Questions about planning my first built in

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Kodi Crescent

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Aug 6, 2010
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Hi.  I'm thinking about building some built-in bookcases for my house.  I've never built a case before, except for some closet organizers made from melamine.  The trim in my house is paint-grade, so I'd expect that any built-ins would be painted to match.

I'm a bit puzzled on how to start.  Since this bookcase will be resting on the floor, do you cut out the carpet where it will sit?

When you build a built-in bookcase, how do you handle the baseboard?  Do you butt it to the case, wrap it around the case, or something else?

The case I'm thinking of building is in an aisleway in a finished attic.  My attic has walk up stairs, and right next to the stairs and between the knee wall there is this 27" aisle.  The aisle is about 9' long.  Other than just stacking stuff up in this area, I figured it would be a good place to build a case for holding stereo equipment and for holding some books.

My plan is to build a 16" deep x 27" wide x 60" high case for the stereo stuff.  I'd then run all the wiring and such into an attic scuttleway to the side so that the wiring was neat.  I'd access this case by walking straight to the end of the aisle and face it straight on.

For the remaining 8' or so, and perpendicular to the stereo case, I was planning on having a 7" deep x 60" high bookcase.
I know 7" isn't much, but since I'll only have 20" of clearance left, I figured that this was the deepest I could go and still have some access to the end of the aisle.

Since everything is paint grade, I'm not sure which materials to choose, or which thickness.  And since this will have to be painted, I'm not sure if this should have a back panel.  Any advice on materials, backings, cutting the carpet, baseboards, or anything else?

Thanks!
 
I would roll the carpet up and get it out of the way.  Then after I built the unit, have a carpet guy come in and refit the carpet to fit the room.  Remove the carpet for the future if you remove the carpet and install hard wood flooring. 

With the base board, if you have a multi-tool, you can cut the base out where you plan on building your cabinets. 

I have built a couple book cases with 3/4" MDF with very good results.  MDF is great for paint grade cabinets.  Just keep all screws an inch from the edges.
And use OIL base primer before painting with a water base paint.  A water base primer can make the MDF swell up.  And use Plywood for your shelving. 

Hope this helps you out.

Eric
 
Kodi Crescent said:
 The trim in my house is paint-grade, so I'd expect that any built-ins would be painted to match.
Most build-ins are painted the same as the trim

I'm a bit puzzled on how to start.  Since this bookcase will be resting on the floor, do you cut out the carpet where it will sit?
I would

When you build a built-in bookcase, how do you handle the baseboard?  Do you butt it to the case, wrap it around the case, or something else?
That would depend on the design.I like to use the baseboard to wrap around.Gives it a "built-in" look but it's up to you.

Since everything is paint grade, I'm not sure which materials to choose, or which thickness.  And since this will have to be painted, I'm not sure if this should have a back panel.  Any advice on materials, backings, cutting the carpet, baseboards, or anything else?
Since it's paint grade,i would use MDF with poplar as a hard wood for faceframe and/or edging.Easy to work with and easy on your tools.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Kodi,  Richard makes a good point.    I also own maybe 5 or 6 built-in books along with a number or trim books.  They help a lot.  Worth checking out.  And, if you're up for a field trip.  Run up to this place they call a library and check out some books if you don't want to spend the coin all the books.
 
Make a 2x4 framework that is the same size as the footprint of your piece. Put pocket hole screws along the entire interior and get some 2 1/2" pocket screws and go through the carpet and into the floor. Also screw framework to any studs available with Cabinet screws. Shim accordingly and take your time getting the framework dead nuts level. If your base is tall then the framework, layer ply accordingly so it will line up where you want it on your lower rail.

Use 3/4 shop grade ply for the carcasses and 1/4 anything for the backer. The backer will keep the piece from moving around on you. Put screw strips behind the backer in desired locations that you are gonna screw through. Use poplar on faceframes and maple on doors and drawers.

