RO 150 FEQ Pad throwing paper, HELP!

ruinstone

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2007
Messages
6
I'm on my 2nd pad and the hooks seem to wear down, I'm sanding cedar logs with Rubin 50 and 180 grit.
 
Welcome,
Could you be a bit more specific? how rough are these "logs" you are sanding?

Mirko
 
the logs are smooth, they've been stored for a number of years, we're gonna rebuild it soon and I'm just knocking the finish (Varnish; Shellac) off the outside and years of dust and dirt on the inside. The first pad caught a splinter and threw the paper off and the pad hooks made a couple revs on the surface and smoothed out about a forth of the pad. Even a new disk wouldn't stick so I put on a new one and now its getting like the other one except I haven't made any contact with the bare hooks to log.
 
ruinstone said:
I'm on my 2nd pad and the hooks seem to wear down, I'm sanding cedar logs with Rubin 50 and 180 grit.

Do you know the product number of the sanding pad that you are using?

It seems that the standard pad which is supplied with the RO150FEQ is the "high-temp resistant for heavy-duty applications 6" diameter (150 mm)/9 hole/soft 493 916 $34.50" version, but the hard (Order No 493915) and supersoft (Order No 493917) pads are not rated for high-temperature heavy-duty applications.

If you are using the hard or supersoft pads, then that might explain premature wear caused by overheating.

For users of the earlier RO150E who have a similar problem, this machine also has various pads available for it, and one of them is the "longlife" pad:

StickFix sanding pad
For demanding applications
6" diameter (150 mm)/9 hole/Longlife 491935 $34.50


The Festool FAQ database says the following about this RO150E longlife pad:

Question :
How long does the 6" long life pad last? What is different between the normal 6" soft pad and the long life pad?
 
Answer :
The long life sanding pad (491935) will last up to three times as long as the standard sanding pad. It has a reinforced edge and a distinct hook and loop design which is more heat resistant. It is recommended for the Rotex. 


Note that pads for the RO150E and ETS150 are apparently not compatible with the RO150FEQ.

Forrest

 
ruinstone,
Rotary mode is very aggressive with these sanders, and if splinters get caught under the sanding disk, I could see how they would Frisbee off.
The thicker sanding disks are very stout, there is not much "give" like the finer grits, they just rip up and tear under some serious load.
Good luck

Mirko

 
Forrest, thanks for info,  the first pad was the 493916, the I changed to the super soft 493917. Now I've got a new 916 pad on, I'll just have to watch for those splinters next time. My wife suggested I grind the the old 916 pad down and put on some Velcro. 
 
Are you using a vacuum with the sander?  Dust can build up on the pad, causing it to lose some of it's stickiness.  It might seem strange using a vacuum outdoors, but you'll get better performance from your sander and abrasives will last longer.

TP

ruinstone said:
the logs are smooth, they've been stored for a number of years, we're gonna rebuild it soon and I'm just knocking the finish (Varnish; Shellac) off the outside and years of dust and dirt on the inside. The first pad caught a splinter and threw the paper off and the pad hooks made a couple revs on the surface and smoothed out about a forth of the pad. Even a new disk wouldn't stick so I put on a new one and now its getting like the other one except I haven't made any contact with the bare hooks to log.
 
TP

yes I'm using vac when ever I change paper I always blow off the pad and the paper to reuse
 
Are you by any chance pushing down very hard on the sander to get it to "cut" faster.  That generates a lot of extra heat the will dramatically shorten the life of the hooks on the pad.

Fred
 
I have a RO 125, not a RO 150.  But I have subjected my RO 125 to what I consider very hard service carving through several layers of old alkyd enamel paint and cured plaster to repair cracks.  Before I realized that a slower speed would keep the temperature down and reduce loading of the paper with melted paint (some areas also have latex paint), at times I could even smell the paint / plaster as it it was burning from friction.  Yet there was never any issue with durability of the pads -  I used both a medium and a hard pad at times.  Something may be wrong in mounting of the pad, or your not getting the air flow through the pad and sandpaper holes as designed by Festool.

Dave R.
 
I loaned a nice ROS to a customer once.  When I got it back, it would not hold onto a disc.  Upon closer inspection, the hooks on the pad had partially melted from the customer trying to rush the sanding job with some extra pressure.  I replaced the pad and never had a problem since - I've also never had an occasion to loan out my festool sanders.
 
Dave R

Thanks for the info, since I messed up my first pad I have cut my speed and am using the pad for high temps. I've got about 3200 sq ft of western cedar logs to refinish, the outside has some layers of varnish and stain, but the inside surface has nothing on them so that side is easy to clean up. I will say this I'm sold on the 150FEQ. These logs look better than they did back in 1972.

Thanks again All,

Phillip 
 
So Phillip, you're doing a log cabin? I'd love to see before and after photos when you finish. My neighbors lived in a log cabin when I was a kid, I spent a lot of time there.
 
I have had several customers that use the ro/q 125 and 150s the es 125 and even the air sanders on cedar and they all seem to have a shorter life on the pads. the rougher grits tend to grab more aggressively on the softer cedar wood and create more heat faster thus wearing the hooks grip strength down quicker. the long life pads seem to give better results to them but they are not available on all pads for all sanders.
don't feel alone on this one, just go a little easier on pressure and use a vac to help with cooling airflow around the pads.
hope this helps a little.

bill@festool supply nw
 
Hope you don't mind me resurecting an older thread here but I heard the cedar is aggressive on power tools in general due to microscopic grit particles being trapped in the relatively open grain of the timber and this really impacts on router bit and saw blade wear. Any comments?
 
I've never used cedar, but I've found teak to be extremely hard on blades and cutters, especially HSS.

Fred
 
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