Revised toy dog prototype.

Packard

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I was straightening up my wood scrap pile and I had a bunch of off-cuts of 2-1/2” x 3/4” poplar.  What could I make from that?  Dachshunds!

My prototype is below.  The wood section is 7-1/2” long by 2-1/2” tall from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet (not including the wheels).

The ears are light weight leather, hand saddle stitched to the wood through drilled holes.

The tail is the same leather hand saddle stitched to a 3/8” diameter dowel which I thinned out where the leather is stitched on.  I used a utility knife to cut the fringe on the tail.

I used a small radius round over bit for the entire wood section.  A larger round over bit would look good for the body, but how then to transition to a smaller bit for the face?

I’m not sure I will actually make this item.  The wood is finished with shellac which is non-toxic.  But is the leather non-toxic? There is no way to check. 

I could switch to felt, but I think felt will tear easily—certainly more easily than leather which is easy to cut but difficult to tear.

Would a label that said, “Wooden toys are not suitable for teething children” be sufficient for that purpose?  Or “For children 3 years or older”.  My internet research shows that almost all children are done teething by 2-1/2 years of age.

Or drop this entirely.  Or glue on wooden ears, which would alter the personality of the dog.

This also would be the most time consuming to produce of all the toys I am making.

On the other hand, I am fond of the look of this toy.

Opinions?

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This prototype, upon further consideration, is not going forward.  A couple of deficiencies:

First, while I can state that the applied wood finish is non-toxic, I could not make any claims regarding the leather.

And the second reason (and more telling to me), is that the toy Dachshund with wheels reminds me too much of those with those wheel chair devices.  And while they get around pretty well when I see the videos, I know that when they are home they have to drag themselves around the room. 

So I needed to make a change so that the toy did not remind me of the doggy wheelchairs.

I’m pretty sure I have never seen a Dachshund running at full speed.  Usually they are tiptoeing behind someone the the thinnest of leashes.  But there are plenty of images online of them running. And they look joyous.  So that is what I am modeling the revision on.

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And like the real dog, asymmetry of the right and left ears is is a part of the design. 

The body is poplar.  The ears and tail are 1/4” thick oak.  The tail is set in a mortise cut in the rear of the dog.  Glue attaches the ears and the tail.  The finish is 2 coats of shellac plus bees wax as a final coat.  The wheels, a purchased item, are birch.

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The ears up is a nice touch. Another version might have one ear up and one down. You could also think about dimensioning the interior of ears a bit rather than a flat surface in the up configuration.
 
mcfal12 said:
The ears up is a nice touch. Another version might have one ear up and one down. You could also think about dimensioning the interior of ears a bit rather than a flat surface in the up configuration.

One ear up, one ear down.  We were thinking alike, but my photo misrepresented the toy.  The image below was taken with the lens at the same height as the dog’s eye.  You can see entirely through the eye.  And at this angle it is apparent that the ears are not aligned. 

I may misalign them even further. 

I had considered grinding in some texture on the tail.  I hadn’t thought to cup the inside of the ears.  The wood is only 1/4” thick.  So I don’t know how noticeable it will appear.  I with try both of those ideas on the next version.

I will probably go at it with the Dremel.

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With toys for this age group, you are designing for the parents.  So “cute” was one of the primary goals.

Thanks for the encouraging post.
 
I hadn’t thought of that.  But giving him a name makes perfect sense.  I’ll think about it. 

These are going to be donated for next year’s Christmas distribution.  I have three other toys in the works.  I probably should come up with names for all of them.

Thanks.

Packard
 
I decided to try to steam bend the ears into a slight curve.  I have cut the ear blanks out.  And I have them in the steamer.  The steamer is an old rice cooker.  It only allows for 30 minute intervals of steam.  After that it shuts off and I have to set it again.  But it is free and it generates copious amounts of steam.

I tested after 30 minutes.  It was not ready to bend at that time.  I am now up to 50 minutes, and I will try again in 10 minutes.

If someone out there knows how long to steam 1/4” thick red oak, it would save me a lot of effort in this.

Update:  I was able to put in close to 1/8” curve in the ear.  To which I carved out a bit more with a rotary sander.

It was difficult for me to capture the curve in the photo.  I will add it to a new chassis/body and post new images. 

It was a good bit of work.  I will have to make a judgement call on if it is worthwhile.

I should be able to get these ears glued onto a body tomorrow.  I will post more pics.  Steaming raised the grain significantly. 

For small parts, a vegetable steamer ($8.00 at my supermarket) works OK.  The steamer I have has the 30 minute limitation before shutting off.  Not ideal.  I bent at 1 hour.  A longer steam time might improve the bending. 

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The 2nd dog prototype is complete.  I am only waiting for the shellac to dry.  I will post images later.

Conclusion #1:  Simply carving the hollow in the ear is a fools’ errand.  When complete, the only person would would be aware of the carving would be the guy who carved it.  I would have to beef the ears up from 1/4” to 1/2” to make any impact.

Conclusion #2: Steaming small parts with a vegetable steamer works.  And the steamer is just $8.00.  But I used the rice cooker/steamer.  I steamed the ears for 1 hour.  And I made a clamping device to apply the pressure to make the bends.  I do realize that steam bending is normally done at right angles to the grain.  But for the modest bend I was making, bending parallel to the grain worked fine.  I think another 30 minutes would have been beneficial to the bend.

