Rip Dogs Redux

[rmwarren]

Richard,

Could a slide mechanism like the ones on Osbourne miter gauges work too? The same hole spacing would always have to be used. But the sliding mechanism would allow infinite adjustment, while notching the adjustment arm could allow for positive stops.

Nice idea, I was mulling a sliding bar of some sort but had not considered the indents. Best of both worlds.

Practically speaking, how adjustable does it need to be? 0-90 degrees? The stock angle thingie has detents @ 0/15/22.5/30/45/60/67.5/75/90. Which are must-have versus nice-to-have?

Based on spacing the dogs 3 holes apart (284mm) the adjustable arm would need to be over 275mm long, call is 12". When used in the 0 degree position it would often stick off the MFT top quite a ways, it's bound to get whacked and bent up.

RMW

 

[Sean KS]

Richard,

The arm can also be in the 0degree position if it is parallel to the miter fence. Get rid of the sliding action on the arm and just have a 275mm long arm. As the arm pivots on the dog the other end would need to slide along the miter fence on a pivoting connector. The scale to read the angle would be placed on the miter fence itself as well as the indents (if needed) which would reference off of the swing arm connector. Ask that nephew of yours how to calculate the trig for that one I guess?

The other option is to stick with the sliding Osbourne style. You can always move it farther up the table to change angles. The real issue it how to achieve the angles between the dog holes. Each hole forward gives you a certain angle and extending the arm changes that angle until you need to move to the next dog. That way you can still have a short extension arm.

In terms of the necessary indents. I'd stick to the ones trusted companies use. A good rule is what would Incra do. Speaking of which, their original incra jig reminds me a lot of a more robust Osbourne sliding arm.

 

[Lucky Dave]

Richard,

Your RIP Dogs have been most useful. Am very interested in obtaining the Guide Pin Brackets.

Dave

 

[JonSchuck]

Put me down for one (or a pair, if that's what's called for) of everything.

 

[rmwarren]

Just a quick update:

The basic (original) rip dogs are on order, along with the little bracket that attaches to the MFT fence. ETA is about a month.

The MFT guide pin bracket thingie is taking a wee bit longer, as it is a new design I want be certain not to make a silly mistake and order a couple grand worth of paperweights. The latest design looks like this:

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Trying to simplify the design and also remove anything likely to catch on shop aprons or other vital parts.  [wink]

I will update the thread again when they are in production.

Thanks.

RMW

 

[rustym]

Like the new look Richard.  I'll surely be wanting at least one set of those.

Rusty

 

[kkeus]

Interested!

Theun

 

[cvn72]

Hey Richard,

That 80/20 workbench you made looks sweet in your rip dog demo video.  Care to share the plans and part numbers of the materials you used to build yours?

 

[rmwarren]

Hey Richard,

That 80/20 workbench you made looks sweet in your rip dog demo video.  Care to share the plans and part numbers of the materials you used to build yours?

Happy to share the information but I do not have it together yet, it is on my to-do list.

It is all made from the 1515 ULS (1.5")  profile with the tapped ends and their "standard end fastener" #3380. The length of all the parts are in 1.5" increments, and I drilled a series of holes on 1.5" spacing in the 8020 to tighten the fasteners. This makes the various pieces somewhat of a modular system. The extensions I made to use on the MFT can be positioned most anywhere on top of the 8020 frame so I can support a full sheet of plywood while cutting.

Here are a few photos I took, and I have some video I plan on cleaning up soon and putting on the ripdogs.com website.

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That second-to-last shot shows the "modular" feature, using a few of the pieces to extend the MFT surface. The 8020 is easy to work with, I cut it with a metal-cutting chop saw, tap the ends with a 5/16" tap chucked into my cordless drill, and used a jig on my little drill press to drill the thru-holes.

There is a link on the website where you can subscribe to receive a notification when the video is done.

RMW

 

[crpaulk]

I wish I could fabricate tool parts like that as I have oodles of ideas, but no metal fab skills. I am lost if it isn't wood.

 

[Claimdude]

Richard,

I have your parallel dogs and would like a set of the rip dogs as well when they are ready.

Jack

 

[rmwarren]

cvn72 - I edited the assembly video tonight, mostly to speeds it up as it is not particularly fascinating watching. It does illustrate how simple the table really is.



Parts list for the extrusions with cost/weight:

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To use the same assembly method I did you need the standard end fastener (#3380, QTY 14) plus some 5/16" x 5/8" BHSCS (3111 8 each) and tee nuts (#40-3278 8 each). You also probably want to buy their hole drilling jig for the 1515 or 4040 profile it is #6075, drill bit is #6070.

Enjoy!

RMW

 

[CarolinaNomad]

Add me to the list for orders of the RIP Dog set.

 

[cvn72]

Hey Richard,

Thanks for putting up the video and parts list.  I like the portability and speed of your design and also how it can save me from putting a million kerf lines in my festool MFT.

 

[GreenGA]

I missed out during the first run, so count me in during this run.

 

[rmwarren]

Parts are starting to roll in, hope to have everything in a week or two:

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Photos show the original prototype of the guide fence bracket and the final product.

RMW

 

[land_kel]

Richard

 

[land_kel]

OOPS... Tried to say "Add me to the list"

David

 

[Rocky]

Add me to the list.  Thanks.

 

[rmwarren]

Dogs are in the house...

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Just waiting on the guide clips and some hardware.

RMW