replaceable tracksaw table top

[treesner]

Id like to build a tracksaw table with dog holes for cutting square.
Can I just do a 3/4 or 1" plywood then screw a sheet off hardboard onto that to replace later. Guess I'm wondering if I want to replace the hardboard from all the track saw cuts could I just remove the plywood and hardboard, screw on a new piece of hardboard and use the plywood to quickly drill through the hardboard as I'm thinking its ok of that hole isn't super accurate since the plywood would be the wider part and keep the dogs accurate.
second question, should I make the top as a portion box or just use single sheet of ply?

like the look of this one

 

[Bertotti]

I have thought about routing a channel in a nicer table to as a sacrificial strip Incan swap out now and then. I figure .25 should work. I have not tired this yet but it seems viable in my head.

 

[treesner]

I have thought about routing a channel in a nicer table to as a sacrificial strip Incan swap out now and then. I figure .25 should work. I have not tired this yet but it seems viable in my head.

oh interesting just a strip where you cut, hmm. I think I end up cutting both ways and I think the point oof the tracks is to move the track not the huge piece of wood so guess that kind of defeats the purpose if you have to move the wood to the cut area. still more efficient than table saw though

 

[tjskinny]

There are several folks how have added a replaceable kerf strip to there MFT style tables.

See this example from AtomicRyan:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/bfmft-build/30/

Reply 32 has a good picture of the strip.

 

[Bertotti]

I have thought about routing a channel in a nicer table to as a sacrificial strip Incan swap out now and then. I figure .25 should work. I have not tired this yet but it seems viable in my head.

oh interesting just a strip where you cut, hmm. I think I end up cutting both ways and I think the point oof the tracks is to move the track not the huge piece of wood so guess that kind of defeats the purpose if you have to move the wood to the cut area. still more efficient than table saw though

I thought that way at first. I was all excited to get into this set up. But once I had the mft 3 table and started doing cuts I found with the limited space I had I couldn't move large stock around. i started using the mft which became mostly stationary as my cutting station for everything but large stock and oddly enough I rarely cut all over the top. There were two places that got the majority of the work. If I I am breaking stock down I have the centipede out in the open with some 2x on to and my home made mft on it. ANd for large sheet goods I still put blocks on the ground or floor and lay the long 3000 guide down with or without a bit connected to it and cut on the ground or floor. It works for me. I will be making about four sacrificial strips for my mft3 because it will work for me. Good luck coming up with what works for you. It can be challenging.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi [member=57611]treesner[/member]

I always use good quality MDF for my tracksaw cutting stations as it is not too expensive and machines well when doing the 20 mm dog holes. For me the tracksaw cutting station is not a thing of beauty to be admired for years or even days to come - it is a tool, just like any other, and can easily be replaced when required. I do not get worried about cuts, bumps or spills.

Peter

 

[Vondawg]

^This^.... Well stated

 

[afish]

Im with Peter.  I just use MDF and make a new top when needed.  You will be surprised how cut up a top will be before needing to be replaced.  My first top I had cuts everywhere and in every direction possible even diagonally.  The top only lasted a short time 6 months of heavy cutting, truthfully it could have went longer but I figured for 20 something bucks I would just make another. Drilling all those holes is not my idea of fun so now I put some scraps or 5 gallon paint sticks under my sheet goods if im going to get crazy.  The top I have now has already lasted twice as long as the first and only has one cut line in it.  Once I have all my sheet material ripped I set up the fence and crosscut everything using the same spot on the table. I used a piece of 80/20 with a couple UJK anchor dogs to attach it to the MFT.  so it only takes a few seconds to put it on or take it off if needed. 

 

[MikeGE]

I'm building my table based on Ryan's design and will be using a 50mm-wide sacrificial strip of 8mm HDPE.  I have a 1000x500mm sheet of 8mm black HDPE that I bought for another project and didn't use.  I'll be able to make nine strips with this, which should last me a while.

 

[sancho57]

=3s


just make it stationary

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Mine is done by replacing the last 15" or so of the table top. It is an entire 4' x 8' sheet of white melamine. After the original kerf was chewed up by cutting bevels, I cut the whole end off and made a new one. I attached it with a few Dominos and a couple of Lamello Zeta Clamex joiners. It only takes a few minutes to make a new one and I can make it longer if needed.