[Project 33] Walnut and Cherry TV stand

[mattbyington]

[member=15585]Svar[/member] yes it is, is that bad? I heard from one other person (I posted this picture my Instagram as well which is @matthewbyington in case anyone is on there, too).

And someone gave me the bad news, too, that this wasn't quite as strong as if I had turned the grain 90 degrees.

Whoops! I guess you live and learn.

Do you think it's bad enough that I should re-do it?

Matt

 

[Svar]

Feet will be brittle. Don't drag the stand over the floor [big grin]. Over long time cracks might develop. It would have been fine for a jewelry box, but not for a TV stand. I would redo it.

 

[mattbyington]

Got it. Thank you [member=15585]Svar[/member] i really appreciate you taking the time to educate me on that!

Matt

 

[Cheese]

With the grain running in that direction, they become cleavage planes when a sudden force is applied as a side load.

I really like the looks of it but as Svar said, better to save that for a jewelry box.

 

[mattbyington]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] got it that makes perfect sense! Appreciate you chiming in!

Great to learn this for the future.

Right now I am in a bit of a holding pattern as I am out of wood I always order from woodworkers source.com and I placed another order for 20 board feet of cherry and 20 board feet of walnut on May 8 but they haven't shipped it yet...

So I hope to make more progress but am waiting on wood...

Matt

 

[Svar]

You can find horizontal feet grain direction on some traditional furniture as shown below, but those feet are wide and short, made of two pieces connected at right angle.

[attachimg=1]

 

[lshah72414]

Am I misunderstanding, are  you guys saying the leg grain should be perpendicular to floor and not parallel?

 

[CeeJay]

The leg grain should be parallel to the long side of the leg.

If you really like the look of the horizontal grain (and it does look nice) you can always consider putting a veneer on but for a curved profile leg that will be hard to achieve a nice look on the outside corner.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lshah72414]

Got it . Thank you

 

[Vondawg]

Matt please don’t add any dye to those pieces Of beautiful walnut, with all that purplish color (usually from a more “air” dried process) let the greatness shine thru.
Nice job!

 

[FestitaMakool]

I think the base look very good!

I do agree that the legs might have a weak point grain going parallel to the floor.
- But it looks good  [wink]

I’m not familiar with working with the same wood as you do over there. Some wood can handle a lot of stress, but usually that means fine grained (or crowded as we say) This looks like it is far in between.

Could drilling in a long and fairly thick round dowel glued like a long tenon almost as long as the feet itself rescue the design?
The dowel wouldn’t be visible either, otherwise you could dadoe in a piece of wood on the rear side as well and glue it in as a part of the (rear) design.

Tried to do a very quick sketch up:

[attachimg=1]

 

[mattbyington]

[member=41086]Vondawg[/member] I won't, promise!

[member=71478]FestitaMakool[/member] that is a great idea!! I have some of the tapered / stepped wood dowels (can't remember the name right now) but that might work super well! Good idea!!

Matt

 

[rvieceli]

[member=67555]mattbyington[/member] Same here no dye or stain on that wood. Looks nice.

I'm actually liking the grain on the legs. I vote for wild and crazy  [eek]

Pull the legs. Split them right down the middle top to bottom down the narrow edge on your band saw. Now take a piece of walnut with the grain vertical and laminate the three pieces together. I'd make the walnut thicker than the stretchers. Shape everything back and re-attach. you will wind up with thicker legs but they should be strong enough.

Ron

 

[FestitaMakool]

What rvieceli says is a good idea!
I presumed you’d glued the legs to the frame - mortise & tendon or Domino perhaps?

Whatever you do, the legs look great as is!
I’m with the no dye or stain group here - But don’t listen too hard, it’s your project! [wink]

 

[junk731]

Matt your legs are fine, what others are missing is that the grain in the curly maple usually runs about 90 degrees to the curl. I use a lot of curly maple and never had an issue. Your weakest point in this case is the connection between the walnut horizontal and the vertical curly maple leg.

 

[mattbyington]

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member] not a bad idea thank you! I'll noodle it....

[member=71478]FestitaMakool[/member] oh yeah those puppies are SUPER glued on 8mm domino through....

[member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member] thanks, that's good information. That connection has an 8 mm domino through it,40mm long.

I'll noodle on it team...thanks... I'll hopefully get some more work and pictures this weekend!

Mr. Fedex informed me yesterday the wood has fINALLY shipped and has a miraculous estimated delivery date of this Saturday (tomorrow) so I may just be able to make progress this long weekend!

Matt

 

[JimD]

Nicely done.  I wouldn't remake the legs.  They look like they are pretty thick and they are not super narrow so that will help despite the non traditional grain orientation.  TVs are also pretty light these days.  My guess is it will be fine.  If somebody light sit on it, then I might remake them.

If you want to get a feel for what it will take to break them you could make one from scrap and hit it with a deadblow.  My guess is you will have difficulty getting it to break.

 

[junk731]

Matt another warning, don't trust super glue with wood. There is an extreme amount of BS surrounding super glues and wood spread by forums like this along with instagram and Youtube super heros. With normal seasonal changes the joints will fracture. Unfortunately found this out the hard way. The glue becomes too hard and brittle, doesn't take even subtle wood movement well. The only place it works good is filling hairline cracks and as a temporary bond used it conjunction with a PVA.

 

[mattbyington]

[member=45813]JimD[/member] thanks man! Yes the legs come from 6/4 stock of solid Cherry, so they are definitely thicker than the other pieces in this build (4/4).

[member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member] I never do! This whole build was Titebond 2. Which is my go-to. I rarely make outdoor furniture so TB3 isn't really needed.

Thanks so much for all the advice everyone!

Matt

 

[Cheese]

Matt another warning, don't trust super glue with wood. There is an extreme amount of BS surrounding super glues and wood spread by forums like this along with instagram and Youtube super heros. With normal seasonal changes the joints will fracture. Unfortunately found this out the hard way. The glue becomes too hard and brittle, doesn't take even subtle wood movement well. The only place it works good is filling hairline cracks and as a temporary bond used it conjunction with a PVA.

For all of these reasons I also quit using super glue for securing magnets in wood. After some time the bond line fractures and the magnet is sitting somewhere else. This becomes a problem if the magnet is used as a hidden latch or as a hidden door opener.  [eek]