Refinishing "Honey Oak" cabinets options

[Ben H]

So I'll be closing on a new house in a month or so.  The kitchen is all 90's, and the boss has ordered a change.  The cabinets are typical red oak builder stuff.  Not horrible looking, just dated I suppose.  I know if I try to paint the oak, the grain will show right through.  I could use a high build spray primer to fill the grain first, but I was wondering if any you boys/girls have had any luck with cabinets such as these without painting?

 

[tjbnwi]

A little contex------what is it the boss does not like about the cabinets?

Tom

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

A little contex------what is it the boss does not like about the cabinets?

Tom

that there 90's red oak typical builders stuff

 

[Ben H]

A little contex------what is it the boss does not like about the cabinets?

Tom

that there 90's red oak typical builders stuff

Pretty much.  She wanted it torn out, and replaced, but I veto'd that. Too many other things to worry about first.  So the compromise was a refinish.  I like the glazed technique where it adds a dark brown highlight on the ogee line section of the doors and drawers.  But I can't help but think how terrible that will look on the stock stain though. 

What do most do with 15 yr old "Golden Oak" cabinets? 

 

[tjbnwi]

If she is that unhappy with them, scuff, water based floor filler, sand, prime, paint.

I'm a remodeling contractor, so I replace them.

Tom

 

[pugilato]

reface them, maybe?

 

[Jonhilgen]

The amount of time you will spend, materials you will buy, and most likely a less than stellar result...I would order new doors.  There are plenty of companies that you can purchase them from.

Jon

 

[downtheroad]

Here's an '80's golden oak kitchen in Laguna Niguel, California our shop did a few years ago. The homeowner wanted to change to a reddish brown tone. We basically cleaned/degreased everything and made sure all was scuffed with maroon scotchbrite pads for good adhesion. We then did the color work by glazing over the existing finish with custom mixed water-base glazes with an additive to slow down the drying so the glaze could be worked and blended with brushes. Then using a hvlp turbine sprayer, we topcoated with water-base poly.

drying after cleaning with TSP
[attachimg=001.jpg]

closeup - original golden oak
[attachimg=002.jpg]

closeup - new color
[attachimg=003.jpg]

glazing
[attachimg=004.jpg]

completed
[attachimg=005.jpg]

 

[rvieceli]

Sometimes the objection to those oak cabinets is more than just the honey or golden color. She may have a huge dislike to the grain pattern as well. Those 90's oak cabinets usually got rather bold with the grain.

So....before you expend a lot of time, money and energy keeping them natural but changing the stain, make sure it's not the whole package (grain included) that's the problem.

Don't ask me how I know this [sad]

 

[Ben H]

@downtheroad - So am I understanding that the glaze was the only color used? 

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

Ben, what condition are the carcasses in? If there worth saving then a budget friendly re-face might be an alternative. I'm not a huge fan of thermo-foil doors, but eliminates cost of finishing. They have some decent colors now, other than typical white.

 

[downtheroad]

@downtheroad - So am I understanding that the glaze was the only color used?  

Pretty much, yes. Sometimes, if sun-fading is bad on areas, we may have to do more color work on those areas with stains, glazes, and/or tints to dial everything in.

 

[Ben H]

Ben, what condition are the carcasses in? If there worth saving then a budget friendly re-face might be an alternative. I'm not a huge fan of thermo-foil doors, but eliminates cost of finishing. They have some decent colors now, other than typical white.

Everything seems to be in fine working condition.  Nothing broken, just ugly.    My first thought was to shoot the doors and drawers with a couple coats of this stuff.  http://www.amazon.com/Mar-Hyde-5463-Quick-Polyester-Primer/dp/B005RNGDGU  I've used it a lot on fiberglass, and thought since I was only filling the grain on the oak, a thin layer would do OK.

Then use something like this from Rustoleum.  http://www.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-258241-Light-Cabinet-Transformations/dp/B004RX0YMU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375004578&sr=1-3&keywords=rustoleum+cabinet+transformations

 

[pugilato]

I recently built a bathroom vanity using cedar veneered plywood. It had a strong grain pattern, and she wanted it painted white. I used the Minwax sanding sealer and after several coats and sanding, the grain still came through. Fortunately, the client liked it. Refacing is a good option, but the doors could be problematic. Maybe she might like red kitchen cabinets?

 

[Sparktrician]

You can also go the Kitchen Tune-Up route.  They will re-face the existing cabinets and put on new doors and drawer fronts if you don't have the time/desire to do it yourself.  Some friends had this done several years ago and it turned out quite well.  The kitchen was the major selling point when they sold their house. 

 

[tiralie]

My first thought was to shoot the doors and drawers with a couple coats of this stuff.  http://www.amazon.com/Mar-Hyde-5463-Quick-Polyester-Primer/dp/B005RNGDGU  I've used it a lot on fiberglass, and thought since I was only filling the grain on the oak, a thin layer would do OK.

If you have successfully sprayed 2K polyester, I would think using the Rustoleum product would be a bit like going back to kindergarten after you finished grade 8.

Then use something like this from Rustoleum.  http://www.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-258241-Light-Cabinet-Transformations/dp/B004RX0YMU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375004578&sr=1-3&keywords=rustoleum+cabinet+transformations
[/quote]

It would probably be cheaper, if you cleaned your cabinets with some TSP (Trisodium phosphate) and a light sanding with a scotch brite pad, then use a sealer (Mar-Hyde or 2K ureathane) and then apply a wipe on stain color of your choice and then seal that with a good clear coat.

 

[Ben H]

I was explaining to the wife last night that 75% of that Rustoleum kit was for people not in tune with things like this.  How-to DVD and all.... [huh]

She did however (I think) make a decision on their "Espresso" color w/ a glaze.  My first thought was to find a color and get some primer and paint at Sherwin Williams.  Grab a can of "Van Dyke Brown" glaze, and a gallon of General's Waterborne Poly.

Kind of "make my own kit".  I'm just not sure what kind/sheen of paint to get. 

 

[tiralie]

I'm just not sure what kind/sheen of paint to get. 

Take some drawer fronts off and do some samples on the back and show it to the boss.
She can then hopefully pick the one she likes.
Because most of the drawer front is hidden by the drawer box, you won't have much sanding and cleaning up to do on the ones she didn't like.
Tim