Removing wallpaper

nnordrum

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Jan 29, 2011
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Somebody, I won't say who, decided that the textured wallpaper in the kitchen had to go. It's on top of plaster, and so far it's come off really easily with a chisel to get under and then just peals off. However, it does leave some glue and backing on the wall. I can get it down to plaster with a scraper, but I figured it would go a lot faster/easier with the RO150.

Any suggestions on what paper(s) to use?

I can post some pics if it makes a difference.

We're going to put a thin plaster coat on it and then paint it. I'm going to have somebody do the actual plaster work, but wanted to get all the prep work done myself. How far down do I need to go? smooth plaster/no glue? some glue okay?

Thanks!
 
I'm going to suggest you use something that'll dissolve the glue first, then maybe sugar soap.

I'd wait for other advice - but I've always use'd wallpaper stripper, then sugar soap. Then sand / fill / etc.
 
Downy fabric soften in warm water. I have yet to find anything that works better. Works better than wallpaper remover. 

Sanding it will only cause you more problems in the finish stages. If you skim/prime/paint and see small brown bubbles, you did not clean it well enough.

An oil based primer is you best choice for the first coat. Even if you have to skim it, an oil prime coat will help.

Tom
 
I just did that in my 100 year old kitchen.  It had painted oil cloth on top of the original plaster.  The oil cloth came off in big sheets and then I just use my ro90 to get the glue off and it worked perfectly. 
 
I used the RO 90 and P 60 Granat to remove the glue and latex paint that was left on a backsplash after removing Formica that was folded up the wall. It worked really well and fast. All the glue ended up as little balls on the countertop plywood. One sheet of 90mm abrasive did about 20-30 ft sq. I wanted to get down to clean plaster.

Tom
 
WOW - that surprises me. I've alway had a mess sanding anything glue like.

Last time I tried was with a 1/3 sheet Makita though ... hmmm.

Next time this comes up I'll give it a go with the RO ...
 
sanding is a waste of paper. warm soapy water and a sponge. sponge it on a big area then go back to the start and sponge again doing a small area ( you will work out the area as you go) then get a wide scraper and scrape it off. it sould slid right offwith very little efford. then wash down to remove extra glue. id save the sander for after all that for stubourn bits
 
Alan m said:
sanding is a waste of paper. warm soapy water and a sponge. sponge it on a big area then go back to the start and sponge again doing a small area ( you will work out the area as you go) then get a wide scraper and scrape it off. it sould slid right offwith very little efford. then wash down to remove extra glue. id save the sander for after all that for stubourn bits

Yeh - that's the sort of thing I thought from "way back" experience ... but I thought things must have changes considerably over the years ...

Last time I stripped wallpaper was 16 years ago after all.
 
Noah Nordrum said:
Somebody, I won't say who, decided that the textured wallpaper in the kitchen had to go. It's on top of plaster, and so far it's come off really easily with a chisel to get under and then just peals off. However, it does leave some glue and backing on the wall. I can get it down to plaster with a scraper, but I figured it would go a lot faster/easier with the RO150.

Any suggestions on what paper(s) to use?

I can post some pics if it makes a difference.

We're going to put a thin plaster coat on it and then paint it. I'm going to have somebody do the actual plaster work, but wanted to get all the prep work done myself. How far down do I need to go? smooth plaster/no glue? some glue okay?

Thanks!

rent a steamer it will save you the aggravation
 
sancho57 said:
Noah Nordrum said:
Somebody, I won't say who, decided that the textured wallpaper in the kitchen had to go. It's on top of plaster, and so far it's come off really easily with a chisel to get under and then just peals off. However, it does leave some glue and backing on the wall. I can get it down to plaster with a scraper, but I figured it would go a lot faster/easier with the RO150.

Any suggestions on what paper(s) to use?

I can post some pics if it makes a difference.

We're going to put a thin plaster coat on it and then paint it. I'm going to have somebody do the actual plaster work, but wanted to get all the prep work done myself. How far down do I need to go? smooth plaster/no glue? some glue okay?

Thanks!

rent a steamer it will save you the aggravation

be carfull they sometimes lift off the plaster
 
Hardware stores sell a device that fits in the palm of your hand.  It has all kinds of little rotary spurs (wheelies) on the other side.  Rub the wall paper down and these spurs make all kinds of small perforations in the wallpaper.  Buy some of the wall paper remover that theses stores sell.  Mix it with water and brush over the wall paper.  This will soak through the holes  and dissolve the paste underneath.  The products are enzymes so they take a little while to work.  The only time it failed me was when I had a real thick wall paper that acted like it was covered in plastic.  I just never got the enzymes to get down through.  Rented the steamer and it pushed through the slits.
 
RDMuller said:
Hardware stores sell a device that fits in the palm of your hand.  It has all kinds of little rotary spurs (wheelies) on the other side.  Rub the wall paper down and these spurs make all kinds of small perforations in the wallpaper.  Buy some of the wall paper remover that theses stores sell.  Mix it with water and brush over the wall paper.  This will soak through the holes  and dissolve the paste underneath.  The products are enzymes so they take a little while to work.  The only time it failed me was when I had a real thick wall paper that acted like it was covered in plastic.   I just never got the enzymes to get down through.   Rented the steamer and it pushed through the slits.

The zinsser paper tiger and a bottle of Dif. http://www.zinsseruk.com/shop/ProductList.aspx?cId=134
Then sugar soap..

John..
 
In Europe even Festool sells a product for perforating wallpaper.
It's called the FAKIR TP 220. And costs 163 euros/$215.
Probably NAINA because it looks dangerous and somebody might have other purposes with it.
pkom_brt_tp220_495747_p_01a.png
 
Noah

As a paint contractor, my company does a good bit of stripping every year.

DIF stripper is the most effective. Apply using a pump sprayer (plastic sheeting for protection in any are you work, taped right up to the baseboard top edge), and scrape/peel with a dulled 6" mud knife. Keep applying until all layers and glue residue are gone. Let dry. Oil prime prior to plaster application. Prime again after plaster and check for final skims prior to painting. It's a messy task.

I love my sanders, but this is not a sanding task.
 
Scott,

Try fabric softener, a lot cheeper and works better. Once you use it you will never use the wallpaper striper again.

I agree about sealing with an oil product. SWP sells product just for this.

Tom
 
I removed wallpaper from my master bath, it was put up when the house was new so they put it on the sheet rock without any primer.  To say it was stuck is a understatement.  I used wallpaper stripper to remove the paper but the glue would not come off for anything in the world  so I sanded it with 180 on my ETS 150 then primed it with KILZ low oder oil base.
 
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