Quick onsite repair with the Domino

[bill-e]

While moving my daughter into her new place I noticed that the top of one of the end tables (pre Domino) I made was curling.  Upon closer inspection I noticed it was because one board was definitely cut too close to the pith to be used for a table top and I only used 4 "buttons" to attach the top.. 

I removed the top and laid it on its face in the sun for a few hours and it returned to an almost flat condition.  I reassembled the table and they set up their living room.

The next day I returned with my Domino in hand and a few of the "buttons" I use to attach the tops.  I strategically plunged 4 more mortises for the additional buttons.  Now even if the top does want to move with the seasonal humidity changes I think I've got it secure enough to stay in place.

I've used the Domino more than once on fully assembled tables when I forgot or missed a button location.  My old method of using a router for the mortises made fixing my errors a bit more difficult.

Here's an example of the buttons.

 

[tvgordon]

Bill,
That is a good idea.  I am building an entertainment center and I might use your idea to fasten the solid wood top to the base.
Would there be any harm in attaching the top solid to the front of the base and allow it to float on the back and sides?  That way the top would always overhang the front the same amount regardless of humidity changes.

Tom.

 

[bill-e]

Tom, IMO that would work fine as long as you have enough room for all the movement in the back.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

And assuming that long grain is affixed to long grain, and long grain is not affixed to cross-grain.
Dave R.

 

[Lou Miller]

Bill,

Just curious, but did you ever give any thought to simply just using dominos tenons for your buttons? I haven't done it yet, but I'm about ready to wrap up a set of tables (coffee table and two end tables). I'm thinking about just using 10 mm dominos with a hole in them and the widest setting on the tool to allow for seasonal movement. I've still got a bunch of the Festool 10mm dominos left from when I bought the tools since I don't use that size much. I'm just lazy and don't feel like making the buttons. My aprons are 1/3/4" thick, so I'll probably just make a full (28mm) plunge into the aprons.

 

[bill-e]

Lou,

I'd love to do something easier but I cant picture what you're describing.  How do you elevate the domino off the tabletop?

 

[Lou Miller]

I haven't done it yet Bill, I'm just basically wondering out loud. I'd do the exact same thing that you did, except the domino would be in place of the button. I'd make the hole for the screw as close as possible to the apron. With the domino going into the apron 28mm, I wouldn't be concerned over it moving or wanting to pull out of the mortise.

Its probably a silly idea on my part. I'm going to try it anyway. If it works, great. If not, I'll just stop being lazy and make some buttons.

 

[Jerry Work]

Hi Lou,

This will work but you are relying on the projecting tenon to place enough tension on the held member to keep it from moving.  As you tighten these down it will tend to squirt your skirt off line.  If you want to do this, simply cut a piece to fit under the tenon (make it the slightly thiner than the distance between the bottom of the mortise and the edge of the skirt).  That will support the tenon where it projects out beyond the skirt and give purchase to your screw going into the under side of the top.  That said, doing so is just as hard if not harder than using your router to cut a step in a long piece of scrap, then slicing those into the tongues as shown in the photos posted.

Jerry

I haven't done it yet Bill, I'm just basically wondering out loud. I'd do the exact same thing that you did, except the domino would be in place of the button. I'd make the hole for the screw as close as possible to the apron. With the domino going into the apron 28mm, I wouldn't be concerned over it moving or wanting to pull out of the mortise.

Its probably a silly idea on my part. I'm going to try it anyway. If it works, great. If not, I'll just stop being lazy and make some buttons.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I'm with Jerry on this one.  I occasionally make a small box of table top fasteners buttons by dadoing the ends of several pieces of scrap from different wood species, then drilling (at a slight angle to facilitate assembly) and countersinking a bunch of holes corresponding to individual buttons, then X-cutting the group of buttons and ripping them into individual buttons.  I do much the same to make wood plugs for countersunk screws.  Then when I need a few, I simply dig them out of my stocks.  This saves me a lot of setup time.

Dave R.

 

[Warrior]

This is easier.
You could cut a domino mortise in a block then the apron. Insert the apropriate tenon and screw through the block.
Argh... I wish my writing skills could actually convey my thought process.

 

[Eli]

No, that makes total sense Eiji.

So the tenon (domino) is loose, the block has a mortise in it and is screwed to the top, the tenon joins the block and the apron, which has another mortise. The Eiji button.

 

[Lou Miller]

I ended up having to do just what you guys were saying. I just made some 1/2" thick blocks and inserted them between the table top and the domino, then just ran the screws through both the dominos and the blocks. I was just trying to be lazy, I should have just made some buttons... Oh well...

 

[Warrior]

Eli,
I like the Eiji button ;D