Revised Festool USA Microsite - Fabulous

ccarrolladams said:
Perhaps it is just me, but I expect every cabinet maker I hire to have the skills and experience to feel from the action of a tool and looking at the results to know when a bit, blade, knife or plane iron needs to be sharpened. They are also expected to know which of these tools or cutters should be sharpened or touched-up personally and which should be added to the collection box to be handled by our sharpening/grinding vendor.

I'm an engineer and smart enough to realize that "feel" is a subjective thing and would prefer more concrete criteria to base it on.

Besides, you couldn't afford to hire me.... ;)
 
fritter63 said:
Hey Shane, would be good get some guidelines from Festool about how often the blades need to be resharpened for Bamboo vs. regular hardwoods. Or maybe just a guideline on what to check on the blade in general to determine that it needs resharpening!

I think a degradation in cut quality and/or speed is the best indicator. You can generally just clean the blade with a good blade cleaner periodically to maintain it and achieve longer life.

I don't have the expertise on the subject to tell you if there's a way to determine wear just by looking at the carbide. Maybe one of our forum blade gurus can answer that question.
 
Shane Holland said:
fritter63 said:
Hey Shane, would be good get some guidelines from Festool about how often the blades need to be resharpened for Bamboo vs. regular hardwoods. Or maybe just a guideline on what to check on the blade in general to determine that it needs resharpening!

I think a degradation in cut quality and/or speed is the best indicator. You can generally just clean the blade with a good blade cleaner periodically to maintain it and achieve longer life.

I don't have the expertise on the subject to tell you if there's a way to determine wear just by looking at the carbide. Maybe one of our forum blade gurus can answer that question.

Not a guru, but I think there are too many variables to know by looking at a blade whether it's dull or not. I can tell immediately whether a blade is dull or not when I make my first plunge or get 4-5 inches into a cut. Unless the blade has been over heated because it wasn't cleaned etc it's difficult to tell by just looking at it. If all the user has been cutting is MDF, the blade could look like crap from the glue/resin on the blade but it could actually not be that dull. After cleaning the blade, it could be ok.
Some blades that I have had in my systainer look bad because of humidity, but still cuts plywood cleanly. Trying to cut some Maple or other hard wood with this same blade would completely slow it down and over heat the saw.
Tim
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
Peter Halle said:
Joseph C said:
Hey guys,

I was watching the video, and the volume levels were all over the map (between voiceovers and "men on the street")

Anyone else getting that ?

Which video were you referring to?

Peter

The one with the bearded guy sounded pretty good....
Kinda reminded my of a hippy  [big grin]
 
Anybody have any idea what kind of wood was used on on the outer parts of that headboard? That bed is a work of art!
Gary
 
Gneyenhuis said:
Anybody have any idea what kind of wood was used on on the outer parts of that headboard? That bed is a work of art!
Gary

Totally agree. Incredibly creative design.
 
You can tell if a blade needs sharpening by looking at it but you need a small microscope with a light to look at it ;D
I bought a small microscope for looking at blades years ago & now would not be without one. The one I have is adjustable from 60 to 100 x magnification.
I was getting blades back from my sharp shop that did not cut a lot better than before I sent them in & "they don't seem sharp" is just to subjective to come to any clear conclusion.
I took a blade back that he had sharpened with the protective material still on most of the blade to indicate I had not used it & showed him the teeth under the microscope. It was clear he was grinding only the top of the teeth & not the face. My blades now come back properly sharpened but I still take a look at them with the microscope to be sure.

You can see very clearly when the teeth start to round over & if you continue to use the blade you can get fractures in the teeth. Of course if you need two hands to push the blade through the lumber that could an indicator also ::)

Gerry

 
Oldwood said:
You can tell if a blade needs sharpening by looking at it but you need a small microscope with a light to look at it ;D
I bought a small microscope for looking at blades years ago & now would not be without one. The one I have is adjustable from 60 to 100 x magnification.

Gerry:
Some  time ago I bought a Intel Play QX3 for my son. For the price it is an amazing little machine. Your comment has made me want to go find it and look at my blades.
Tim
 
Oldwood said:
.

You can see very clearly when the teeth start to round over & if you continue to use the blade you can get fractures in the teeth. Of course if you need two hands to push the blade through the lumber that could an indicator also ::)

Gerry

True that! Good idea on the microscope.

The trick is I'd rather not "feel" it while cutting expensive material for my project!
 
Oldwood said:
You can tell if a blade needs sharpening by looking at it but you need a small microscope with a light to look at it ;D
I bought a small microscope for looking at blades years ago & now would not be without one. The one I have is adjustable from 60 to 100 x magnification.
I was getting blades back from my sharp shop that did not cut a lot better than before I sent them in & "they don't seem sharp" is just to subjective to come to any clear conclusion.
I took a blade back that he had sharpened with the protective material still on most of the blade to indicate I had not used it & showed him the teeth under the microscope. It was clear he was grinding only the top of the teeth & not the face. My blades now come back properly sharpened but I still take a look at them with the microscope to be sure.

You can see very clearly when the teeth start to round over & if you continue to use the blade you can get fractures in the teeth. Of course if you need two hands to push the blade through the lumber that could an indicator also ::)

Gerry
Do you need the 100 power?  I have a microscope that has (I think) 30 and 60 power.  I tried to post this a few minutes ago but it seems to have got lost in cyberspace.  I hope this doesn't show twice.
Thank you
Jon
 
Tim,

I think the usb microscopes would be great fun. You could save pictures to you computer for comparison at a later date. I don't know how they would be to perch on the edge of a saw blade & get it to focus? Let us know if you get it working.

Jon,

60 X is fine & a little bit less of a fiddle to get it to focus.

Gerry
 
Shane, nice new website.  I hope you don't mind that I proofread it a little for you.  On the first page under "What can you do with one?" I think you left out the word "over" in the first sentence.  Then going halfway down the page and to the left side and clicking on "common tasks" takes you to another page that has a paragraph on "bevels & miters" but it gives the description for "flooring".
Nice videos.  
 
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