Question for you tile experts.

R

rjwz28

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I want to add tile to the front part of my alcove bathtub that I'm replacing. I'm thinking to make a false front and then tile up the front until it is below the height of the tub. I don't know how to finish where it joins to the tub to make it water tight. Any ideas?

Thanks to all beforehand.
 
Here we typically waterproof a tub with a special bathroom caulk, it's a silicone caulk that's mildew resistant.

You tile all the way up to the tub, leaving just a thin joint that you fill with caulk.

[attachimg=1]
 
Alex,

In a drawing such as shown is the wood framing attached to the tub or is it actually attached to walls at the end?  Are tubs usually a composite or cast iron?

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Alex,

In a drawing such as shown is the wood framing attached to the tub or is it actually attached to walls at the end?  Are tubs usually a composite or cast iron?

Peter
Click to expand...

Peter, there are so many variations possible that it's hard to answer your question. Tubs can be cast iron, composite, porcelain or plastic. A lot of them are self supporting but others sit on a metal, wooden or stone structure around it. You have free standing tubs and tubs that are built along a wall. Everything is possible. I think that in most cases where a tub is built along a wall, the surrounding structure is firmly connected to the wall.

I'm not very knowledgeable about installing the bath tub itself as I never done one so I never delved into it. I only know that I've done enough tiling jobs to know the general way for final waterproving over here is with a flexible silicone caulk that's mildew resistant. First you tile all around the area and make sure that's completely waterproof, and then close up the final seams with a flexible caulk. If you don't use a flexible caulk cracks will appear over time because of the movement of walls and floor.
 
Alex's image is the correct process but it is going to be difficult to execute. I am assuming from your drawing the front of your tub has a finished apron front and not meant for this application. Whether its cast iron or acrylic i dont believe your caulk joint between the tile and tub will hold up over time. Too much movement will occur between the two. Additionally the front of tubs are rarely flat which will complicate your project.

I recommend you get a different tub of different approach. If you do decide to go this route be sure to also caulk your tile substrate to the tub before you tile. I would use a polyurethane caulk or Kerdi Fix (Kerdi fix might just be poly) under the tile. I also recommend something more water tight than cement board in that location.  
 
Are you sure you want to add the additional distance to step over when exiting the wet tub? You will lose about 4 1/2" of floor space also. If I was really set on doing this and not going to buy a new tub I would cut the front skirt off and inset the new knee wall. The cement board would be KerdiBoard or Wedi the top covered with the waterproof board also. The top should be pitched slightly, away from the tub. The tile transition from vertical to horizontal would be Schulter Jolly. Make sure the tub is full of water while caulking, do not drain for a few hours after completing the caulking..

Tom
 
Are you sure you want to add the additional distance to step over when exiting the wet tub? You will lose about 4 1/2" of floor space also. If I was really set on doing this and not going to buy a new tub I would cut the front skirt off and inset the new knee wall. The cement board would be KerdiBoard or Wedi the top covered with the waterproof board also. The top should be pitched slightly, away from the tub. The tile transition from vertical to horizontal would be Schulter Jolly. Make sure the tub is full of water while caulking, do not drain for a few hours after completing the caulking..
Click to expand...

Great suggestions!
 
I just finished a pretty big install of Kerdi in my shower, and I can tell you that you do not want to use Kerdi Fix as a caulk.  The product is more of an adhesive than anything else, and can be used to seal around protruding pipes for valves or heads.  It is very sticky and you won't get it to tool to a clean transition very well.  I used a Bostik caulk around my tub that was 100% silicone (that is the key for the sealing to be as effective as possible around the tub), and made specifically for tub/shower/bath situations.

The John Bridge forum is quite helpful, and I was able to find a ton of help over there.
 
Good point Dan. I should clarify what i suggested. I too would recommend against using Kerdi Fix as a tile caulking. I was suggesting using it as a sealant below the tile between the tub and the tile backer, not as a final caulk joint. 
 
Best to ask the guys at the John Bridge Forum...although they will tell you to get a different tub.

Alex's drawing will work well if its a steel tub and you mount the frame securely.  

The only change I would consider are the following:
Slope the top seal with the substrate
Use Treated 2x4
Lift bottom 2x4 a 1/4" from floor 
Use 1/2 Hardie.  
Lift hardie 1/4" from Floor
Tape seems.
Silicone hardie Seam at tub
Use Liquid membrane on hardie
Silicone Seam at tub and tile.

Remember to use silicone at changes of plane.....so that means at the bottom of the tub wall and the transition from the seal to tub wall.
 
- Tile should be run under the lip of the tub NOT up against at the outer rim. Running the tile up against the tub flange creates a vertical caulk seam that will fail over time and allow water into the wall. Running the tile under the flange eliminates the seam. If you slightly slope the tile ledge outward the water has no place to go besides away from the tube and down the wall area.
- Depending on your usage expectations you could install a waterproof membrane or not. 1st floor bathroom with not that much use, save the money. Primary bathtub that will get used a lot to wash the little kids, membrane would probably be worth it.
- durock, densarmor, kerdi board will all work; you couldn't pay me enough to use a Hardie product on a job; total crap designed to fail
- love the Schluter membrane but Noble also makes a very nice membrane; they also make nice floor drains at better prices than others
- depending on how you build this front you may want to use one of the Schluter edge profiles between the fiberglass and tile, this can provide a much cleaner and more stable joint than just caulk
 
Thanks everyone for your tips. It seems like my biggest problem will be the movement issue that will make the seal fail over time.

I don't have the tub yet and I'm still looking for a tub which has the 3 lips on the wall sides (alcove) so I can tile over the edges and a removable front "skirt" which will let me tile under the lip instead. Anyone know who makes one like that? That would solve my problem right there.

Thanks,
Rob
 
This would be ideal. If I can find a tub like this, I'll do it this way! Any leads?

thanks
 
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