Draw a scaled diagram to make sure everything will line up. If you have them, lay a domino at the top and bottom of each piece of the carcass for registration and lay pocket screws in between every six inches. If the sides will be seen only domino, but for top and bottom and a lot of sides no one will ever see pocket holes. Taunton Press makes a built in book that i learned a lot from. Befriending the Beadboard King helps too, Eric
 
Guys, MDF for cabinet construction? I thought we were trying to help this guy out? The book i reccomended is the same one everyone else is talking about. Buy immediately. Eric
 
ericbuggeln said:
Guys, MDF for cabinet construction? I thought we were trying to help this guy out? The book i reccomended is the same one everyone else is talking about. Buy immediately. Eric
Click to expand...
YES MDF!  There's nothing wrong with it.
 
Mastercabman, Ive just never heard of it being used for cab construction, although it would be perfect for the 1/4' backer. If you have one of the Festool routers with edge guides, that works for dadoes to except the backer. Some MDF in my area, you have to make one pass and then another at 1/32 to get it to fit on standard 1/4' bits, so do a test on scrap before you break out the glue. Eric
 
Thanks for the advice everyone!  I bought the book recommended, so I'll go through that and see what other bits I can glean from it.

Thanks again!
 
Kody if you want Idea's then you gotta buy Taunton's Built-Ins idea book. Awesome for inspiration.
thx
Lambeater
 
Kodi:
If you can draw out your plan either on grid paper or in Sketchup I think you will find that a lot of questions will get resolved. Having a plan is also good if you want to communicate your ideas to your partner. Sometimes we think we have explained ourselves or even think we have solved a problem in our own mind but have introduced new problems.

I am surprised no one has mentioned Kreg's series on Making Built-ins Part 1

If you watch his videos and read his posts here you will get some good info.
Good luck.
Tim
 
ericbuggeln said:
Mastercabman, Ive just never heard of it being used for cab construction, although it would be perfect for the 1/4' backer. If you have one of the Festool routers with edge guides, that works for dadoes to except the backer. Some MDF in my area, you have to make one pass and then another at 1/32 to get it to fit on standard 1/4' bits, so do a test on scrap before you break out the glue. Eric
Click to expand...
MDF makes a good back but also sides!(and top,and bottom...)
As for using a router for the dado,you can use a 8mm bit.I like to use a down cut spiral bit.
 
Had the same dilemma with a project I did last summer, and my solution was to hang the thing from the wall with a couple of french cleats. Looks better with the books...

[attachthumb=#]
 
Cabman, does the downward spiral cut better or clear the dust up to the DC better? Or both? I wish i could get better dust collection on dadoes. If you were gonna do a 1/2" deep dado, how many passess would you make? Router table? Or OF1400 if you have it?
 
My two cents....

  When I use my OF1400 for dado's I work left to right.  I start with a plunge on the left side of the work piece about and inch from the edge.  This prevents the dust from shooting out and allowing the vac to suck up the dust.  Once I finish the length of the work piece I just go back dado the edge.  I have done dado's and rabbits on MDF for a lot of projects with great DC on the OF1400 using a standard router bit.  I would like to try some spiral bits.

Eric
 
ericbuggeln said:
Cabman, does the downward spiral cut better or clear the dust up to the DC better? Or both? I wish i could get better dust collection on dadoes. If you were gonna do a 1/2" deep dado, how many passess would you make? Router table? Or OF1400 if you have it?
Click to expand...
The down cut bit gives me a clean cut on melamine.As for dust,it's ok(with my 1010).You can get good result with a straight bit on other material.
If i was making 1/2" dado with my router i would do it with a least 2 passes.depending on how wide the bit is and material.
I use a router table for small pieces,but large/long panels i use hand held router with an edge guide.
I do not have the 1400..............yet :)
 
The OF1400 edge guide has its own dust port or you can use the router supplied dust port. I found that the one that came with the router works better and the edge guide ones port is a little too big for the D27, so it regularly falls out??? I thought maybe the poor dust collection was bc i was not taking enough passes, but im doing what youre doing. Same hing on the router table, but i did just realize that i was using the smallest insert ring possible and that if i used a bigger one, it might colect more efficiently, Eric
 
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