Conclusion #3:  Making the bends and adding the carving does not make sense for this project.  All the other items I am making have a Montessori/Amish-type simplicity to them.  The extra work towards realism is contrary to that design esthetic.  So I will be reverting to the flat ears, but perhaps making them more out of alignment.

Conclusion#4.  Giving Fido a name is a good idea.  And while Oscar is a perfectly good name, I will be going with “Ruggles”.  I have a history with “Ruggles”, he was my Doberman whose greatest joy was running flat out towards no purpose.  My personal history and the memory of his joy in running won out.  I am thankful for the suggestion however. 

I should be able to post some pictures later today (shellac dries fast).

 
Some shots taken at the toy’s eye-level.

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I will gift this along with the other toys, but the production run (about 10 pieces) will have flat ears and will be named “Ruggles”.

A side note:  When photographing a real dog, if you hold the camera at your own eye level, and then photograph your dog while he is seated and looking up at the camera, then the image will present the dog as kind and friendly.

But if you hold the camera at the dog’s eye level or lower, regardless of the breed, the dog will appear domineering and menacing.

The probable reason for this is that we are accustomed to seeing dogs from our own eye level.  But grab your phone and try both points of view while photographing your dog or cat.  You decide if that rule I put above is correct or not.
 
If I saw that on the shelf of a toy store - I'd buy it immediately for my granddaughter. It's just a lovely little thing. Well done on creating something so simple, but so appealing. I absolutely love it.
 
woodbutcherbower said:
If I saw that on the shelf of a toy store - I'd buy it immediately for my granddaughter. It's just a lovely little thing. Well done on creating something so simple, but so appealing. I absolutely love it.

Thanks for the attaboy.  I make nothing off of this.  Not even thanks as they are distributed by the charity agency.

So I appreciate that. 

I will have accumulated (probably) 50 of the various designs by next holiday season. It makes me feel good.

Mostly made from scrap, though it does not make sense to produce my own wheels.  I purchase them.

I also purchase the labels and plastic bags they are packed in.  Though this year I got a heat sealer and a 500 foot long roll of flat PVC bag material.  So less than before.

But shellac is going through the roof (it is non-toxic and easy to apply).  And I don’t generate any 1/4” thick solid wood, so that is purchased too.  I’m probably going to spend under $200.00.  Not bad.  It keeps me busy and out of bars, so in a way, a cost savings with beer costing nearly $7.00 per bottle in a bar.  So if I drink 30 less bottles of beer I am in the black on costs.  [big grin]
 
It looks happy, a happy Dachs!
Before I saw your photo of a real Dachs, it instantly reminded me of seeing a happy “flying” Dachs. By the way you have created it, it makes it much more appealing than what I’ve seen in the shops of similar wooden dogs (and other animals..)

Good work.
 

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Well I am sure that if you wanted some 1/4" material for your projects there would be some here willing to donate some to your cause.  I know that I can supply "rustic" - a.k.a mixture of sap and heartwood -  cherry and walnut for your endeavor to put smiles on kids' faces.

Let me know if I can help.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Well I am sure that if you wanted some 1/4" material for your projects there would be some here willing to donate some to your cause.  I know that I can supply "rustic" - a.k.a mixture of sap and heartwood -  cherry and walnut for your endeavor to put smiles on kids' faces.

Let me know if I can help.

Peter

Thanks for the offer.  I may take you up on that next year.  I purchased enough to make about 12 dogs ($16.00) for this year.

If anyone wants to produce some of these for your local charities, I would be glad to supply details.  It is a rewarding way to use small pieces of scrap (it’s better than throwing them alway).

I designed one car to be produced with a bandsaw (but my band saw was not up to the task).  That one and the others I produced using a scroll saw.  But pretty easy to make and no special skills.  It becomes a “process” when you make 10 or more, and fairly efficiently made.  If I saw these in a retail environment, I would expect to see a price of about $8.00 to $15.00 each.  I never costed these out.

I have an bench top oscillating belt sander, but my scroll saw skills have advanced to the point that I really don’t need that very often.  Small parts like this call out for hand sanding.

Mine carry a label that says:

Wooden Toys, AD/NS*
Handmade in New York
Non-Toxic finish
Ages 3+
Wood toys are not suitable for teething

*Always Donated/Never Sold

 
smorgasbord said:
Packard said:
Mostly made from scrap, though it does not make sense to produce my own wheels.  I purchase them.

I bought something similar to this 30 years ago and had fun making wheels out of scrap exotics. Only made a dozen or so, but it worked fine. Mine is dedicated to a particular size wheel:
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https://www.amazon.com/YUCHENGTECH-20-45mm-Carbide-Woodworking-Revolutions/dp/B01M26Y3HQ

I may look into that.  Right now the wheels cost $0.25 each—so $1.00 per toy.  I get them from Bearwood.com.  I did not shop around, so there may be better prices elsewhere.

I did discover that dowels from Lowes are not always round, not always to a specific size.

I now carry a wheel with me to select the dowel with the best fit.  These 1/4” diameter dowels appear to be drawn through a die to make them “round”.  Sometimes there is a nick in the die and you will see a ridge running the length of the dowel.  The larger diameter dowels appear to be round, so maybe cut on a lathe or special machine. 
 
There are a variety of dowel makers you can buy, from $20 things on Banggood/Amazon up to a couple hundred to four hundred dollar dowel making jigs from Lee Valley/Veritas. Many have blades that you could adjust to get you the perfect fit. And, of course, like the wheels you then get to choose what species you want.
 
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