Reasonable LR32 solution for 1010?

Kpp80202

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Feb 27, 2022
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I have done several searches and a lot of reading for ways to get the LR32 system benefits for less than the $500 for the kit. One that looks promising is the 3d printed index pin “bracket” that fits on the 1010s included guide rail adapter rods. Anyone have any experience with this type of solution, or any opinions on its pros and cons?
 
Rick, no worries! I wanted to include that I’ve also bought deeply into the Makita 18v system, and wouldn’t want to get into another cordless system (besides the 12v Festool for my CXS).
 
I have the CMT dowel template which I use primarily with the drill fixture shown, but also with a 14mm bushing on the router.  It seems to be as quick as the Festool system and is less than $500.00.  I had to order it from Amazon.de (Germany).  It is not marketed in the USA. 

But that is just for hole drilling, not for milling slots. 

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Kpp80202 said:
Rick, no worries! I wanted to include that I’ve also bought deeply into the Makita 18v system, and wouldn’t want to get into another cordless system (besides the 12v Festool for my CXS).

I believe [member=60461]Bob D.[/member] is considering adapting his design for other routers, makita is probably high on the list.

RMW
 
Not sure what you have already (1010, holey rail?), but I decided to go with just the guide plate, holey rail, and end stops. I was able to find alternatives to the Festool router bits.

I can't comment on the 3D printed part that goes on the guide rods, I would probably have considered that but I don't have a Festool router.

If you're ambitious and really want to save money you could make your own guide plate.
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To me it seemed like the most important parts for accuracy were the holey rail, the end stops, and the guide plate, so I ended up getting the official Festool parts for those components. I feel like for the front set backs there are plenty of other solutions, like DIY set back guides (Peter Millard has a video on some simple ones out of MDF or plywood), or if you have parallel guides you could use those. I'm planning on using a Woodpecker metric paolini pocket rule to push the rail back from the front edge.

If you have access to a 3D printer, there's also this thing, which I haven't tested or anything, but could be a cheap solution if it works well.
 
Kpp80202 said:
I have done several searches and a lot of reading for ways to get the LR32 system benefits for less than the $500 for the kit. One that looks promising is the 3d printed index pin “bracket” that fits on the 1010’s included guide rail adapter rods. Anyone have any experience with this type of solution, or any opinions on its pros and cons?

I'm in the same boat. I bought the new 1010 and I negociated a holey with my new TSC 55 K. Do you have the link to that 3d printer index pin?
 
You can use any router. Just will need to adapt it.

One thing, make sure to choose a router with smooth movement. You need to be able to comfortably plunge the router with one hand. so you can guide the plate with the other. Not all the cheapies allow that ...

I would recommend to get the bare Festool LR32 plate which comes with the centering mandrel. Then get the Festool drill bits - I would advise a set of 3,5,8mm. The other pieces are easy to make/compensate for form crap etc.

The 8mm bit is great for making long dowel joints ..
 
nicholam77 said:
Not sure what you have already (1010, holey rail?), but I decided to go with just the guide plate, holey rail, and end stops. I was able to find alternatives to the Festool router bits.

I have an old English made DW621 that I was planning on using with the LR32 rail.
 
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