Replacing driveway: concrete or blacktop

[kfitzsimons]

We're replacing our typical two car wide driveway. It's probably 70 feet long. Blacktop now and in really bad condition. There's a 12" strip of concrete at the garage door (between the garage floor and where the blacktop begins) that needs to be replaced too. Blacktop is going to be less expensive, but will require occasional sealing. I'll probably be doing that myself. Concrete is more expensive and can crack, stain, and pit.  But it's nice looking. We'll be staying in this house for 10 - 20 more years so I want it to last. Any thoughts? What do I need to ask the contractor to make sure his / her technique is the best practice?
    Thanks, Kevin

 

[tbellemare]

Something that's become popular in McMansions around here is concrete strips where the tires will roll and gravel around. It actually looks pretty nice with the right gravel that complements the exterior of the house.

Tom

 

[jmbfestool]

Dont know what concrete you've seen but I find it ugly.  Unless your on about pattern concrete but if not I wouldnt use concrete for the reasons you mentioned for 1 and also its not nice looking.

I would use tarmac which doesnt cost that much and lasts a long time it doesn't crack if the base is done well. You can get different colours not sayin I would get a different colour but just saying its an option.

We've done block paving on our drive which in my opinion looks nicest. I dont know if you have problems with weeds but in the UK we do so I used a hard wearing sealer soon as the block paving was laid and no weeds yet! [big grin].

JMB

 

[nickao]

Oh here in the US they are doing AMAZING things with concrete. You should see my neighbors driveway, just fantastic. He is a Concrete contractor and this thing is really nice. From 5 feet away I swore it was stone pavers. The color, texture and everything is perfect.

 

[jmbfestool]

Oh here in the US they are doing AMAZING things with concrete. You should see my neighbors driveway, just fantastic. He is a Concrete contractor and this thing is really nice. From 5 feet away I swore it was stone pavers. The color, texture and everything is perfect.

Thats what I ment with Pattern. I have seen concrete in red colour and paving like pattern. 

JMB

 

[peter halle]

For those who have never seen stamped concrete.  For our U.K. friends, here is how they imitate your architecture here in the US.

[attachthumb=#]

Peter

 

[tbellemare]

It's not exactly an upper crust way to present concrete but if, as I have, you already have a bunch of concrete showing, you can stain it and make it look a lot better in a few minutes...

[attachthumb=#1]

Tom

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Stamped concrete is expensive.

My brother works for this guy:

http://www.wilmerconcrete.com/

I have done several sets of stamped steps as well.

I see you are in Ohio, I would advise against stamped concrete if you have someone plow your drive way because they will destroy it with the plow.

Pour it 5" thick, make sure there is plenty of 1/2 bar in it, it has a good crushed limestone base and saw cuts about every 12' and get at least a 4000psi mix.

Should last you 20+ years and look good the whole time.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Concrete is more expensive and can crack, stain, and pit.  But it's nice looking. We'll be staying in this house for 10 - 20 more years so I want it to last. Any thoughts? What do I need to ask the contractor to make sure his / her technique is the best practice?
    Thanks, Kevin

The added cost of concrete is well worth it. As you already know, if you don't seal the asphalt every year, two at most, you will be replacing it in 10 to 15 years. Concrete doesn't crack or pit unless it was a poor job to begin with. My driveway has been in for 15 years and even with loaded semi trucks delivering lumber, it has not cracked. Salt water will make the concrete pit slightly, but the severe pitting you see on some is from poor concrete to begin with.

A second driveway will always be better than the original because there won't be any new settling. Make sure there is a good class-5 base after they pull the old driveway. A standard driveway is 3 to 4 inches thick (3 being quite poor). I had mine put down at 5-6 inches, which means I can have fully loaded semi trucks pull on to it without worrying about damage. Most damage occurs at the street, so make sure they don't skimp thickness there.

I am not up to date on concrete grades and binders, but some internet research should help you there. Make sure they have a full crew available when the load arrives so they can work it with plenty of time before it sets off. One of the biggest reasons for extreme pitting and slagging is from working a hot load. I went with a very light broom on mine. The contractor wanted to go coarser, but I am very glad I kept it light.

 

[Deansocial]

well here in the uk we have loads of stamped concrete and never liked the look of it. block paving doesnt do it for me either as its 10 a penny.

I like to see a mixture of surfaces to break the area up, some mac some paving normally,  we dont seal tarmac over here and never have problems with it, unless US asphalt is different uk tarmac

 

[Deansocial]

Oh here in the US they are doing AMAZING things with concrete. You should see my neighbors driveway, just fantastic. He is a Concrete contractor and this thing is really nice. From 5 feet away I swore it was stone pavers. The color, texture and everything is perfect.

