[Project 33] Walnut and Cherry TV stand

mattbyington

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Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Messages
797
Hey team,

My wife came up with the design! It's for friends of ours.

The idea is that it's a little bit "modern" with a design on the doors.

So far I've only milled up the doors, we spent all day yesterday playing with different patterns on the doors to find out what we liked. Should be fun!

Matt

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Your idea is interesting Matt, this is just a bit of info on the 2 woods you are using. Black Walnut will lighten and change to a range of dark to light caramel colours with age. Cherry will darken with age to similar tones.  So if a contrast is what you are looking in the project it will be there initially but diminish with age, really noticeable after the first couple of years. If subtle is what you're after use the 2 woods, if bold try a something different than cherry.
 
[member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member] thank you so much for taking the time to write that up! I was looking for a bit more contrast, sounds like I should have used Maple :( or Holly.

oh well ... too late now!! :)

Matt

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It's not entirely too late!  A lot of folks will apply some dye to walnut as part of their finishing schedule.  That would be an option in this case, if you masked the cherry inlay and then applied dye to the walnut that should mitigate some of the aging effects that [member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member] mentions.  Of course, you would need to figure out if that kind of color works for you.

Cool design.
 
[member=59039]mrFinpgh[/member] and [member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member] do either of you have experience with Festool Surfix Heavy Duty Oil/Wax?  I have made several walnut pieces finished with Surfix and I'm not seeing color change that I'm seeing on a number of my walnut cutting boards.  I think [member=44289]JoryBrigham[/member] told me that the heavy duty had UV protection, but it's not even clear that the walnut needs to be exposed to light to change color.

Thanks for any insight.

Rich
 
I haven't used surfix, but from what I recall it's basically a hardwax oil finish. I don't know what you finish your cutting boards with [member=63178]richklein[/member] but I think basically wood changes colors due to oxidation.  For the same reason, you can age cherry by letting it sit out in the sun or you can wash it with lye. So some finish is going to slow that down more than no finish or mineral oil finish.  I think that the sunlight exposure basically accelerates this process, and would guess that if you left your pieces out in the sun for a couple days they would begin to show some signs of fading.

 
I use hard wax oils all the time. The only thing that offers any type of UV protection is a pigmented oil that actually blocks the UV. Any clear oil and you're just pissing in the wind no matter BS the manufacturer says. The fact that most don't know walnut lightens with age and cherry is very deceiving being light when first cut is why I mentioned it in the first place. Anyone working with wood should understand the natural ageing process and study by looking at older pieces. Saves long term disappointments and allows you to use the characteristics for long term design, this is unless you're just making firewood. UV protection or not all woods will colour age over time and its a process thats almost impossible to stop.

As far as sunlight exposure, cherry can show darkening in several hours, not so with Black Walnut. It takes time. Also be careful with maple especially with long term storage of planed product. Exposed ends and sections will noticeably darken just sitting in the shop. These dark section are hard to sand out and often take a light planing to restore an even colouration.
 
[member=30413]mike_aa[/member] thanks!

[member=59039]mrFinpgh[/member] good point thanks I will look into that!

Both doors are done now, finally! Here's a pic.

Now to start on the main carcass.

Matt

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[member=66813]rmhinden[/member] definitely haha and thanks!

[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] for the grooves for the inlays? I used the router! OF1400 with an undersized 1/4" plywood bit from Whiteside!

Matt
 
OOPS, I did not think about that. :) For the groves. I could see using the saw. I have used both on the same grooove in the past. The saw to score and prevent tear out and the router to remove the material. Mounting the router on the rail make that a snap. Great work by the way.
 
[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] makes sense to me! I had the router running on the track while doing these, worked well! They're only 1/4" deep so 1 pass was all it took!
 
Is wood grain running perpendicular to the feet length? It sure looks that way.
 
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