Razor Sharp Tools - Lapping Technique Videos

[Stone Message]

Hi Everyone

I have finally taken the advice from my brother and gone back to lapping techniques for tool sharpening. An article in a UK woodworking magazine helped and the author, Michael Forster, has given me his blessing.

What has really made this work for me is the Veritas honing guide. There are two videos and I have put them in this section as they are effectively a review of the Veritas guide and the abrasives that I show. My Tormek is going on ebay very soon. This is now the only way that I will sharpen tools from now on.

Part 1:



Part 2:



Peter

 

[Earl of wood]

What are your thoughts about cleaning the oil and grit off the blade between grits?  Do you recommand going another step using leather strop and Honing Compound?

 

[Stone Message]

What are your thoughts about cleaning the oil and grit off the blade between grits?  Do you recommand going another step using leather strop and Honing Compound?

Hi Earl

I do not see cross contamination as a big issue as the oil should allow most of the debris to float away. The use of a strop (my father would have loved that) or honing compound is something that enthusiasts can get into if they wish. I am more than satisfied with the system as shown. This is it for me - no more Tormek

Peter

 

[Earl of wood]

Thanks for the quick reply.  Your video's have been a big help to me.  I'm also trying to get my "post" count up so I don't hit the spam filter.

 

[Stone Message]

Thanks for the quick reply.  Your video's have been a big help to me.  I'm also trying to get my "post" count up so I don't hit the spam filter.

I don't know what the spam filter is - perhaps I have one too - or is it a Monty Python thing ! (They are doing a one off show in London - it sold out in 45 seconds)

Peter

 

[tbellemare]

For a long time I thought the SPAM filter was the server that picked the correct sandwich depending on which one you ordered at Spamarama. The choices could be plain, fried, grilled, etc.

There were other ways to enjoy your SPAM including sculpture.

Tom

EDIT:
Nice videos, as usual, Peter!
I like your technique.

 

[Rocky]

Great video.

 

[JPF Woodworking]

Hi Peter,

Great video! Like you I have tried several different methods for sharpening but I think I may join you and convert back to lapping my edge cutting tools. Couple of quick questions: how often so you need to change the lapping paper? Once stuck to your glass surface, how difficult is it to remove the paper?

Thanks again for all the great videos. I often wonder how you find the time.....

Best regards,

John

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Peter,

Great video! Like you I have tried several different methods for sharpening but I think I may join you and convert back to lapping my edge cutting tools. Couple of quick questions: how often so you need to change the lapping paper? Once stuck to your glass surface, how difficult is it to remove the paper?

Thanks again for all the great videos. I often wonder how you find the time.....

Best regards,

John

Hi John

Thank you for the kind comments.

I have not tested any of the lapping film to destruction. My brother (who has been using this technique for many years) says that it lasts a long time - he is a professional woodworker and wood turning instructor and so his stuff probably gets a hammering. In my small shop I expect one set of film to last at least a year based on every tool having a tickle every 2-4 weeks. The 'tickle' is the key, little and often is the answer.

I have removed both the 3M and Axminster film from the underside of my float glass. It came away okay but some of the sticky membrane was left behind. I used some white spirit, kitchen paper and a scraper to remove that - took seconds. I will probably go for plain (non sticky back) film in future as it does stay put quite well. Sticky back may be essential for lapping the sole of a plane.

Peter

 

[Stephen B]

[size=11pt]

Peter, you must continue to be pleased with that new camera.

You are making me think again about oil and water.
I am wondering if instead of petroleum based oils, would industrial canola oil or industrial lanolin (talk of sheep!) be as efficient?

Enjoy those new planes, I have the low angle jack and 4 1/2 smoother.

I read on another post that you are thinking of a video on shellac. I look forward to that.  [smile]

 

[Stone Message]

[size=11pt]

Peter, you must continue to be pleased with that new camera.

You are making me think again about oil and water.
I am wondering if instead of petroleum based oils, would industrial canola oil or industrial lanolin (talk of sheep!) be as efficient?

Enjoy those new planes, I have the low angle jack and 4 1/2 smoother.

I read on another post that you are thinking of a video on shellac. I look forward to that.  [smile]

I am not sure about other oils - I think I will stick with my light machine oil but the others might be worth a try provided they do not leave any gummy deposit as they dry.

Yes I have bought those two planes as well as the low angle block plane - simply brilliant.

Yes, I will try and do something on French Polishing but it will probably not be until at least February as I have a backlog of video work and a leather top desk to make.

Do let us know if you try different oils.

Peter

 

[Michael Kellough]

I have removed both the 3M and Axminster film from the underside of my float glass. It came away okay but some of the sticky membrane was left behind. I used some white spirit, kitchen paper and a scraper to remove that - took seconds. I will probably go for plain (non sticky back) film in future as it does stay put quite well. Sticky back may be essential for lapping the sole of a plane.

Peter

I haven't used lapping film but I've used self adhesive abrasives for years for flattening small parts (especially metal) with widely varying results. Turns out the reason fro the variation is the adhesive not the abrasive. A lumpy layer of adhesive means only the hight spots of the abrasive do any work. Of the brands I've used 3M was the best by far.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Michael

That is an interesting observation. When I ordered the stuff that I used I assumed that adhesive backing was essential for good results. In the second video I discovered that adhesives are not required. I will try some more grit sizes without glue and report back.

Many thanks.

Peter

 

[Michael Kellough]

PSA abrasives work well for flattening parts with a large contact area but the soft adhesive
would be a problem when trying to get a fine edge on a chisel or plane blade.

A stiff film back would reduce the tendency of the abrasive to go concave under the pressure of the tool edge
but it's better to avoid the soft adhesive entirely.

So, I wonder if the non-adhesive lapping film sticks better to a non-porous surface (glass) or a porous surface like granite?

 

[davee]

Excellent videos - great content.  I have the small honing guide you showed at the start and have been pretty pleased.  I do however see a better honing guide at some point in the future.

 

[Stone Message]

Excellent videos - great content.  I have the small honing guide you showed at the start and have been pretty pleased.  I do however see a better honing guide at some point in the future.

Hi Davee,

I did not realise how my cheap and cheerful honing guide was letting me down. Now that I think back I am sure that it is the reason that I gave up my early attempts at lapping and went for the Tormek. My problem now is my wrists (arthritickyness - the spell checker hates that) and so there is now no way that I can control a honing guide with such a narrow support wheel. If you can try one do so and you will not turn back.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

Awesome video as always Peter.

You have read my mind. I have some chisels that need sharpening. Once i find a place to put them in my small shop. I will be sharpening them.

Looks like i will be taking a trip to Axminster soon.

You have just talked me out of a Tormac

 

[Stone Message]

Awesome video as always Peter.

You have read my mind. I have some chisels that need sharpening. Once i find a place to put them in my small shop. I will be sharpening them.

Looks like i will be taking a trip to Axminster soon.

You have just talked me out of a Tormac

You need to check that they have the kit in stock - you might need to try Brimarc.

Do you know anybody who wants to buy a Tormek? I need to sell mine quick to pay for a new bit of kit!

Peter

 

[Deansocial]

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Scary_Sharpening.html

These has a range from 100micron to 0.3 micron

 

[TelcoRandy]

This is pretty neat, the Work Sharp 3000:


I actually like this guy's videos a lot. Good reviews, I especially like his safety video for table saws where he almost cuts off his fingers trying to demonstrate how dangerous they can be when they kick back.