Really rough cut from Panther blade

[jt073]

I have been using a 12T Panther blade on my TSC55. Thinking it would be better for cutting up plywood/mdf than the supplied 28T blade.

I’m not sure the cut was ever brilliant, but I have just noticed that the blade feels very rough when cutting and producing a very uneven cut. Below is a photo of the cut on some 9mm mdf with the Panther blade and the standard one. I have never had any blade, however blunt, produce a wonky cut like this.

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I have examined the blade and cannot see any nick or other damage to the TC tips on this pretty lightly used blade. I guess one of the teeth must have got out of line and maybe I will try a dial indicator when I get back to the main workshop. Has anyone else had this experience? 

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Cheers

 

[waho6o9]

A rip blade does produce those results. 

Feeds and speeds spring to mind. 

Maybe try a blade that's designed for MDF and such. 

Best of luck

 

[woodferret]

Had the same behavior on solid yellow pine.  I think an offset rake would produce closer ridges considering how small the blade is and how slow our feed typically is.  My take was that set is so aggressive that it vibrates the saw as we push forward in soft materials.  Subsequent passes won't remove these.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Maybe some Panther blades are better than others but mine is just as bad. The only time I used it it left at least as crummy an edge and wrecked the splinter guard. Never used it again. Worst Festool purchase so far.

The Combination blade cuts a little slower but leaves a pretty smooth edge.

 

[Imemiter]

It would never have occurred to me to try a 12T blade on ply'd or composite. The Panther tears up crosscuts so badly I won't even use it for framing. I assumed it was only for ripping lumber. Which is where it's worked great for me. 

 

[ElectricFeet]

Take a look at p78 in the Festool catalogue. The panther blade (12 teeth on the TS55) is really only for rip cuts in solid wood.

The few teeth and big gullets are not about being “aggressive” in tough material. They are more about having massive amounts of space to take away big long splinters of wood fibres that you get when rip-cutting. 

When you cut mdf, you don’t have long splinters (it’s dust, held together with glue) and so you don’t need the large gullets. At the same time, more teeth is better, to aggressively cut through the tough material.

So for mdf, they recommend the universal blade (28 teeth on a TS55).

 

[Toolpig]

The Panther blade is made for ripping hardwoods. Don’t use it in MDF, plywood, or for cross-cutting. And don’t expect a glue-ready joint. A
couple of swipes with a long hand plane after ripping is all it takes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The Panther is pretty much a specialty blade. Many users never need one, since it is designed for ripping solid wood, rather than sheet goods. Most track saw use is just that, sheet goods (plywood, MDF, etc)
The standard 28 tooth blade would do far better. Even better yet would be the 42 tooth "fine finish". It takes a bit more power to run that through thicker material, but it's great in 3/4" ply or MDF.

 

[squall_line]

The Panther is pretty much a specialty blade. Many users never need one, since it is designed for ripping solid wood, rather than sheet goods. Most track saw use is just that, sheet goods (plywood, MDF, etc)
The standard 28 tooth blade would do far better. Even better yet would be the 42 tooth "fine finish". It takes a bit more power to run that through thicker material, but it's great in 3/4" ply or MDF.

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] or anyone else with the experience to know, would a Panther blade be indicated for ripping kiln-dried 4/4 or 8/4 slabs of ash, or would the 28 tooth be better?  I know that I have almost every 2.2mm blade type that Festool made for my TS55 and maybe a Panther for my TS75.  I planned on using the 55 on the 4/4 and the 75 on the 8/4 when the time comes to rip those beasts (nevermind dragging them to the shop from the shed).

I'm sure the answer is "TS60 with 1.8mm kerf", but that's not in the cards, nor is a TSC55 or TS55K.  Or maybe my HKC 55 with the 18 tooth blade, but that feels wrong somehow.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=75217]squall_line[/member] yes, that would be the best way to go.
I used a Panther in my TS75 to split a barn post for a mantle. I had to cut full-depth from both sides to get that done, but it did the job just fine.

 

[Cheese]

Here's a Panther ripping 1-7/8" thick aromatic cedar, the cedar has a Janka hardness similar to maple & cherry.

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Enlarge the area designated with the red arrow.

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After that fiasco, I swapped out the Panther for a 28 tooth blade, it ripped the cedar easily. Panther on the top, 28 tooth on the bottom.

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[woodferret]

Does everyone cut at speed 6 too?
I wonder if reducing the speed might knock it out of the harmonics that may be causing this crappy cut.

edit: I'd try it myself except I'm not on good terms with that blade.  Last time I tried it, it ate my splinter guard, my homework, and my dog.

 

[Cheese]

Does everyone cut at speed 6 too?
I wonder if reducing the speed might knock it out of the harmonics that may be causing this crappy cut.

edit: I'd try it myself except I'm not on good terms with that blade.  Last time I tried it, it ate my splinter guard, my homework, and my dog.

For wood the speed is maxed out. For aluminum & plastic the speed gets adjusted accordingly.

 

[bwehman]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] agreed, that cut isn't great. I have a panther blade and got similar results on white oak a few months ago. Wasn't stoked, but sort of just wrote it off and relegated the blade to "rough" dimensioning. Its benefit is speed I guess? Final dimension cuts get a higher tooth count blade from now on, even for rips.

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] agreed, that cut isn't great. I have a panther blade and got similar results on white oak a few months ago. Wasn't stoked, but sort of just wrote it off and relegated the blade to "rough" dimensioning. Its benefit is speed I guess? Final dimension cuts get a higher tooth count blade from now on, even for rips.

Ya, at times like this it would be really, really helpful if Festool tech service would simply weigh-in and clear away some of the smoke they created. In normal organizations...normal is the operative word here...that's the major focus of tech service. Festool did create the Panther...they do sell the Panther...and they continue to market the Panther...so in what specific instances do they recommend the Panther blade to be used?

I'd love to hear their recommendations... [dead horse] [dead horse] [dead horse]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I don't think it's intended for finish cuts. Breaking down thicker solid wood can be a bit variable in the first place. You can't really expect it to remain straight. The tension released can move it either way, so a "finish" cut probably isn't needed. Just getting it apart is the goal, let it do it's thing, then hit the jointer. There may be exceptions of course.
Fine teeth when ripping can overload the gullets, because the "sawdust" isn't dust. Some species are more exaggerated than others, but it's normally long curly shavings, even more with true flat-top teeth.
With thin material, it doesn't matter nearly as much. 8 quarter, you'll notice it.