Replacing pad on ETS sander

lawhoo

Member
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
182
OK, I realize that this might be the stupidest question ever posted on the FOG, but here goes.  I've never changed the pad on my ETS 150.  Now I'm trying to, but I'm finding it deceptively hard.  I know I have to loosen and remove the screw holding the old pad.  The problem is that turning the head of the screw simply rotates the pad in the same direction, rather than loosening the screw.  Obviously, I need to stop the rotation of the pad, but how do I do that without damaging it?
 
I got the old pad off, and I suspect it will be easier next time, when the screw won't be quite as tight as it was originally.
 
Yup... this sure is a challenge! I had to replace my ETS pad a couple months ago and was very surprised by how much force it takes.

For my ETS I managed to get the screw loose by sticking a sheet of coarse sandpaper on the pad, and pressing the sander down on my MFT (lined it up so I can get at the screw through one of the MFT holes). The sandpaper helps to keep the pad from rotating and this allowed me to get the pad off. It's still not easy though!

If you don't have an MFT you can drill a hole through a scrap piece of wood (for the hex key) and get it off that way. Again, using sandpaper to stop the rotation.
 
They seem to come from the factory with the hex bolt very tight, clamp the sander pad in a wood vise with a rag, quick and simple.
 
I had the same problem and called festool, their advice was to place the sander on its side on an solid surface and push down hard with one hand to stop rotation of the pad while with the other hand untighten. They agreed that they come that tight when you buy them.
 
I clamps the "handle" of the hex key in a case, engage it in the bolt, then use my hands to turn the pad.
 
I'm in the same exact predicament! Called Festool and got the same answer. Mine is REALLY tight - I've tried multiple times even with an extension on the allen key to get more torque - no go. I will try some of the ideas here, but I'm afraid of stripping the bolt head. If I can't get it loose, then it's off to Festool because it's only a few months old. Silly to send it in for something like this, but what am I to do if I can't get it loose.
 
Situations like this are why I love my Milwaukee 12V impact driver.  It does not have enough torque to normally break off screw and easily breaks them loose.  I replace and rehang commercial steel doors and in the old days, normally had to drill out most hinge screws.  Some of these screws have been in place for decades and depending upon the envoirment conditions are often rusted fast.  The little Milwauke breaks 90% of these loose.  I even use it to free the tiny #one screw that hold the tail pieces on commercial mortise locks loose.
 
rst said:
Situations like this are why I love my Milwaukee 12V impact driver.  It does not have enough torque to normally break off screw and easily breaks them loose.  I replace and rehang commercial steel doors and in the old days, normally had to drill out most hinge screws.  Some of these screws have been in place for decades and depending upon the envoirment conditions are often rusted fast.  The little Milwauke breaks 90% of these loose.  I even use it to free the tiny #one screw that hold the tail pieces on commercial mortise locks loose.

Good call on the impact driver. [thumbs up]
 
I know this is an old thread, but it just saved my bacon!  I needed to change the pad on my ETS 150/3 yesterday and could not budge the screw.  I tried everything I could think of to break it loose.  I was wondering if I was going to have to send my sander in to Festool for such a simple thing? [crying]  And this was not the first time I had removed my pad.....previously no problems.  OK, this morning as I was on FOG I thought someone here surely has solved this problem before.  Eureka!  IMPACT DRIVER made quick work of it.  I thought I would post to keep this solution current.  Thanks FOG!
 
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