RO 150 polishing accessories question

[zapdafish]

Can you use a RO150 to buff between top coats of finish? What pad would I need and would I use abrasives or polishing stuff.

Prob gonna get an RO150 tomorrow. It's taking forever to remove planar marks from a bunch of lumber I just got.    If it can also do the above, I'd like to pick up the accessories for it at the same time.

thnx

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

What you would use is really dependent upon the results you are looking for.

You could use Platin abrasives if you're looking for a matte or satin (4000 grit) finish.

The harder felt pad is best for aggressive compounds as it doesn’t give as much and makes a good leveler.  The soft felt pad is appropriate for less aggressive polishes and waxes as a final buff. 

Be sure to turn the speed of the Rotex down to 1-3 and use it in Rotex (rotary) mode when polishing.

You can find all of the polishing accessories on our website. Be sure to share your impressions of the RO 150 with other forum members once you've spent some time with it.

 

[mouppe]

Hi Zap,

Are you using the rotex to remove planer marks? If so, it should be a fairly quick process if you are using the right grit- I suggest rubin 100 on the aggressive mode. The other possibility is that your planer blades are dull or nicked. If you have ridges running down the lumber you can slide one blade slightly to the right a couple of millimetres and it will offset the nick.

What finish are you using? Some finishes can get upset if they get too hot, so keep the rotex speed down in that case, and keep the pad moving around.

I use the sheepskin pad to buff out a finish but I have never gone above 400 grit when polishing wood.

Richard.

 

[zapdafish]

thanks, I'll be sure to check out the pads and platin if possible. I am not a fan of high gloss either so satin or matte will be perfect. I have some samples that have had enough time to cure as well to take in for some testing

The planar marks are because I bought S2S lumber. Got a good deal and the seller didn't charge me for S2S.  I am still experimenting with top coat finishes. So far have one test piece with General Finishes 450, have another MinWax Poly, and considering testing Waterlox Marine/Spar if I have issues with the General Finishes.

 

[mouppe]

If you are looking for a matte or satin finish then I would not really look to a sander for the final finishing. Once the bare wood is sanded to 220 (and for this the rotex is unbeatable) then after applying the finish I would use steel wool or a hand sanding block. I just feel that I do not have the lightness of touch necessary with a power sander. Maybe ETS users would argue differently but I only have a rotex. I do use the rotex for buffing wax, but not for rubbing out a varnish or shellac.

Also, if you sand higher than 220, you may have problems with applying a stain such as the General Finishes 450 you mentioned.

Loads of permutations, but the FOG is the right place to get the answers.

 

[semenza]

Ditto on the 100gr Rubin in aggresive for the planer marks. Then hit it agian with the 100gr Rubin in ROS (fine mode)  to lear up the RO mode swirlies. I like the hard pad for this as well.

Seth

srs

 

[zapdafish]

[thumbs up] [thumbs up]

posted my impressions

 

[zapdafish]

For waxing tool surfaces like my tablesaw top  what would you recommend?  ??? I found sheepskin, hardfelt, soft felt, sponges  ??? 

I also can't believe I just spent 2 hrs researching abrasives for this thing. Thank goodness some of that research pointed to sample packs at http://www.tool-home.com and this post Getting_the_most_from_Festool_sanders.pdf

 

[mouppe]

For waxing tool surfaces like my tablesaw top  what would you recommend?   ??? I found sheepskin, hardfelt, soft felt, sponges  ??? 

I also can't believe I just spent 2 hrs researching abrasives for this thing. Thank goodness some of that research pointed to sample packs at http://www.tool-home.com and this post Getting_the_most_from_Festool_sanders.pdf

You don't need a rotex to wax your machine surfaces. I use waxilit from Lee Valley on my guide rails, plane soles, planer bed etc. It is silicon-free, you use a clean cloth to apply it, leave it to dry for 5 or 10 minutes and buff out. No power sander needed. In fact, if you use a power sander, it may be too aggressive and remove the wax from the surface that you have just applied.

 

[Warrior]

Zapdafish,

You do not want to buff between top coats! Depending on the finish you will want to SAND between top coats with 280/320 grit non siliconized SANDPAPER. Alot of finishes do not melt into the previous coat  so the sanding is necessary for adhesion between coats. The Rotex sander is not a good choice for this task as you will see all your nice sanding scratches when you finally do get to the buffing stage. The ETS150/3 is needed here. Buffing is done only after the final top coat has been applied and has cured.

The platin pads are great for wet sanding the top coats (my initial buffing step) with 1000,1500,2000,4000. Then a hook-n-loop sponge pad from auto shop store + 3m fine cut rubbing compound does really well. The rotex excells in all of these tasks. Far outperforms the portercable sander/polisher I tried.

 

[zapdafish]

just saw your reply Eiji, thnx.