Rail connectors - 2xTSO vs. TSO+Makita vs. Festool+Makita

[Kpp80202]

I've been lurking around the discussions about the best way to connect rails accurately for long rips, and am not sure what the collective common wisdom is. I've seen posts talking about one TSO and one Makita connector being great, but am not sure if that's better than two TSO connectors or two of the newer self-aligning Festool connectors (not sure if made by TSO under license), or one Festool with the Makita. Any input? Thanks!

 

[GregorHochschild]

I am also interested to hear about this particularly for the new Festool connectors. I have the TSO connectors and never used the old Festool version (or the Makita version). The TSO connectors might be better than the old Festool version but I still find it a pain to connect rails with constant checking, reconnecting etc. Now I am just ripping on a cabinet saw with much better results in terms of speed and accuracy. Yes, handling the sheets when they are full size is difficult.

If I would make another attempt at ripping with the track saw and rails I would try the following options: 1) Figure out whether new Festool or Makita work better and more reliably. Some have good experience with this. I never got to that point. 2) I forgot the name but there is this product that really seems to make a difference for about $100 (someone will mention the name). Probably I would try that. 3) Buy a longer rail if you can store it.

 

[Koamolly]

https://betterleytools.com/products/straight-line-connector-for-aligning-track-saw-rails.html

 

[Kpp80202]

https://betterleytools.com/products/straight-line-connector-for-aligning-track-saw-rails.html

That looks like a cool accessory.

 

[GregorHochschild]

https://betterleytools.com/products/straight-line-connector-for-aligning-track-saw-rails.html

That looks like a cool accessory.

Yes, that is the product I was thinking about. If I had to connect rails, I would give it a try. I am not convinced anymore that the rail connectors alone would give me a good user experience. Good results might be possible but in my experience it's a pain with constant rechecking etc.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I'm slightly interested in this too. Are the new Festool ones as good as the TSO?
I have 2 of the older version and don't like them at all. I haven't used them at all since I got the longer rails, but I do have a project coming up at home where I need to make some longer cuts. I don't really want to transport the 3000 rail. Connecting the 1900 and 1400 will do it though.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I’ve always used the old-style Festool connectors. I junked the original slot-head grub screws and replaced them with hex-heads tightened with an Allen key. A set of connectors stays permanently fixed to a 1400mm rail, so there’s only 4 screws to tighten when joining up to another 1400mm or an 800mm for shorter rips. Alignment? Lie the rails on your sheet and butt up to an 1800mm Stabila spirit level. Simple - and already on the van.

It doesn’t matter how much you want to over-complicate this - a reference straight-edge is the only thing I’d personally trust.

 

[Rumlak]

I have one of the Betterley straightline connectors and it works great.  Fast and easy to use. Rails are always straight. Granted I need to carry around another tool, but I find it way easier and more accurate than trying to hold my rails against a level while tightening the screws.  Never used the TSO connectors, so I can't compare.

 

[Coen]

Might also depend on where you live. Where I am... a 3000 rail is only 4.5x as expensive as the TSO connectors... in the USA that is 8x?

I use the older Festool connectors, simply because I didn't think it was worth it the enormous expense for the others. Maybe I will get the newer style Festools. But I really want a 3000 rail, but storage is a PITA then...

 

[Cheese]

I’ve used the TSO product since it was released. It works well, but be aware there are 2 versions out there, old style and new style.

The other consideration is the new Festool connector. It’s functionally similar to the Mafell rail connector which, without a doubt, is the best method out there.

One final thought, the TSO lock down screws have a large base on the bottom to help prevent denting the aluminum rail. That’s the reason Festool used shallow screw driver slots on their lock down screws, to prevent excessive torque from being applied.

 

[Kpp80202]

The other consideration is the new Festool connector. It’s functionally similar to the Mafell rail connector which, without a doubt, is the best method out there.

I didn't realize the new Festool connector was different than the TSO. Or that there were two different TSO variations. I'll have to look into those to see what the differences are.

 

[Kpp80202]

It looks like two of the new Festool connectors would be a great solution since they adjust first to the slot width and then to the slot depth. Seems nearly fool proof. And only $45 a pair.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The 3000 rail is fantastic, but mostly because I am in a static situation with huge workspace to move in.
For mobile use, I would probably go with a couple of 1400s or maybe a 1900, if there was a safe way to store it.
The denting thing is exactly why I quit using the Festool connectors. As it is now, I don't need to connect rails at work, so it's not a big priority. Sometime this spring/summer though, the need will come up at home.

