Rail Connectors

[Caboose]

I was lucky enough to get the TS55 kit for my birthday.  I'm new to woodworking and I'm planning on making some cabinets for my garage. I am about to order an additional 55" track to couple with the one that came with the saw so I can rip 4'x8' sheet goods.  Will I need two rail connectors or just one?

Also,
I saw this video, and am planning on copying his design (pockethole screws), but I think I want to use plywood instead of MDF due to strength.  I don't have any experience with pocketholes and mdf but I am skeptical.  I would like to do MDF for its paintability.  Any suggestions?
The cabinets will be for tools etc and will neet to be able to take some abuse. 

Building my Garage Cabinets

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new TS 55. You'll need two connectors to join rails.

 

[RC]

You might want to consider getting the 1900 (76"?) track instead of the 1400 (55") one as many on this board have suggested in other threads. If I've understood the reasoning behind opting for the longer rail it gives you that needed little extra lenght when cross cutting a full sheat of ply to have enough rail for the saw to plunge before the ply and exit the ply on the other side while still on the rail to avoid kickback on entry & deflection at exit.

Also since you are building cabinets you might want to consider getting the "holy rail" i.e. The FS1400/2-LR32 rail (or its longer sibling) which is otherwise identical to the standard rail but has a row of indexing holes in it to use with the LR32 European style shelf hole drilling system with a Festool router (either the OF1010 or the OF1400). The rail is only a bit more expensive than the standard one but saves you purchasing another rail in the future if you ever need to drill shelf pin holes every 32mm or install European style door hinges.

Br. Reiska

 

[ccarrolladams]

Say, Caboose, which "kit" do you mean?

Festool cat 496 657 "Guide Rail Accessory Kit" includes 2 of the cat 482 107 Guide Rail Connectors.

That part number is only one connector per package, because the original Festool guide rails only needed a single connector.

If you did not buy the rail accessory kit, the connectors are sold by dealers.

 

[jonathan-m]

Like Reiska said, get the 1900 rail instead of the 1400 and save yourself some trouble later on down the road.

 

[Vindingo]

I was lucky enough to get the TS55 kit for my birthday.  I'm new to woodworking and I'm planning on making some cabinets for my garage. I am about to order an additional 55" track to couple with the one that came with the saw so I can rip 4'x8' sheet goods.  Will I need two rail connectors or just one?

Also,
I saw this video, and am planning on copying his design (pockethole screws), but I think I want to use plywood instead of MDF due to strength.  I don't have any experience with pocketholes and mdf but I am skeptical.  I would like to do MDF for its paintability.  Any suggestions?
The cabinets will be for tools etc and will neet to be able to take some abuse. 

If they are garage cabinets, why not just butt joint and face screw the plywood.?  Adding pocket holes one by one seems like it will add considerable amount of time, with no added benefit.  You can either bondo the screw holes on the last cabinet, or add a finished panel screwed from the inside.  MDF doors will give you that smooth surface, and plywood boxes will save a bunch of weight. 

Good luck, and have fun with your new toys!     

 

[Caboose]

OK, I'll get the 1900, plus this will allow me to make diaganol cuts in the future as well.  Thanks

First let me say this, I have little to no experience.  I've studied woodworking over the past year by reading and watching internet videos.  So what I have to say comes from no shop experience.  That will change as I finally have a garage now and am in the process of setting up my shop. 

I wanted to use pocketholes because face screwing into the end grain of plywood isn't as strong as pocketholes where the screw bites into the face grain.  Plus time isn't that big of an issue for me now.  I enjoy spending time in the garage and just want to make a nice set of cabinets.  I plan on doing a sketchup post once I get a better idea of what I am going to build and where.  I do like the idea of plywood boxes with mdf doors.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Kev]

For a bit of fun, have a search for the chaos wall topics on here.

 

[RONWEN]

Caboose, Very nicely done project and a great video - you have talent. 
Even though the HVLP spray guns produce very little over-spray I'm not sure I would have trusted my white van parked adjacent to the spray booth.  [scared] 
Keep up the great work!

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Caboose -- welcome to the forum and congrats on your new saw -- you are going to love it!  Also, what a great way to break into woodworking starting with the highest quality tools -- believe me, you will save money in the long run without have to replace things and constantly upgrade.  I echo other comments on the rail size -- it is a good thing in my opinion to try and get separate size rails whenever you buy them -- that way you will have the most convenient length for whatever it is you are cutting.  If you are going to be doing a lot of sheet goods, then you may find that a 2700 or 3000 rail makes sense instead of breaking down and setting up two rails with connectors.  The connectors work great, by the way and as Shane indicated, you need two per connection.  There are also some posts on how to properly connect them so everything lines up -- a couple of different methods that work well.

