RAS 115 power loss.

[AlexThePalex]

Conduct current

Blimey, who would have thunk it!

Hmmm, this is really descending into a kindergarten level conversation, isn't it?

Again, where did you instruct the OP to disconnect the electronics?

Hmmm, this is really descending into a kindergarten level conversation, isn't it?

You can't be bothered to read a little bit, you know, just to be sure?

Here mister, my very first reply in this thread:

2 - If the problem stil exists, now also bypass the electronics module and connect the mains wire directly to the brushes. This can be done without problem. If this still does not solve the problem, it is the motor. Which is a costly repair.

 

[peter halle]

If you want that tool operational, just send it in for service. 

The conversations on this are on a generous border now on getting beyond civil.

Peter

 

[R0bbie]

Conduct current

Blimey, who would have thunk it!

Hmmm, this is really descending into a kindergarten level conversation, isn't it?

Again, where did you instruct the OP to disconnect the electronics?

Hmmm, this is really descending into a kindergarten level conversation, isn't it?

You can't be bothered to read a little bit, you know, just to be sure?

Here mister, my very first reply in this thread:

2 - If the problem stil exists, now also bypass the electronics module and connect the mains wire directly to the brushes. This can be done without problem. If this still does not solve the problem, it is the motor. Which is a costly repair.

Where do I read "disconnect the electronics" ?, You write "bypass the electronics" see the difference ? it is still connected!
I am very sorry to hurt your feelings [tongue]

 

[AlexThePalex]

Where do I read "disconnect the electronics" ?, You write "bypass the electronics" see the difference ? it is still connected!
I am very sorry to hurt your feelings [tongue]

No, I don't see the difference, because bypass means you need to disconnect it. Now that's just my routine of working things out, because for me me it is natural to make sure a current doesn't flow in the wrong direction. But I can not anticipate every mistake other people can make. Apparently OP thought of the same thing and asked and altough at that moment I didn't precisely know what he meant, I advised him to take it all out.

Am I ok to leave the original lead connected, and using a new lead just liven up those terminals?

I don't know exactly what you mean by that, but when I'm repairing a tool/troubleshooting, I take out what I don't need because clutter is the last thing I need. It's just a few screws.

Take photos on your cell phone during the process so you know how to connect it all back.

That's why you should not jump in the middle of a conversation and react to a single comment without bothering to follow the entire thing.

And certainly not in the impolite way you do.

My apologies Peter, I do my best to remain civil here.

 

[jimmyboygr]

Jimmyboygr: thanks for response – appreciate your input to the forum.  My interest is that I have an old well used RAS115, so this thread might be useful to me one day.

Just double-checking, the thermistor is buried / embedded in the stator, and, therefore not easily replaced – if at all?  How would you suggest the OP checks his thermistor?

There is a sensor as spare part but is used as checking,what I mean is that you plug it in to see how the electronics run.If this is the problem,then unfortunatelly you have to change fields.In some cases it can be replaced and used with white thermal glue/paste on the fields.For example the 473744 is for the rap 150.