Reading nook?

[Crazyraceguy]

Goes in a school and will have a run of benches extending from that right end.
It's a very odd size though. The opening is only 25 1/2" wide, but it's 87" high? The whole thing is over 116" high. It has a loose back, so it can be installed with no visible fasteners. The left side will attach with a cleat and screws in the back braces will hold it in place.
The bonus is that I will end up with some Festool green laminate. So, I will finally get some matching drawer fronts for those plywood drawers in my Sysports.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Today it was decided that it wasn't going to be able to stand up in the room where it goes, so a modification was in order. It was 116" tall and I assumed that it would be going into a 10 foot high room. This kind of thing is supposed to be worked out long before it gets to me.
Normally, it would be a move the ceiling tiles and rework the grid, or build it shorter and lift it onto a toe kick platform. This one is neither, hard ceiling and no kick.
The modification was to cut 3" off of the top and make a removable cap/moulding to cover the resulting gap.
This is the perfect application for an FS Rapid clamp.

 

[squall_line]

I've "forgotten the diagonal" more than once when building or moving something tall/long into a space where it was just barely supposed to fit.  Great adjustment!

 

[Packard]

I’ve seen tall kitchen cabinets with about 3” to 4” removed at the rear and on an angle to about 8” to 10”  from the rear on kitchen cabinets.  One side went against a wall and the other side against an upper cabinet.  If the situation allows it, this is a good solution.

When I had that issue, I made the toe-kick as a separate item.  Install the toe-kick and then lift and slide in the cabinet. 

Your solution looks seamless and as a fix after the cabinet was made, a good choice. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I’ve seen tall kitchen cabinets with about 3” to 4” removed at the rear and on an angle to about 8” to 10”  from the rear on kitchen cabinets.  One side went against a wall and the other side against an upper cabinet.  If the situation allows it, this is a good solution.

When I had that issue, I made the toe-kick as a separate item.  Install the toe-kick and then lift and slide in the cabinet. 

Your solution looks seamless and as a fix after the cabinet was made, a good choice.

That's exactly how I got the tall pantry cabinet in my daughter's kitchen. There is a soffit/chase around the whole area and it meets that and ties into the rest of the uppers.

 

[Packard]

There must be some math that could provide the correct measurements for that.  If I were to do it, I would have to make a template.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There must be some math that could provide the correct measurements for that.  If I were to do it, I would have to make a template.

There is, it's the Pythagorean theorem. Using the height and depth of the unit will give you the length of the hypotenuse. (the diagonal measurement)
Though the simple way is to stretch a tape measure across the diagonal with your focus on the height of the room and mark the long edge at that point. (assuming, like this case, where it's already too long)
As it is now, there is 1/2" clearance and that cap will make it exactly the same as it was. If the walls and ceiling are plumb and level  : it will slide right on.