Beleive it or not we are in the same century as you, i can remeber it from 22-23 years ago- before then i couldn't care as i was a kid

 

[nickao]

No this is not the stamped concrete of old. This system he uses just came out about 3or 4 years ago. The stamped concrete from 25 year ago you can tell it was stamped a block away, it broke up and was week and needed replacing in ten years.

The asphalt has to be sealed,. Around here Chicago where is goes from 60 below to 110 degrees the asphalt takes a beating.

Plus it is as weak as . I will shoot a picture of my driveway as well, I always park my van in the same spot and in 4 spots where the tires go the asphalt just sunk n. It took about 5 years, but still, concrete will not do that. We have a foot of compressed stone underneath, I don't know what more someone can do to prevent it. In the summer it just gets to hot and in the winter when its cold it chips.

 

[jmbfestool]

Yeah thats the same pattern I have seen but it was in RED  like I said above.  

Also like Dean said we have it here in the UK  like I said I have seen it in RED but not alot of people in the UK like it so its not that commen and isnt the cheapest option either.

Also like Dean mentioned  we dont seal our Tarmac but we dont get very high Tempratures so maybe thats why.

Look at all the pictures you can see what we UK people can do.(Well this one company)

http://www.kingsdriveways.co.uk/kings_driveways_portfolio.html

Here you go to to show you we do do it in the UK i just quickly googled it and this is the first UK company I found who do pattern concrete

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

For those who have never seen stamped concrete.  For our U.K. friends, here is how they imitate your architecture here in the US.

[attachthumb=#]

Peter

Your Picture looks like they are large slabs layed down.  I dont understand why the expansion joints have been made to go with the pattern joints would make a lot more sense to hide them abit.

JMB

 

[dltflt]

Oh here in the US they are doing AMAZING things with concrete. You should see my neighbors driveway, just fantastic. He is a Concrete contractor and this thing is really nice. From 5 feet away I swore it was stone pavers. The color, texture and everything is perfect.

They can do the same thing on asphalt.

I would go with asphalt for cost reasons and when it comes to repairs the asphalt is less labor and cost to fix also.  As for the correct questions to ask there is not any.  The best advice is to find a quality contractor that you can trust.  Sealing the asphalt only makes it look better it does not extend the life.  The best thing to to extend the life of asphalt is when the asphalt starts cracking seal those cracks with a rubberized asphalt.  This will keep the water from getting under the pavement and causing more crack.  Here is a website of a company that specializes in sealing products Sealing Products.  They do not do the work.  Hope this helps.  If you would like more information PM me and I'm sure I tell more about this than you really care to know.

 

[nickao]

No doubt the concrete is VERY expensive, still if I had money to burn that's what I would have, with some nice pavers, crushed gravel and other materials as well.

Mixed materials is where design is at right now, for driveways, exteriors and even cabinets and flooring.

My driveway is just to big and I do not see ever having enough money to change it to Crete. My home wouldn't increase in value becasue of it either, but many homes in many areas would. Heck just to repair it with Asphalt I got 3 quotes that were sky high. To completely remove it and start new is about 5000.00, 15,000.00 for crete. It is just staying as is and that's it for now. Some guy came by and wanted 500.00 just to seal it!

 

[peter halle]

Regarding concrete, based on your location, make sure that you specify air- entrained concrete.  The tiny air bubbles allow space for some expansion during freezing cycles and helps to prevent spalling and pitting.  If you have any trees near your driveway, asphalt is more flexible than concrete and will deal with roots better.

If you like the look of grass, here is an alternative. Driveable Grass

Peter

 

[kfitzsimons]

Thanks for the info guys.  I'm having a few contractors come out for estimates. I don't have any idea as far as costs, but I'm going to guess $5,000 for asphalt and $12,000 for concrete.  I'll let you know what the numbers are just for kicks.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Concrete has it all over blacktop IMHO.

My place in PA has about 6,000 sq feet of blacktop and it is a pain having it sealed all the time and the oil comes in on your shoes and slowly stains your floors and tile.  Sealing runs about $600 a year too and it still comes apart over time.

My place in NC has concrete with fiber in it and it does get some staining over time but holds up much better and needs little maintenance...and it doesnt follow us into the house like the blacktop oil does...

I feel the cost is about equal when you take into consideration the sealing of the blacktop every year or two over the lifetime of the two products.  Also making sure you have a good stable base and if using blacktop a thick enough base coat and then a finer topcoat helps too.  Just some things to look out for in my experience.

Best,
Todd

 

[Deansocial]

resin bond aggregate look good aswell. or tart an old drive up with spray crete