Recommend me a Router table insert!

[rj_mccall]

Hey all,

    I previously posted asking for pattern bit advice and got some great responses as to brand and type. Ended up settling on a few different Whiteside bits and have completed a heap of template routing freehand since then. I'm finding template routing with my OF1400 to be a bit of a chore and have made a few small mistakes on thin tapered legs since. It got me thinking that template routing on a flat table would afford me a little more control then what I have been doing. I have an area in a worktop I can dedicate to a router insert and use my older porter cable router as a means of template routing. Can you recommend me an insert to use, doesn't need to have a lift as it will seldom see action. I've seen Kreg, amongst others, makes these, but perhaps first hand experience will give me a better idea of what to look for.

Thanks for your time!

 

[mrFinpgh]

Do you mean a plate to mount the router to? 

I made mine out of some solid surface material.  I've heard tales of people even buying phenolic cutting boards to make them. 

Depending on how you build your table, you could even drill a hole through whatever material the top is made from for the bit, and a couple smaller holes to match the pattern on your baseplate.  I did that with an OF1400 for a couple years and it actually worked very well.  Just make sure the top is flat.

 

[Peter_C]

https://jessem.com/products/rout-r-lift-prestige-for-plunge-based-routers

Better yet buy a dedicated router for the table. Something like a Triton that is ready to table mount.http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Product/Power Tools/Routers/TRA001

 

[ear3]

I have the Kreg plate (as part of the full Kreg table), and honestly, I would not now buy it if I had the choice.  It's phenolic, and with my heavy Triton router mounted to it there is a bit of sagging.  I've been able to correct this by making an additional set of 4 set screws that support the plate in the middle of each side, and this has eliminated the sag.  But next time around, I will just get an aluminum insert plate.

 

[Rick Herrick]

I just started along this route too.  I want a full scale router table but decided to go in one step at a time.  I bought this plate to go with an existing DW618 router.  Its not the end result but it gets me some practice in figuring out what I want to do.

WoodPecker Router Plate

EDIT: I also bought the template for somewhat easier install.  In my case I didn't let enough of the included bit protrude so initially I had trouble getting the depth I needed.  But its all good now.

 

[Cheese]

But next time around, I will just get an aluminum insert plate.

Tough to beat a 3/8” or 1/2” thick aluminum insert. Plastic and wood will sag...there’s a reason why shaper tables are constructed from cast iron or aluminum.

 

[rj_mccall]

Thanks for all the great replies! I have lots to work with now. I like the initial look and functionality of Woodpeckers aluminum plate.

Thanks again!

 

[StevoWevo]

I have a complete router table from Incra that I’m pretty happy with. I would check out their offerings. The magnalock rings fit very nice and they do have one that takes the PC style bushings. Either way I would see if there’s anything out there that might accept a lift later on. They really do make the table more enjoyable to use plus the repeatability factor

 

[Roseland]

I'm a great fan of Festool, and have (amongst others) both the OF1010 and OF1400. They are great handheld routers, but I can't imagine that they'd be anything but dreadful in a table.

I have Triton router in my table, and am very happy with it.  It has an automatic spindle lock when you raise the bit, and through the table height adjustment.

Can anyone explain why a router lift and any other router would be better?  I'm willing to learn, but at the moment I just don't see it.

Andrew

 

[ear3]

[member=6802]Roseland[/member] I have the Triton as well, and it's difficult for me to conceive why one would want to go back to a motor + lift when this setup is available.  I imagine the microadjust function would be better with a lift.  While there is a small amount of slop in the depth adjustment, I can still dial in the Triton as precisely as I need.  I do find that after unlocking the router to readjust to a different height, the router usually slips down a bit.  But I consider this to be immaterial, as I no longer need to keep the router at that specific height anyway.  And while you can get an extra .25HP with a PC motor over the 3 1/4 Triton, I have never found myself wishing the Triton were more powerful. 

I'm a great fan of Festool, and have (amongst others) both the OF1010 and OF1400. They are great handheld routers, but I can't imagine that they'd be anything but dreadful in a table.

I have Triton router in my table, and am very happy with it.  It has an automatic spindle lock when you raise the bit, and through the table height adjustment.

Can anyone explain why a router lift and any other router would be better?  I'm willing to learn, but at the moment I just don't see it.

Andrew