Let us know what other questions you have and congrats again!

Scot

 

[Steve R]

OK, I'll get the 1900, plus this will allow me to make diaganol cuts in the future as well.  Thanks

First let me say this, I have little to no experience.  I've studied woodworking over the past year by reading and watching internet videos.  So what I have to say comes from no shop experience.  That will change as I finally have a garage now and am in the process of setting up my shop. 

I wanted to use pocketholes because face screwing into the end grain of plywood isn't as strong as pocketholes where the screw bites into the face grain.  Plus time isn't that big of an issue for me now.  I enjoy spending time in the garage and just want to make a nice set of cabinets.  I plan on doing a sketchup post once I get a better idea of what I am going to build and where.  I do like the idea of plywood boxes with mdf doors.

Thanks for the help.

Caboose,

I really think your first instincts are correct go with 2 1400 rails... they are far more versatile. Also you need to see the Festool 32mm system in action. You would save sooooo much time... Please read more.a

I have the 1900 for my TS 75 and a 1400 with my TS 55....  I hate the 1900 it does not travel easily and hardly covers a 8' length. I added a Second 1400  with the 32mm holes and connect them and love it. They fit in a Festool carry bag...so they DO NOT get dinged up and are much better that a 1900 alone.  If you are shop bound and only work in a shop that has the space. Get a 2300 rail.

Pocket holes are great and very useful. The Festool Domino is also a very good alternative to Pocket holes. It all depends on what you do and how you work. I work on site and do many things so flexibility is is very important. A pocket hole a great thing... use them if you want will they take more time.... Well.... tell me more that what?

You need to check out Festool 32mm system.... it makes building cabinets much simpler, faster and stronger.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Corwin]

...
I have the 1900 for my TS 75 and a 1400 with my TS 55....  I hate the 1900 it does not travel easily and hardly covers a 8' length. I added a Second 1400  with the 32mm holes and connect them and love it. They fit in a Festool carry bag...so they DO NOT get dinged up and are much better that a 1900 alone.  If you are shop bound and only work in a shop that has the space. Get a 2300 rail.
...

Steve,

Your statements regarding the FS1900/2 don't make much sense to me.  One wouldn't use a 1900mm rail to make an 8' cut, but rather use the 1900 to make 4' cuts (since the 1400 is only just able to make them) and either use two joined 1400s or something like the 3000mm rail for those 8' cuts.  And there isn't any such animal as a 2300mm rail -- if you meant a 2400 or even a 2424LR32 rail, then neither of those would be long enough for an 8' cut either. 

 

[Steve R]

...
I have the 1900 for my TS 75 and a 1400 with my TS 55....  I hate the 1900 it does not travel easily and hardly covers a 8' length. I added a Second 1400  with the 32mm holes and connect them and love it. They fit in a Festool carry bag...so they DO NOT get dinged up and are much better that a 1900 alone.  If you are shop bound and only work in a shop that has the space. Get a 2300 rail.
...

Steve,

Your statements regarding the FS1900/2 don't make much sense to me.  One wouldn't use a 1900mm rail to make an 8' cut, but rather use the 1900 to make 4' cuts (since the 1400 is only just able to make them) and either use two joined 1400s or something like the 3000mm rail for those 8' cuts.  And there isn't any such animal as a 2300mm rail -- if you meant a 2400 or even a 2424LR32 rail, then neither of those would be long enough for an 8' cut either. 

The Festool TS saws are not only track saws they are plunge saws. You don't need to have the leading edge of the blade off of the sheet goods at the start. You just need to have the trailing edge a bit behind the start of the sheet goods. The leading edge of the blade only has to go past the edge of sheet good you are cutting. A 1400 has easily cut 48 inches, for me for years.  Now if you are cutting at a angle (not a bevel) the same holds true but you will need rail of the correct length. My 1080 added from my MFT/3 added to my 1400 or 1900 will make it work.

I don't own or use a table saw. Therefore I don't think like those that own and use table saws. On a table saw the material cut must be placed before the blade and go totally past the blade. Not so with a Festool TS and rail. That is why I can cut on site a a 4'x8' where a table saw could not as it would need about 18' to do what I can do it 10 ft.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Steve