RAS 115 used for stripping paint from sheet metal.

[Vanhalo]

I have a M416 Jeep Trailer that needs some work.
Would the RAS 115 be a good candidate for stripping the paint?

 

[RJNeal]

May be. I would be concern collecting as much dust as possible in a heap dust collector but be wary of sparks also being collected. Most likely there is lead in that paint. Maybe paint stripper?
Rick

 

[xedos]

I'd take that to a body shop and have them media blast it before I bought a new sander and $hundreds in sandpaper.

Unless you just love sanding stuff as therapy.

 

[Vanhalo]

Seems like this would do the trick.https://www.festool.com/accessory/485097---tb-d80m14-ras-115#Overview

Also this post was very helpful.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/ras-115/

 

[Cheese]

It all depends upon the support network you have available.

For me, this would be a great RAS project if you have little confidence in the local blasters in your area. Many sandblasters are known to be less than a desirable alternative for removing paint if they are left to their own devices. Good media blasters are hard to find...much like good powder coaters, but that's another thread.

 

[Vanhalo]

It all depends upon the support network you have available.

For me, this would be a great RAS project if you have little confidence in the local blasters in your area. Many sandblasters are known to be less than a desirable alternative for removing paint if they are left to their own devices. Good media blasters are hard to find...much like good powder coaters, but that's another thread.

Yeah i tried that route initially and they didn't want to fool with it.
I have seen folks tackle this themselves.

 

[Cheese]

You'll be ok with the frame/angle/channel being media blasted, it's hard to screw that up. The parts you don't want to have them touch are the flat panels on the trailer and the fenders.

I'd start with Saphir 50 and go up or down from there. You'll still need something to get into the corners...maybe chemical stripper or a very very quick localized media blast. Just a quick touch to clean the immediate corner. Wire brushes also work.

That's a very cool  [cool]  trailer and it'd be a fun project.  [big grin]

I should add, last year I refinished a motorcycle trailer using a RAS with Saphir discs and several different style wire brushes.

The Saphir works great on flat surfaces, just move along to prevent putting too much heat into the metal. The wire brushes get consumed at a pretty rapid rate. I was surprised at how quickly they went away.

I used a combination of Pferd & Weiler wheels in both cup and knot wheel styles. Wear safety goggles as the crimped wheels will eject their wires on a regular basis. They sting when they hit you in the chest and get stuck in your shirt.

I used 2 coats of POR-15 to refinish the trailer and then top-coated that. The top-coating is a must.
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating

 

[AlexThePalex]

You'll be ok with the frame/angle/channel being media blasted, it's hard to screw that up. The parts you don't want to have them touch are the flat panels on the trailer and the fenders.

Ha, this reminds me of a car we once had to spray paint in my father's bodyshop.

He had this regular customer who was a collector of vintage cars, and he once came in with a vintage Triumph sportster that he was restoring and wanted us to spray. It did look really bad on the outside. He was dead set on having the entire body of the car sand blasted and had already made arrangements with some specialised company to get it done.

My father already told him it would not be a good idea, just thorough sanding with some blasting on certain trouble spots should be enough, but no, he wanted us to take the entire body apart so he could get all the panels blasted piece by piece in this machine the sand blaster had. 

So we did of course, the customer is always right, but when it came back, the entire surface was turned into 120 grit metal sandpaper. It was really atrocious. On the outside we were very sorry for our dear customer, but on the inside we were laughing out loud. We had to treat the entire body of the car with putty to get it smooth again, good money for my dad, but what a waste for such a nice car.

 

[Gregor]

... when it came back, the entire surface was turned into 120 grit metal sandpaper.

But wasn't that the result of a badly selected blast medium?

In comparison some dry ice blasting on cars:

 

[xedos]

Gregor beat me to it , the specialist used the wrong medium.  Probably sand.

You've read and heard the disclaimers "read the manual , AND know how to properly use your tool"

edit:  My guy uses walnut shells.

 

[Cheese]

In comparison some dry ice blasting on cars:

Thanks for that [member=53905]Gregor[/member]  ...I didn't know that method existed. We're still into soda blasting. [big grin]

 

[Gregor]

I didn't know that method existed.

Have done it some years back, was interesting. Just make sure to have a fresh air feed when using it in enclosed spaces.

We're still into soda blasting. [big grin]

I didn't know that that method existed.

 

[Vanhalo]

You'll be ok with the frame/angle/channel being media blasted, it's hard to screw that up. The parts you don't want to have them touch are the flat panels on the trailer and the fenders.

I'd start with Saphir 50 and go up or down from there. You'll still need something to get into the corners...maybe chemical stripper or a very very quick localized media blast. Just a quick touch to clean the immediate corner. Wire brushes also work.

That's a very cool  [cool]  trailer and it'd be a fun project.  [big grin]

I should add, last year I refinished a motorcycle trailer using a RAS with Saphir discs and several different style wire brushes.

The Saphir works great on flat surfaces, just move along to prevent putting too much heat into the metal. The wire brushes get consumed at a pretty rapid rate. I was surprised at how quickly they went away.

I used a combination of Pferd & Weiler wheels in both cup and knot wheel styles. Wear safety goggles as the crimped wheels will eject their wires on a regular basis. They sting when they hit you in the chest and get stuck in your shirt.

I used 2 coats of POR-15 to refinish the trailer and then top-coated that. The top-coating is a must.
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating

Thanks for your input. I ordered the RAS yesterday.
I have had my eye on it for a couple of years...so now that it is $200 and discontinued I figure I would pull the trigger.