RO 125....HOLY COW

stairman said:
I'd like to have a JETSTREAM pad for my RO125.

You already have Jetstream on your RO 125. What you don't have for the 125 mm sanders is MULTI-Jetstream.

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The explanation we heard from Shane Holland, Festool's representative, is that Multi-Jetstream doesn't have a big advantage for the 125 mm sanders because the holes are already closer together than with the 150 mm sanders.

stairman said:
the videos and .pdf's have convinced me that the Jetstream design is peerless.

It is. Undoubtetly. But I guess you mean Multi-Jetstream instead of the (slightly) older Jetstream. Don't be fooled. While Multi-Jetstream might have some advantages over Jetstream in lab settings, in practical use it's minimal. I have used both and still do because I have both pads for my RO 150, but I see no difference at all. Perhaps in lab settings the difference becomes obvious if you hold the sander flat on an enclosed surface for a long time, but in reality that happens not so much, because you will be lifting the sander very often from the workpiece and you will also be sanding edges constantly.

stairman said:
the LEX 2 sanders add a few more concerns,  and this pad/abrasive compatibility is the only reason holding me back from adding those to the list as well.

The Lex 2 sanders are 150 mm only and I believe their pads are compatible with the ETS 150 sanders, but not the Rotex 150. As for abrasives, ANY 125 mm disc will fit ANY 125 mm pad, and the same goes for the 150 mm discs.

stairman said:
is it possible to install Jetstream pads on all sanders,  AND, is it possible to use a 125mm pad on a 150mm or 185mm sander?

It is NOT possible. Pads of different size have differently sized mounting mechanisms. I sure wish it was possible to put a 125 mm pad on my RO 150, but Festool in all their wisdom don't want you to do that.
 
The rotex has always reminded me of Boba Fett's ship. One of the reasons I just had to get one  [big grin]

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Scott B. said:
The Ro125 is such a sweet little hot rod.

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Want a job at my front door ;)  Great testimonial.  Always awesome when someones comes over to the greenside and sees, first hand, what all the fuss is about.  So many folks are close minded and unwilling at times, to even accept something like a demo, when they see a price tag, etc.  It's really cool to hear your story as corny as that may sound.
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That is how I was years ago when I saw these t the Woodworking show.  I did not think they could be worth the money but I was sadly mistaken.  Now I want nothing but Festool.
 
I think I am going to order the ets125 today ??? Not 100% sold on if I really need it.....

Thoughts or suggestions?

Also looking at what accessories and grits to buy? I primarily will use it for wood and finish sanding.

Thanks,
Frank
 
Does anyone know how I can block my access to the FOG website?  Reading about all this stuff here makes the green cool-aid addiction even harder to recover from.  Good news is I'm still young so I'll be able to enjoy using these tools for many, many years to come.  I justify the purchases pretty easily because they really are "investment grade" tools because they are a joy to work with and they hold their value better than any others I've seen.  Not that I have any intention of selling them.  Ever.  Curiously my tool rationale is similar to my wine buying rationale, and I never sell any of that either...

Sorry for this completely unrelated rant.  Now back to the original topic...
 
Zacharytanner said:
I think I am going to order the ets125 today ??? Not 100% sold on if I really need it.....

Thoughts or suggestions?

Also looking at what accessories and grits to buy? I primarily will use it for wood and finish sanding.

Thanks,
Frank
Frank,  I bought a ETS 125 last week and I have used it to finish sand a small oak table.  My previous sander was a Bosch 3725 DVS which I attached to my Festool Mini 22 for dust collection but, at the same size pad the ETS is so much easier to use without having to be concerned about slipping off edges.  I'll keep my Bosch for more aggressive sanding since it uses the same pads until I buy one of the ETS 150/3's.  I am about to buy one of the RO series and I keep going back and forth between the RO 90 and the RO 125.

I purchased the Brilliant 2 sanding disks in 125, 150 and 180 grits in the 100 quantity box for my ETS 125.  But, after using the sander, the disks seem to last a whole lot longer than the  Mirka disks that I had been using on my Bosch so, I would buy a smaller quantity unless your in production mode.
 
I just finished a cherry table for my office.  I found I STILL had scarring issues from my RO125.  I've read all the comments about lowering the vacuum speed, (which I did).  Then, I read in Fine Woodworking, I probably used my abrasive too long.  Has anyone else encountered this issue and solved it?  Because, if I can't stop making those marks, I'll have to find another solution.  I"m sure I am at fault, but I just have to know what to correct!!
 
1toolshort said:
I just finished a cherry table for my office.  I found I STILL had scarring issues from my RO125.  I've read all the comments about lowering the vacuum speed, (which I did).   Then, I read in Fine Woodworking, I probably used my abrasive too long.  Has anyone else encountered this issue and solved it?  Because, if I can't stop making those marks, I'll have to find another solution.  I"m sure I am at fault, but I just have to know what to correct!!

Can you post a picture of the "scarring issues?" Are you tilting the sander at all? Does it happen in rotex and random orbit mode? Is the sander on speed 6?

This will help diagnose the problem.

I am sure it is something that can be ironed out.