 

[mino]

Accuracy:
======
#1
- Makita + Makita + Calibration against an engineer's straight edge (DIN Class 1 or better/equivalent) or against a 3rd rail

#2
- (New) Festool + Makita
- TSO + Makita
- (New) Festool/set

#3
- TSO + TSO
  = the can be position is never trully precise, the distance of the two tracks between various rails varies ever so slightly, partially mitigated by screwing the bottom/guiding connector first

#4
- Old Festool + Old Festool + Calibration against an engineer's straight edge (DIN Class 1 or better/equivalent) or against a 3rd rail
  = after some time the calibrations get slightly "off" as the connector screws non-uniformly creates bends in the rails which then affect the tightening

Rail damage/denting/bending:
===================
#1
- Makita + Makita + Calibration against an engineer's straight edge (DIN Class 1 or better/equivalent) or against a 3rd rail

#2
- (New) Festool + Makita / do not over-tighten the Festool as it can "spread" the track /

#3
- TSO + Makita
- TSO + TSO

#9 *)
- (New) Festool/set
- Old Festool + Old Festool + Calibration against an engineer's straight edge (DIN Class 1 or better/equivalent) or against a 3rd rail

Ease of use:
========
#1
- TSO + TSO

#2
- (New) Festool/set

#3
- TSO + Makita  /the hex drivers are different .. otherwise would be #1/

#4
- (New) Festool + Makita    /the hex drivers are different .. otherwise would be #1/

#5
- Makita + Makita + Calibration against an engineer's straight edge (DIN Class 1 or better/equivalent) or against a 3rd rail

#6
- Old Festool + Old Festool + Calibration against an engineer's straight edge (DIN Class 1 or better/equivalent) or against a 3rd rail

=================================================
Disclosure: I have the Old and New Festool, Makita, and am well familiar in how the TSO ones work.

*) indicates I consider this option unacceptable/BAD, other are just better/worse

 

[mino]

It looks like two of the new Festool connectors would be a great solution since they adjust first to the slot width and then to the slot depth. Seems nearly fool proof. And only $45 a pair.

Not entirely so.
The second connector still, unfortunately, dents the rails and does not really adjust the "vertical" at all. All alignment is done by the first connector - and it is done very well.

Just wish TSO sold theirs also as a set, second connector not being self-aligning. Or for Makita to change their screws, so they have the same hex as the TSO/Festool does. Or Festool doing the same by adopting the Makita design for the second connector.

For now, I plan to solve this by re-threading our Makita connectors to accept bigger screws. The 2mm hex is too small for the forces desired anyway.

 

[Kpp80202]

Mino--excellent posts, and exactly what I was looking for (and more). Thank you!

 

[mino]

Mino--excellent posts, and exactly what I was looking for (and more). Thank you!

I would advise to still get the Festool set at least in one quantity - get it in the set with the adjustable square. The set price is such you pretty much get the systainer and the connectors for free. And the self-aligning one is a very very good/inventive design as it is both extremely strong, non-denting and easy to use.

Just as I wrote it, I realized an even better setup:

Buy:
2x (New) Festool set + 1x TSO set + 1x Makita set

Use:
2x New Festool(self-guiding) + TSO
  => same hex, slight damage to rail not a concern on the secondary track as the TSO is not strong-enough to over-ride the Festool alignment one
1x Makita + Makita
  => use for some rails to be semi-permanently joined
2x Festool non-guiding pieces
  => use for things to attach to non-FS tracks

I was about to order one more Makita set and try to re-thread them - would be a real pain to boot due to the small space involved.
But after thinking about it, I will get a TSO set and pair it with the Festool self-guiding one for my "go-to" connecting set.

This will allow me to use my Makita set for permanently connecting my 1400+376 for rips, where a straight edge and the 2mm hex do not bother me. And I will likely get a second Festool connectors set down the line as well.

Simples. Right ?
[big grin]

 

[Coen]

Mino--excellent posts, and exactly what I was looking for (and more). Thank you!

I would advise to still get the Festool set at least in one quantity - get it in the set with the adjustable square. The set price is such you pretty much get the systainer and the connectors for free. And the self-aligning one is a very very good/inventive design as it is both extremely strong, non-denting and easy to use.
[...]
2x Festool non-guiding pieces
  => use for things to attach to non-FS tracks

Yes, the set seems to be prices decently. But what do you need connectors for for 'non-FS tracks'??

Also; you forgot the section 'costs'. The Festool ones are probably more expensive in the USA than in Europe while the TSO is insanely more expensive here. The Festool can be bought almost everywhere, often from stock, for

 

[mino]

Yes, the set seems to be prices decently. But what do you need connectors for for 'non-FS tracks'??
...

MFT fixtures, etc. etc. The tracks are same so I usually find uses for the rail-denting connectors. I would never buy them for it, but it is not a total waste either. See about $5 value in a "denting" connector, give-take.