Quick Domino Question: Table Aprons

Another way to look at this issue is to ask why those craftsmen who made real M&T joints also added corner blocks.  Corner blocks also provide a structural backup in case the primary [M&T] joint happens to work loose, e.g. glue failure.  If you want to go "all the way" use dovetailed corner blocks.  I typically route [dado] a 1/4" groove on the inside of the aprons and corner blocks of table that I make and use these grooves with shop-made L-shaped blocks of hardwood scraps to fasten the table tops to the aprons and the corner blocks with screws.  That allows the top to float relative to the legs and aprons yet also serves to further distribute any loading.  Part of any twisting load on any leg, e.g. when someone pushes a table to move it, is transferred through the corner blocks to the top and to the apron railings joined to any leg rather than having to be carried entirely by the M&T joints and the fastners holding the aprons to the top.

Dave R.
 
Everyone,
Thanks for offering such great advice.  All of this is useful for general knowledge, not only regarding the Domino.
I am curious to see how the Domino would hold up from real-use racking forces.  But perhaps I ought to test it on something other than a microwave cart in my kitchen.

For tables I've made for friends, I used those metal corner braces, the ones with a hole in the center that accept a hanger bolt and are secured using grooves routed into the aprons.
[attachimg=1]

Of course, those are just for knock-down assemblies.

Matthew
 
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