Review of Festool DOMINO? DF 500 Q SET Product No . 574307 (is it easy?)

decoy said:
I see that you've cut one hole with a snug fit, and the other with a looser fit.

I agree with that, but I found it had a downside. Using all snug  fitting holes made it extremely difficult for me to dry fit and then pull apart my projects to add glue. So, I started using looser fit holes. Doesn't make much of a difference since most of the Domino tenon gluing surfaces are the wider flat parts.
 
decoy said:
I see that you've cut one hole with a snug fit, and the other with a looser fit. I see that the manual also recommends this. But is it really necessary? The machine is so precise that I have no problems getting superb fit even when both holes are on the smallest setting.

If you are doing a row of dominoes, mortising wider tenons on one piece makes sense as it allows for measuring errors.
 
Richard Leon said:
If you are doing a row of dominoes, mortising wider tenons on one piece makes sense as it allows for measuring errors.

What's the point in measuring, if you're going to do it poorly? ;)

I'm just wondering if it's any reason related to wood movement etc..
 
decoy said:
Richard Leon said:
If you are doing a row of dominoes, mortising wider tenons on one piece makes sense as it allows for measuring errors.

What's the point in measuring, if you're going to do it poorly? ;)

I'm just wondering if it's any reason related to wood movement etc..

Even though I describe using the wide position in the manual, I have never actually used it for a personal project. I prefer to carefully mark and plunge my locations. The main intent of the wider slots is when you use a previous mortise position to register the next. Any error in any single mortise position will cascade through all of the remaining mortise positions. To borrow CADD terminology, Mortise locations are "relative" when their spacing is determined from a previous location, and "absolute" when their location is taken from a fixed point.
 
The invention of Festool's Domino System is a major advance in woodworking. Clearly much engineering energy was devoted to the original spring-loaded register pins. When user feed-back showed those pins could get in the way of Domino use, Festool brought out a new Domino with flip-out registration paddles.

As it happens I own one of each. I was one of the first in Los Angeles to receive my older Domino, the one with the pins. In all the years I have owned it I have never located a subsequent mortise using the pins or paddles.

For my work I always draw center lines on both parts, as I do with biscuit joints. Just as when I use CADD to instruct CNC machines, I prefer absolute measurements.

There is a reason Festool provides 3 settings for mortise width. My selection is based on my expectation of the wood expanding or contracting, not to cover my mistakes locating the center line. If I am using a series of Dominoes in a line over 1800mm, I normally make the center mortise minimum width. Often I do not glue that floating Domino tendon. Then as I fan out from the center I keep the mortises minimum, gluing the others. If I expect the wood to expand or contract, the mortises on one part remain minimum and the Domino is glued into those. The corresponding mortises will be wider, with the Domino floating in them unglued.
 
To borrow CADD terminology, Mortise locations are "relative" when their spacing is determined from a previous location, and "absolute" when their location is taken from a fixed point.
I find it easier to work relative whenever possible. I find that this does not preclude using the tight setting.  The reason that I use a looser setting is because the short open times where I live make working quickly when doing glue up a necessity.
 
I'm just a weekend warrior hobbyist ... and not a very good one, but here are my views of my Domino:

(a) I found I wasn't getting things lined up properly.
Found a brilliant article on the Domino:

http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/Getting_the_most_from_the_Festool_Domino_Machine.pdf

This taught me how to align the plastic window precisely

(b) I haven't used the registration pins - I just draw lines where I want the domino's and cut to the pencil marks

(c) I found the fit to be extremely tight. I made a TV shelf out of 50mm thick maple connected side by side. After dry fitting it, it took me a few days to figure out how to get it apart again without damaging it so I could glue it! Since then I have always used holes wider than the domino's. The fit is still super tight and gives a little latitude for (unusual) error

(d) My last point is going to sound a little strange. I find the Domino a "peaceful" tool to use. Because it feels so secure and the cutting bit is so far away from the hands and the action is so smooth, it is an easy tool to use without the worry factor.

 
Charlie Maus said:
You got me in trouble. [smile] I just ordered one. Now the wait

Charlie

It will make a nice Christmas present, you be happy you bought it.
 
Mavrik said:
(b) I haven't used the registration pins - I just draw lines where I want the domino's and cut to the pencil marks

I also find that using Pencil lines is easiest way too cut Domino mortises.
 
Well, I'm a Domino virgin no more.  Just a very simple project, replacing the rotten window frame in my garage.  4 pieces of wood, ends cut at 45 degrees with the Kapex, rebate cut out with a table saw, dominoed together.  Brilliant, very simple - I just used pencil marks as I would a biscuit jointer. 

 
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