Removing trim from built ins

[Kodi Crescent]

Hi,

I have a built in cabinet that I built for a finished attic.  The overall width of the cabinet is about 9', and its built from 4 boxes tucked into the attic knee wall.  A 5'x9' Poplar face frame ties all the boxes together. This was my first time building something like this, and when I installed it, I didn't factor in that I'd have to seal the finished attic space from the unfinished attic space.  It's a tight fit, and its a bit crooked.  There are gaps between the face frame and the drywall.  Gaps large enough that backhand trim really can't cover.  (I guess it could, but the scribe would look terrible).

The cabinet is built relatively tight to the height of the wall and the sloping ceiling.  There's about 1.5"  or less of drywall at the margins of the face frame.  VERY difficult to float.

So as I'm trying to get this tighter so that I can seal the space, I have a couple of options.

1. Smack the face frame with a sledge and hope to "convince" the boxes to go in further.  (It was a tight fit!).
2. Remove the face frame so that I can add a sheet of drywall behind to shim it out farther from the wall. The problem is, I don't remember how I installed the face frame.  I at least nailed it.  But I probably glued it, too.

I want to avoid taking the Multimaster to the frame.  A frame that large was a real pain to create.  Jack mitered joints and all.  Are there any other non-destructive options to try to separate the box from the face frame?  Add tall back band instead of drywall? (It may be 1.5" tall ) that I can caulk to seal?  Any advice is appreciated.  Thanks!

 

[wow]

Pictures would be really helpful to help us understand the problem. Any chance you have some?

 

[rizzoa13]

From whatcit sounds like you could use a structural drywall tape and float it. Cut a drywall knife down to the size you need with a pair of tin snipes and it'll make floating it a lot easier.

That is of course if yoi think you can make it look good. Otherwise some pic would definitely be helpful.

 

[Brent Taylor]

Take a look at some of the flexible crown moldings or pull the cabinet and fix the ceiling and the opening proper. The words that come to mind are proper prior planning prevents problems [wink]. Words I live by & heard every day when I started out in the trades & at college, same difference in my case kinda. Sorry if I sound you know, but been there, done that type of thing. [wink]

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Here are the pictures of the problem.  This is an attic space.  The banisters are the stairs leading up to the attic from the 2nd floor.  There's a 2' wide space thats about 10' long that this cabinet insets into.  I didn't know what to do with this odd space, other than put a built in there for an entertainment center or library.

The pictures may show the tight clearances I'm dealing with.  I have the exterior wall on one side (perpendicular to the face of the cabinet), the cathedral ceiling on another side, and light switches on the other side.  All very tight areas to float.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I had never heard of structural drywall tape.  I don't know if it will work in this application, but perhaps in another one.  I've got a closet I'm remodeling, and I'm unable to fasten the drywall where it meets in the corner.  I may need to pull the insulation and add blocking.  But would the structural drywall tape help prevent cracking in this instance?  Is this something I can get a at a box store?

 

[tjbnwi]

I had never heard of structural drywall tape.  I don't know if it will work in this application, but perhaps in another one.  I've got a closet I'm remodeling, and I'm unable to fasten the drywall where it meets in the corner.  I may need to pull the insulation and add blocking.  But would the structural drywall tape help prevent cracking in this instance?  Is this something I can get a at a box store?

For your closet--Yes----never seen it at a box store. No-Coat--

http://www.no-coat.com/NO-COAT/ARCHITECTS/Products/ULTRAFLEX/

To solve the gap issue on the built in I would rip a fill from the same wood as the trim, fit it, pin in place through the trim. Finish with trim to match.

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

Agree on both counts a ripped filler would look best on your right hand side there up against the exterior wall. I still would take structural drywall tape and mud it on level and cut down a drywall knife in order to be able to fit it in there and skim.

The tape will work for you Kodi and id go one step further and use setting compound to tape and first coat it. Get the 45 minute powder stuff that you need to mix yourself. It sets as solid as concrete but is very hard to sand. Make sure you do a decent job of smoothing it as your applying so you aren't stuck trying to sand it too much.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Any idea where I could find the No Coat stuff?  Is this the sort of product that one can buy a few beads at a time as needed for a remodel?

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Which No Coat product do you guys recommend for the drywall corners?  I see they have 4.5", 3.25", and 2.xx" widths.