ripping a live edge slab

You may not have this option where you live, but if I had to make the glue line cut you're describing in a slab that thick, I would load it up in my truck and take it across town to a local shop that has a Schelling beam saw.  They would charge about $20 to change the blade over and make that single cut, to a laser line, but it would be quick, and most importantly, clean.  I would also bring the new slab to have it cut to width, perfectly parallel.  Those two extra cuts might add a little more machine time, maybe five minutes.

I realize this solution doesn't provide you with the excuse to buy a TS 75, or any other tools.  Sorry.
 
Dovetail65 said:
I would use the table saw for sure. But possibly you only have a little bench top table saw? With a proper out feed table its not a big deal at all.
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I sure would not.

I like the idea of cutting to limit of the TS 55.  Then finishing from the top with jigsaw or hand saw.  The less that slab is moved after the partial cut, the better.  That is one of those projects where I always figure lawman Murphy is always looking over my shoulder.  I am sure that is a great looking slab.  One wrong move flipping to make second cut and there goes the ball game.  Making the cut on a table saw (remember, that is a live edge slab.  I am reasoning it is live edge on bothe edges) is possible as long as the operator is very skilled and has a very good (sawyer's) eye for lining up the cut right at the very start.  If someone is not used to making such a cut, there are all sorts of troubles to get into.  A 10 foot by 3 inch slab has got to be quite heavy in anybody's language. It was not mentioned what wood the slab is, but I bet it is not Balsa.  Not even Sitka Spruce.
Tinker
 
Why would he have to flip I thought this was only 3" thick? I have glued up stuff like this many times. I just guess my table saw is set up for stuff like this. 10 foot is no beg deal and a 3 Inch slab, I have a ship full of them in everything from Cumaru, Walnut  to Wenge. OWithh my Forest Woodworking blade blade I would have this ready for glue up right quick.
 
>>>You may not have this option where you live, but if I had to make the glue line cut you're describing in a slab that thick, I would load it up in my truck and take it across town to a local shop that has a Schelling beam saw.  They would charge about $20 to change the blade over and make that single cut, to a laser line, but it would be quick, and most importantly, clean.  I would also bring the new slab to have it cut to width, perfectly parallel.  Those two extra cuts might add a little more machine time, maybe five minutes.
 
Where do you live, no one does anything here for 20.00. I would charge a 100.00 to come to my shop an take my time like that. And I am betting most companies wont even deal with something like that. What if they screw that piece up, then they are on the line for the material for a 5.00 profit? Actually, I dont think I would even take the piece, there is no upside for me as a business. For FOG friend maybe not someone off the street.

Owl hardwood would do it, with a 2 week lead time. But only if you purchase from them and they wont guarantee a glue joint.
 
I just noticed that this was your first post. Sorry I didn't say it earlier, but...

[welcome] to the FOG!
 
I would use the trion or carvex.  It seems whatever you do will need the edge cleaned up, so being able to do in one pass without flipping the board would be best in my opinion.
 
I just went through the same process with my TS75. I was almost able to rip through my piece, which was 4" thick when I started.

If you decide to use your track saw and have to flip the piece over, I would suggest you make a shallow cut as your first cut and then make the flip. After that do another, deeper pass. This way the slab is still strong enough to withstand the flip.

Good luck. Show some photos if you can.
 
I did a live edge walnut shelves with the same issue. I did the cut with the TS55 flip it and did the same thing. You really need to mark the piece carefully and check 10 times before cutting. I was off by maybe 1/4-1mm along the whole 5 feet cut. Cleaned up the edges with a low angle jack plane. If I had to glue a couple of pieces together I would consider dominoing the pieces to keep them perfectly aligned. and reduce the amount of planing and sanding.
 
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions.  I'm up in Kingston Ontario and doubt I'd find any fancy equipment around town.  I like the idea of the TS55/Carvex which allows me an excuse to buy yet another green tool but isn't nearly as spendy as the  TS75!

The slab is acutally white oak, 52" at it's widest and about 29" at the other end.  It likely weights somewhere around 300 pounds.  It was cut from a >400 year old perfectly healthy tree in Southern Ontario and was on the property of some guy who wanted a new house  in that spot.  The trunk was cut into 3 22 foot pieces, not a knot in any of them.  Personally I think it's a crime that a municipality would allow this but at least I can try and make something out of it that will keep it around for some years to come.
 
