Repeatable kerf lines with wide boards in a MFT top with tracksaw

[schneems]

For cross cuts and shorter pieces I use my tracksaw on my MFT with some dogs. This helps me shoot 90 degrees and means that i'm using the same kerf in the MFT top again and again which reduces wear and tear on the table top.

When i'm cutting something really wide, such as i'm ripping something the length of the 1900 rail, then I cannot use my dogs to position my track. I try to position my track in roughly the same spot each time, but since I don't have any physical registers it comes out slightly different and then I end up with a variety of kerf lines running the length of the mft table. I was wondering how you all deal with this issue?

 

[thender]

At some point, we need to look at the MFT top as something with limited life, like a saw blade or router bit.  When your top gets cut up so badly it bugs you, replace it and move on.

Alternatively, put a couple sacrificial boards (or foam blocks) under your work, so they get cut up instead of the top. Sort of the way you would do it if you were cutting on the garage floor.

If you have watched Ron Paulk's youtubes for example, he has a couple of sacrificial boards that he uses over and over and over, saving his bench top. 

Hope this helps!

 

[schneems]

I had considered using foam boards. Wasn't sure if there was another way or not. I'm mostly asking due to this threadhttps://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...d-with-a-ts75/msg600177/?topicseen#msg600177. One of the issues i'm seeing now is poor dust collection and one of the possible culprits is too many kerf lines.

I don't mind replacing the MFT from time to time, but I also want to get my money's worth out of it.

 

[tomp]

I've seen ads for "spacers" that fit in the MFT holes but at what I thought were ridiculous prices. I saw these MFT Stand-Offs and bought some to try (don't remember paying that much for them but....). I also bought some nylon washers with an ID to match the projection and installed them to make the support surface higher off the table. That has the added benefit of providing a lip around the outside which makes it easier to remove from the hole. I thought I had a photo showing them in use but can't find it at the moment.

 

[Vondawg]

I have a sheet of plywood and 2” foam panel to match and I like the extra room to work on, dust collection works well and the set up leans against the wall, out of the way, with a couple folding saw horses, until needed. Since I’m often alone I have a one handed plywood carrier that hangs there also to center and easily flip the plywood up on the saw horses. If that sounds too large and cumbersome ‘search’ for [member=44099]Cheese[/member]’s, slick set up of foam half sheets domino’d together that packs away in a nice small package

 

[Mario Turcot]

IMO for a maximum dust control, you want a flat surface. Any spacers or holes will leave room for the dust to escape and create tear out. This is the main reason I don't have a MFT/3.

Foam seems to give the best result.

 

[Birdhunter]

I had to cut some full length plywood (8 feet) using my TS55. I bought 8 sheets of 1" rigid foam and placed them under the plywood. The cut went about 1/4" into the foam. Worked great.

 

[Df1k1]

At some point, we need to look at the MFT top as something with limited life, like a saw blade or router bit.  When your top gets cut up so badly it bugs you, replace it and move on.

Alternatively, put a couple sacrificial boards (or foam blocks) under your work, so they get cut up instead of the top. Sort of the way you would do it if you were cutting on the garage floor.

If you have watched Ron Paulk's youtubes for example, he has a couple of sacrificial boards that he uses over and over and over, saving his bench top. 

Hope this helps!

Completely agree. Also if I’m not mistaken the MFT can be turned upside down for a nice clean top again

 

[Dusty.House]

I've seen ads for "spacers" that fit in the MFT holes but at what I thought were ridiculous prices. I saw these MFT Stand-Offs and bought some to try (don't remember paying that much for them but....). I also bought some nylon washers with an ID to match the projection and installed them to make the support surface higher off the table. That has the added benefit of providing a lip around the outside which makes it easier to remove from the hole. I thought I had a photo showing them in use but can't find it at the moment.

Interesting, I’ve been playing with creating some 3D printed pieces just like that!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cheese]

This is what [member=41086]Vondawg[/member] was referring to. A 4 x 8 sheet of foam cut into thirds. The 32" x 48" panels are easy to handle and easy to store. Currently 2 of them remain out in the garage while I'm using the 3rd one on a home made MFT in the basement.

In the summer if the project isn't large and I don't need to set up the cutting table, I'll place one of the foam panels on the teak table outside and perform all the cutting & routing chores on it.

The Dominos are not mandatory but become useful if there is a slight breeze. They keep the panels together and prevent the small individual panels from becoming sails.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

 

[StevoWevo]

I made my own bench (not mobil) with a replaceable 1/4” hardboard top with separate replaceable strip sections where hopefully all my kerfs will end up. I suppose you could try and dado out the offending areas and try and make similar filler strips once you feel your top has been used up in that area. I don’t have a Festool MFT so I can’t say if this approach would work. Maybe worth a try before spending the coin on a new one. On the other hand, if I needed one for work every day I’d own two of them