PS 300 Jigsaw guard makes accuracy difficult

Phillym

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
13
Hello,

I just picked up the Festool Jigsaw ps300 and tried it out. It seems very difficult to follow a line with the plastic chip guard in place. Has anyone else found this to be true or am I doing something wrong? It cuts great but if you cant use this guard with the tool then I would think about returning it.
 
The chip guard and the splinter guard really do obscure the line you try and cut on.  This is really the only flaw in the Jigsaw's design IMHO.  I end up removing the chip guard about 90% of the time and really only use it if I'm making a relatively straight cut. 

 
A lot of people hang the work off the edge of the table and use the PS 300 from the bottom.

It's pretty hard to do with the PSB. Barrel grips are much easier.

Tom
 
I think most jigsaws with a clear jigsaw guard have this problem. My Metabo has it also, it's impossible to see where you're cutting. I always take the darn thing off.
 
I used to have an older Black & Decker Professional model (green) and it had the clear inserts just like my Festool, and just like my Festool it was impossible to see the juncture of the blade and workpeice.
I started using the downcut blades without the insert to eliminate chipping/splintering.

The Festool, even without the anti-chip insert, has a less than optimal sight line to the blade. But even the Bosch 1591 had the blade set back more than I'd like. With new Festool blades that are super sharp, I just leave the splinter guard insert out, and unless it's cheap plywood, it's been ok.
 
Took the chipguard off and it's just floaiting in the systainer. The splinterguard though I use all the time. Point and shoot.
Wen back to bosch blades too. [embarassed]

Cheers,
Jacques.
 
I have had the same aggravation with the splinter guard and the dust shield.  Has anyone ever found some sort of small flashlight with 2A or 3A batteries and a flexible gooseneck that somehow could be mounted to shoot light in to help you see?
 
I usually have to have the small Maglight  shining into the area of the jigsaw with the blade and plastic plinter guards. I would LOVE it if the jigsaw had a built-in light like  some of my cordless drills.
 
Anymore I mostly use it on the rail with the guide stop.  But it is a pain for cutting curves.  The standard jig saw design is not as easy as the old saber saw (Sawzall®) design; the newer isn't as easy as the old but still easier than the jigsaw.  Basically a design problem of blade visibility.
 
I bought a Festool Trion PS 300 a few years ago after seeing a demonstration of it being held under the work. This way seeing the cut is very easy. Yes, it did take me some time to be confident using my Trion that way. I have been told this is the norm in much of Europe. I also have been told this is the jigsaw approach taught in trade schools there. I find it comfortable and by now natural to support the jigsaw with the palm of my left hand, controlling the blade direction with my right hand. Of course both hands must work together to make the cut. Needless to say, the work is well clamped to a sturdy table before I use the jigsaw.
 
That approah is interesting.  I will have to try it on some scrap.  What do you do about the cutoff dropping on your arms?  If you are cutting thin brittle stock I assume that the sacrificial piece is on top and that you mark it.
 
grobin said:
That approah is interesting.  I will have to try it on some scrap.  What do you do about the cutoff dropping on your arms?  If you are cutting thin brittle stock I assume that the sacrificial piece is on top and that you mark it.

If I am concerned about the size and weight of the cutoff, I will only cut so far, withdraw the blade. Then I will re-clamp so that the already cut portion off the cutoff is supported and clamped.

Usually since the Trion cut going towards the saw, there is no more tear-out with the saw below the work.

However, when I am cutting thin brittle stock I prefer a fixed conventional jigsaw. If I were cutting such material with the PS 300 I would be using a very fine blade.
 
I own an older Festool PS2 jigsaw and, after trying to utilize the plastic chip guard for about half a year, gave up.  I no longer even know where the chip guard is.

I also tried the Trion with a chip guard and found it to be just as difficult.  

Cutting upside down does work for me, but I am not as good doing that as I would like to be.

I do use my Festool jig saw quite a lot and, for the most part, do not find the lack of dust control to be  a problem.
 
i no longer have the dust cover/guard

ive tried upside down but need more practice
 
One thing that helps when cutting upside down is to pull the saw. When cutting on top, most people push it.

Tom
 
Tom Bellemare said:
One thing that helps when cutting upside down is to pull the saw. When cutting on top, most people push it.

Tom

Tom, you are absolutely correct about pulling the saw when using it below the work. Pulling the saw in this case is like pushing the work through a bandsaw or fixed table jigsaw.
 
Well then, that takes about all the reason of buying a Festool Jigsaw out of the purchasing decision, doesn't it?

I've had two of the Trions - sold them both and bought the Bosch.  If you're not going to get decent dust collection, than you might as well gain the benfits of auto-indexing side blade buards.  On the Bosch, you simply press a button and the side guards automatically grip the blade.  On the Trions, you have to individually set each guide every time you change to a thinner or thicker blade.

Of course I realize that most folks here like their tools to match though....

Julian
 
The dust collection works great upside down and you can see the cut line perfectly.

Tom
 
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