We've got a bunch of maple, some of which has some interesting figure on it, and I was going to try to use it for some panels. I don't have a bandsaw, or room for one so book matching grain patterns requires some other solution, but I think I've got one: Use the Festool MFT table to hold the board, and with careful alignment I can use the TS55 to cut 2" deep from either side to resaw 4" thick lumber.
First, I started by measuring the blade kerf.
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Next, I started by moving the rail down along the end of the table, and clamping the board in place. Note the spacer under the rail, I wanted to raise up the board so I wasn't cutting the clamped section.
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I measured the board thickness, at a couple of places.
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Then I set up the rail so that the saw would cut down the middle of the board
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I found that a light mallet helped me to fine tune the rail adjustment.
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When I'd cut the first side, I flipped over the board, placed spacers in the gap. The spacers were a little large, which was the wrong thing to do, I should have tried to match the kerf directly. Here are the final boards. Alignment could be better, these will work with a few passes through the planer. Note also all the burning, at least on one side this is the result of those large spacers I mentioned, and could be solved with some spacers that are the saw kerf thick at the top, and a little narrower at the bottom, so that the clamping tries to pull the new cut apart.
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First, I started by measuring the blade kerf.
[attachthumb=1]
Next, I started by moving the rail down along the end of the table, and clamping the board in place. Note the spacer under the rail, I wanted to raise up the board so I wasn't cutting the clamped section.
[attachthumb=2]
I measured the board thickness, at a couple of places.
[attachthumb=3]
Then I set up the rail so that the saw would cut down the middle of the board
[attachthumb=4]
I found that a light mallet helped me to fine tune the rail adjustment.
[attachthumb=5]
When I'd cut the first side, I flipped over the board, placed spacers in the gap. The spacers were a little large, which was the wrong thing to do, I should have tried to match the kerf directly. Here are the final boards. Alignment could be better, these will work with a few passes through the planer. Note also all the burning, at least on one side this is the result of those large spacers I mentioned, and could be solved with some spacers that are the saw kerf thick at the top, and a little narrower at the bottom, so that the clamping tries to pull the new cut apart.
[attachthumb=7]
