Question: Cutting curves in plywood using a TS 55

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Jan 20, 2009
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Context: I plan on building a boat some day not too far off using Stitch and Glue techniques.
One of the things I've read and seen on videos is using a circular saw to cut curves in plywood. It provides better results than a jigsaw (fairer lines and the edges are more square to the face).

My question: Is it possible to perform the same gentle curved cuts with a TS 55?

I've hunted all over (here and on Google) and only found one brief thread somewhere else that indicated it was not a good idea with a plunge saw but no reason as to why nor any real indication of the results.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Are you talking about bending the material around the frame?  Or are you talking about following a curved line?  If it's the first, I think a TS55 would work.
 
I would think trying to follow a curved line would risk severe kick back. What am I missing?
 
You can't cut inner radiuses.

Outer radiuses... still no, but you can approximate it by cutting a 128-cornered piece instead of a circle. But still; why...?
 
I'd rather cut it rough with jigsaw or some other way and follow with router and a curve template.
 
Christopher Fitch said:
Context: I plan on building a boat some day not too far off using Stitch and Glue techniques.
One of the things I've read and seen on videos is using a circular saw to cut curves in plywood. It provides better results than a jigsaw (fairer lines and the edges are more square to the face).

My question: Is it possible to perform the same gentle curved cuts with a TS 55?

I've hunted all over (here and on Google) and only found one brief thread somewhere else that indicated it was not a good idea with a plunge saw but no reason as to why nor any real indication of the results.

It's doable.  A plunge saw wouldn't be my first choice because you have to keep the saw pushed down while cutting vs a regular circular saw.  There are saw blades specifically made for cutting radii with a circular saw.  They work well freehand or with a trammel arm.http://www.arcusblade.com/

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Svar said:
I'd rather cut it rough with jigsaw or some other way and follow with router and a curve template.
I think you would still have to finish the edges with a plane if you cut with any saw.  Our forefathers used to have curved soles on their planes to work on concave surfaces and spoke shaves etc.  Table saws have anti kickback pawls to reduce the risk of wearing your timber as a permanent  attachment.  How much more at risk is the user with a plunge saw?  I'm with you, I would feel safer using a jigsaw/band saw following up with a template guided router finish.  Mind you, it is a very nice feeling to joint two surfaces by hand and see nothing other than the grain changes with no line to speak of.  You have got to have some imperfections to permit space for the glue to find purchase  ;D
 
The person in the boat video is rocking the saw table in and out of the cut to help forward momentum.  That action would be difficult ultra to impossible with a plunge cutting saw.  If you insist on using a circular saw, buy a regular non plunge type.  I would even recommend the worm drive style, as they have more torque, which will help with the curves, but I'm biased as I was raised on worm drives.
 
Christopher Fitch said:
My question: Is it possible to perform the same gentle curved cuts with a TS 55?

I've hunted all over (here and on Google) and only found one brief thread somewhere else that indicated it was not a good idea with a plunge saw but no reason as to why nor any real indication of the results.

I think the only real problem is the riving knife on the TS will restrict your movement. Other than that, once the TS is plunged to the desired depth, what's the functional difference between it and a conventional circ saw?

Here's a bluestone patio I did several years ago. All the stone is from 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" thick. The curved edging cuts were made using a Milwaukee worm gear saw with a diamond blade.
 

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