I would just use your 55 with a rip blade.  If you don't think you can get it lined up just offset the blade by about half  its width so that you go through but end up with a step.  Then use a router with a bottom bearing to clean up and flush the joint. The nice thing is you will only lose a little more than the kerf plus a little offset and will end up with a pretty clean joint.
JJ
 
Dovetail65 said:
Where do you live, no one does anything here for 20.00. I would charge a 100.00 to come to my shop an take my time like that. And I am betting most companies wont even deal with something like that. What if they screw that piece up, then they are on the line for the material for a 5.00 profit? Actually, I dont think I would even take the piece, there is no upside for me as a business. For FOG friend maybe not someone off the street.

Owl hardwood would do it, with a 2 week lead time. But only if you purchase from them and they wont guarantee a glue joint.
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Western Montana, where one out of every 217 residents is a cabinetmaker.  Supply may outstrip demand here.

The guys I have worked with won't turn away any work, they'll figure out a way to fit it in, it wouldn't be "while you wait".  They would charge me 15 minutes (that's their minimum), the machine rate last I checked was $165 per hour.  With the blade change, I could see those three cuts taking ten minutes.  That shop gives me a good price because I used to work there, and I bring them my business, as well as the occasional pie.  Making $5.00 off those three cuts would be better for them than having the machine idle and the operator doing clean up.  They would do it for anyone off the street, not just me.

They aren't on the line for the material if I pay for machine time for specific cuts.  If I wanted them to produce a specific product for me, as opposed to carrying out my instructions on my material, then I'm sure their prices would be a lot higher.  They definitely won't give a guarantee on the glue joint unless they glued it up themselves, but they do glue-ups from stock cut on their bridge saw without any additional machining.  If they cut a large slab down the middle and it let some tension out of the stock and it bowed, it would be up to you to figure out how to proceed.

Even if you figured in the cost of pies, it would be cheaper than buying a new tracksaw.
 
WastedP said:
Even if you figured in the cost of pies, it would be cheaper than buying a new tracksaw.
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WastedP, I think you just just made a very logical argument against buying a tool.

What were you thinking?  [scared]

Just kidding, of course. And as far as the bribery, I personally use fudge...
 
lenick01 said:
I'm looking for some pointers on how to rip a 3 inch thick live edge slab.  I have a 10 foot long slab that's destined to become a dining room table.  Unfortunately, it's not wide enough per my significant other.  I'm planning on ripping it down the middle and essentially making a panel out of it by gluing in another foot wide 3 inch slab in the middle.

I thought about using a table saw but I think it would be nearly impossible due to the weight and size.  I have a TS 55 but won't get through the full thickness - maybe making a cut and then flipping it over?  I'm worried that I won't line up the 2 cuts properly.  Of course this might be an excuse to get a TS 75....

Any tips would be appreciated!

Mike
Click to expand...

Forget all the option apart from your favoured option, buy a TS 75, by far the better saw, you can then retire your underpowered 55 to the back of the shop
 
lenick01 said:
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions.  I'm up in Kingston Ontario and doubt I'd find any fancy equipment around town.  I like the idea of the TS55/Carvex which allows me an excuse to buy yet another green tool but isn't nearly as spendy as the  TS75!

The slab is acutally white oak, 52" at it's widest and about 29" at the other end.  It likely weights somewhere around 300 pounds.  It was cut from a >400 year old perfectly healthy tree in Southern Ontario and was on the property of some guy who wanted a new house  in that spot.  The trunk was cut into 3 22 foot pieces, not a knot in any of them.  Personally I think it's a crime that a municipality would allow this but at least I can try and make something out of it that will keep it around for some years to come.
Click to expand...

There is good woodworkers group in Kingston you should make contact with. There are many ways to cut your piece but to do it accurately for gluing find someone with a large sliding table saw. It makes the cuts safe, accurate and easy,  I know of one person in that club that has the right saw for this work. Festool saws are good for a lot of projects but unfortunately this isn't one of them.

John
 
I'm going to be contrary, not just to be contrary but because I believe it.

DON"T RIP IT APART.

I work in slabs all the time and that sounds like a magnificent slab. For a dining room table, your fifty two inch end is probably going to be to wide. For many people a width between 30 and 42 inches is more than acceptable. We are currently using a 30 inch wide DR table and it works fine.

Since you will have to figure out the rip, take some time to rethink the plan. That is a massive table. Are you going to keep the overall length around the ten foot mark?

Many folks can't visualize these pieces in their home environment. I'd suggest one of two things. If you can wrestle the piece into the spot it will occupy then haul it in and lay it on some sawhorses or the existing table and live with it for a while.

If that won't work, then throw a couple of pieces of plywood or maybe foam board under the slab. Trace the outline and cut it out with a jig saw and flop that in your space.
 
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