 
Sean Ackerman said:
LOL.  That's what the cool aid will do to ya.
My experience with the RO 125 has been a little different. I purchased it with a CT48 to get a system that worked better than my Porter Cable and Dewalt R/O sanders that I have used for years. The dust control is amazing and I am very impressed with the CT48, but the RO125 has been very dissappointing. It has a mind of its own and is prone to jumping around so I have to hold it so tightly it wears me out. I have been using it with 120 grit Rubin in random orbit mode (the Rotex mode is almost uncontrollable) mostly on a storage unit that I am making out of western red cedar so this adds to some of the difficulty controlling the sander as I have found it is easier to use on harder materials. The best combination that I have found is on the highest speed and the lowest extractor speed. I am very careful not to tilt the sander, but no matter what I do it always gets around to jumping unless I am directly over it with a  firm grip. Is this normal? I contacted Festool and they sent me a return authorization form, but maybe others have thoughts that may help before I send it in.
 
insagn said:
Sean Ackerman said:
LOL.  That's what the cool aid will do to ya.
My experience with the RO 125 has been a little different. I purchased it with a CT48 to get a system that worked better than my Porter Cable and Dewalt R/O sanders that I have used for years. The dust control is amazing and I am very impressed with the CT48, but the RO125 has been very dissappointing. It has a mind of its own and is prone to jumping around so I have to hold it so tightly it wears me out. I have been using it with 120 grit Rubin in random orbit mode (the Rotex mode is almost uncontrollable) mostly on a storage unit that I am making out of western red cedar so this adds to some of the difficulty controlling the sander as I have found it is easier to use on harder materials. The best combination that I have found is on the highest speed and the lowest extractor speed. I am very careful not to tilt the sander, but no matter what I do it always gets around to jumping unless I am directly over it with a  firm grip. Is this normal? I contacted Festool and they sent me a return authorization form, but maybe others have thoughts that may help before I send it in.

Sounds like you should send that in and get them to look at it.

Particularly if still under warranty.
 
Hard to get pics...my camera does not do closeups.  (Im working on that...)  But it leaves circular marks that shouldn't be there...

Not on 6...I used 4.

I generally use Rotex then orbit.  It have always had the issue.  Typically I use my cheapo palm sander to follow behind the Festool.  (Now THAT is embarassing!!)  Because of dust restrictions on this job, I couldn't do that.

Right now, after reading the article in fine Woodworking, I am thinking I use the abrasive too long.  But it seems to be too widespread even for that.  One question comes to mind, how far up do you jump in grit on the way to 220 or 320, as the case may be.  May I make too big of jumps????  50 - 100 - 150 - 180.
 
1toolshort said:
Hard to get pics...my camera does not do closeups.  (Im working on that...)  But it leaves circular marks that shouldn't be there...

Not on 6...I used 4.

I generally use Rotex then orbit.  It have always had the issue.  Typically I use my cheapo palm sander to follow behind the Festool.  (Now THAT is embarassing!!)  Because of dust restrictions on this job, I couldn't do that.

Right now, after reading the article in fine Woodworking, I am thinking I use the abrasive too long.  But it seems to be too widespread even for that.  One question comes to mind, how far up do you jump in grit on the way to 220 or 320, as the case may be.  May I make too big of jumps????  50 - 100 - 150 - 180.

The 50 to 100 jump is probably where you got in trouble, it's hard to see the 50 grit scratches after the 100 grit sanding but there are the ones your probably seeing at the end.  I found a rubber union at woodcraft that allows me (with the aid of some duct tape) to use my Festool vac system with other sanders.
 
1toolshort said:
ok...makes sense.  BTW, who makes the union?

I don't think there was a label on it, it was a rubber piece about 3" long with two diameters one of which fit the Domino Vac tightly and the other was large enough for me to connect my Bosch sander.  Ask the people at Woodcraft if you have a local store.  If I see it the next time I'm at woodcraft, I'll let you know.
 
1toolshort said:
Hard to get pics...my camera does not do closeups.  (Im working on that...)  But it leaves circular marks that shouldn't be there...

Not on 6...I used 4.

I generally use Rotex then orbit.  It have always had the issue.  Typically I use my cheapo palm sander to follow behind the Festool.  (Now THAT is embarassing!!)  Because of dust restrictions on this job, I couldn't do that.

Right now, after reading the article in fine Woodworking, I am thinking I use the abrasive too long.  But it seems to be too widespread even for that.  One question comes to mind, how far up do you jump in grit on the way to 220 or 320, as the case may be.  May I make too big of jumps????  50 - 100 - 150 - 180.

50 is too gritty as a starting point to walk up through grits. You are cutting it up pretty good. I often start with a lightly seasoned 80 and go up from there.
 
My recommendation would be to stop by your local Festool dealer. Take your RO 125 and some paper. Try theirs and yours side by side. If you are getting behavior, there's something wrong with your machine and it should be sent in for service before the warranty expires. If they act similarly, then the dealer may be able to point out the cause whether its technique or something else.

If it's not convenient to visit a dealer, maybe sending it in to be checked out would be a good idea. The RO 125 can take a little getting used to in Rotex mode, but in RO mode it should handle quite nicely. Even in Rotex mode, it just takes a little practice to control the power with that smaller pad size and to keep it balanced.

Make sure you're using the sander at full speed (6) for the best results, especially with lower grits.

Shane
 
Scott B. said:
1toolshort said:
Hard to get pics...my camera does not do closeups.  (Im working on that...)  But it leaves circular marks that shouldn't be there...

Not on 6...I used 4.

I generally use Rotex then orbit.  It have always had the issue.  Typically I use my cheapo palm sander to follow behind the Festool.  (Now THAT is embarassing!!)  Because of dust restrictions on this job, I couldn't do that.

Right now, after reading the article in fine Woodworking, I am thinking I use the abrasive too long.  But it seems to be too widespread even for that.  One question comes to mind, how far up do you jump in grit on the way to 220 or 320, as the case may be.  May I make too big of jumps????  50 - 100 - 150 - 180.

50 is too gritty as a starting point to walk up through grits. You are cutting it up pretty good. I often start with a lightly seasoned 80 and go up from there.

Absolutely! I'd like to see the material before 50 ... does it really need it? ... depending on what you want to achieve, I'd even consider inserting a 120 grit to your process.

50 can cut a very deep groove  [scared]
 
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