ripping a live edge slab

[Mavrik]

I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of the slab ...

 

[Tinker]

I'm going to be contrary, not just to be contrary but because I believe it.

DON"T RIP IT APART.

I work in slabs all the time and that sounds like a magnificent slab. For a dining room table, your fifty two inch end is probably going to be to wide. For many people a width between 30 and 42 inches is more than acceptable. We are currently using a 30 inch wide DR table and it works fine.

Since you will have to figure out the rip, take some time to rethink the plan. That is a massive table. Are you going to keep the overall length around the ten foot mark?

Many folks can't visualize these pieces in their home environment. I'd suggest one of two things. If you can wrestle the piece into the spot it will occupy then haul it in and lay it on some sawhorses or the existing table and live with it for a while.

If that won't work, then throw a couple of pieces of plywood or maybe foam board under the slab. Trace the outline and cut it out with a jig saw and flop that in your space.

a lot of people think about the maximum crowd they might have and they over build.  Then they have a table that is somewhat overbearing for every day use or even for the occassional  times when they might have 3 or 4 extra people for a meal or two.  Maybe once a year will they have the number they figured on.  Some people will compensate for excess company by crowding a little bit.  We always went that route.  If crowding was too crowded, we set out a card table or two.  Others will be quite happy with a largely oversized table and try to stay within the limits of table without crowding.  They would be quite happy with too much space for the every day use.  It just depends on what they will be satisfied with.
Tinker

 

[tbellemare]

I have a friend who's a successful attorney and who bought a really big, fancy cherry dining room table. All I've ever seen on it was overflow, bulk groceries and unorganized laundry fresh from the drier...

Tom

 

[Tinker]

I have a friend who's a successful attorney and who bought a really big, fancy cherry dining room table. All I've ever seen on it was overflow, bulk groceries and unorganized laundry fresh from the drier...
Tom

Tom, were you looking in our house? [scared] Our table is not over sized.  BUT all the rest-----
Tinker

 

[BUTTER]

By far the best suggestion thus far:

I'm going to be contrary, not just to be contrary but because I believe it.

DON"T RIP IT APART.

I work in slabs all the time and that sounds like a magnificent slab. For a dining room table, your fifty two inch end is probably going to be to wide. For many people a width between 30 and 42 inches is more than acceptable. We are currently using a 30 inch wide DR table and it works fine.

Since you will have to figure out the rip, take some time to rethink the plan. That is a massive table. Are you going to keep the overall length around the ten foot mark?

Many folks can't visualize these pieces in their home environment. I'd suggest one of two things. If you can wrestle the piece into the spot it will occupy then haul it in and lay it on some sawhorses or the existing table and live with it for a while.

If that won't work, then throw a couple of pieces of plywood or maybe foam board under the slab. Trace the outline and cut it out with a jig saw and flop that in your space.

 

[BUTTER]

The TS75 is going to be your best bet for not screwing up
Jigsaw blades, even the fanciest Carvex blades, can deflect; one very minor tip of the router with a 3" long bit will be a bigger error at its far end.
If I had to make such a cut, and presuming all is planed flat/parallel, I would make the rips (two, right next to each other) with the track saw and then rough cut the waste.  Use a router with flush trim bit from the other side to clean up the last ~1/4" of depth that the saw couldn't hit.

But again, I think not touching it is best.

 

[lenick01]

If it was up to me, I wouldn't touch it either!  Things don't always go my way unfortunately.

We actually do use the 8 foot table we have now to most of its capacity on a regular basis.  We will likely end up losing some length as I'm planning on inserting a walnut slab that's closer to 9 feet long, making it look like a wooden dining room table runner.

 

[blk65brd]

Sean,
Here in the Pacific Northwet you simply need to check craigslist, there are numerous suppliers of live edge slabs.
Richard

Some really good pointers for cutting thick wood.
Not to get off subject but where do you guys get your live edge timber?
Sean

 

[sunmtnforge]

To anyone with suggestions: I need to cut one side off of a live edge 3 1/4" thick 40"x12' long fir slab.  I work alone and it is rather heavy and prefer not to turn it.  The cut is not straight and has several right angles (I will hand finish the 90 degree corners) to it but needs to be perpendicular.  Half of it needs to connect with another slab.  After reading this article I am considering buying a cheap(15$ China) 2 flute(3 inches long) straight router bit and try to cut down around 2 3/4" on the first pass then dropping the bit to pick up the last 1/2 inch or so.  I don't want to spend a lot of money on a new tool that I won't use very often(but will consider any options).  Does anyone out there have any ideas?  Thank you for your consideration.

 

[Poindexter]

I do this all the time in super hard woods.  And the best suggestion has already been stated, but if you want to spend money buy a rip blade for the TS55.  Make the cut you want, flip it over and make the same cut from the other side.  If you don't nail it, then a little edge sanding, a few runs on the jointer, or some hand planing will make it glue ready.

A rip blade with less teeth will make short work of oak and shouldn't give you any kickback. 

 

[Kee Squared]

Straight edge clamped to the piece. Circular saw first cut full depth of the blade. Jigsaw or Sawzall the remainder staying close to the cut off side of the cut. Hand plane the edge flat or use a sander. If you want it perfect buy a track saw and get help to flip the piece over. I wouldn't recommend using the router to make the cut. From my experience routers can get unwieldy when making deep dados. If anything use the router to make the clean up pass.

 

[willips]

Wouldn't an HK85 on a rail have nailed this?

 

[upscale]

I'm looking for some pointers on how to rip a 3 inch thick live edge slab.  I have a 10 foot long slab that's destined to become a dining room table.

Sounds like you could use a bandsaw and a suitable hand plane.

 

[egmiii]

I'd suggest finding someone local with a sliding table saw. Place slab on table, clamp, push, done.

 

[HarveyWildes]

Since we cannot get sword saws here in the states, has anyone looked into the prazi sword saw add on.  You can install it on most worm drive circular saws.  Other than that, you need a big beam saw.

In addition to the Prazi beam cutter, there are also a variety of chain saw mill attachments for chain saws that would make quick work of this job.  The straightness of the cut depends on the quality of the ripping jig, which you must make yourself.

Or, for less than the cost of a [TS75/85 or OF2200 or Domino 700] + dust extractor + long rails + accessories, you can just buy the whole mill:https://woodlandmills.ca/us/product/722-portable-sawmill/ orhttp://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...Portable-Sawmills/Logosol-M8-Chainsaw-Mills/.  No need for a ripping jig.

I've always wanted to get one of these, but since I now have more local urban lumber than I will ever use before I kick the bucket, I can't justify it.

 

[dmccririe]

Some really good pointers for cutting thick wood.
Not to get off subject but where do you guys get your live edge timber?
Sean

I have quite a few sawmills near me.  I go there and tell them what I want and they point it out or acquire it for me.

 

[David Dublin]

Use the ts 55 then the slot created will be easy to guide a trion/carvex though and jut the last inch . Then flip the halves and use a bearing guided flush cut bit in your router to leave the jigsaw cut flush with the ts55 cut .? Or the HK 85 looks nice [big grin]

 

[demographic]

I'd put a fiver on it being roughsawn so by the time its even close to being surfaced flattish it will be small enough to do with a TS75.

There you are, the excuse you need to buy a TS 75.

You can thank me later.