RO 90 Edge sanding

W

woodnerd

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Messages
91
I'm going to bust your chops a little here.  This isn't one of your better videos.  Taking over two minutes to sand the end of a relatively small board isn't really showing the RO90 in a good light.  The problem is your choice of 220 grit paper.  Not at all how I'd do it.  Maybe I'm being overly critical here so don't be afraid to tell me to shut up. [big grin]   
 
Brice Burrell said:
I'm going to bust your chops a little here.  This isn't one of your better videos.  Taking over two minutes to sand the end of a relatively small board isn't really showing the RO90 in a good light.  The problem is your choice of 220 grit paper.  Not at all how I'd do it.  Maybe I'm being overly critical here so don't be afraid to tell me to shut up. [big grin]   
Click to expand...

Brice

I agree, I used the RO 90 for the same type of thing. Except I start with 120 sand paper and change paper up to 220.  More steps but I think it is faster.  I also make sure I have the hard pad on. 

Woodnerd is right about the RO 90 being perfect for that job though.

 
First of all, I was trying to take off the absolute minimum because I'd already cut the board to exact length, so I went with a worn piece of 220.

Second, I was trying to show the control when sanding an edge, not speed of material removal.

Cliff
 
woodnerd said:
First of all, I was trying to take off the absolute minimum because I'd already cut the board to exact length, so I went with a worn piece of 220.

Second, I was trying to show the control when sanding an edge, not speed of material removal.

Cliff
Click to expand...

Oh I never thought of it that way, and a point well taken.  No offence was intended in my prior post.
 
woodnerd said:
First of all, I was trying to take off the absolute minimum because I'd already cut the board to exact length, so I went with a worn piece of 220.

Second, I was trying to show the control when sanding an edge, not speed of material removal.

Cliff
Click to expand...

Fair enough and as Shane posted no offense intended. 
 
I know how much Brice loves hand planes ( [smile]) but using a shooting board & hand plane would allow for a perfectly square end taking the minimum amount required off in a very short time.  Having said that, I understand you are demonstrating the precise control of the RO90 -- very good.
 
I'm glad you mentioned the dimensional requirement.  I'm sure many of us would have used other grits to clean off burn and step. 

I DO love the fact that you were able to change speeds on the fly and stay on the matter at hand.  As you can tell I do not have an RO 90 in the arsenal yet, but come the right job that will be history!

[big grin]
 
RonWen said:
I know how much Brice loves hand planes ( [smile]) but using a shooting board & hand plane would allow for a perfectly square end taking the minimum amount required off in a very short time.  Having said that, I understand you are demonstrating the precise control of the RO90 -- very good.
Click to expand...

There's always some joker that brings up hand tools. No offense intended Ron, okay maybe just a little. [tongue]
 
Hand tools are no joke, a sharp low angle block plane would clean that up in 15 seconds or less.  It would take longer to get the wood in the clamps.

I'm glad you like your new toy, I mean tool.
 
I just made 20 doors out of red oak.  I used  the RO 90 for edge sanding the saw marks and burns off the oak. I did a outstanding job. I started with 80 grit finished with 100 /120 grit. No problems at all. 4 of the doors were 11"X 66 1/2". Golden Oak stained with a cranberry red panel.  18 were oak ply with shop made oak veneer edgeing (On the cabs to) I used th RO90 to sand the veneer. I tell ya that little bugger is a awesome tool.

 
Kevin Stricker said:
Hand tools are no joke, a sharp low angle block plane would clean that up in 15 seconds or less.  It would take longer to get the wood in the clamps.

I'm glad you like your new toy, I mean tool.
Click to expand...

Brice much prefers tools with tails.  [big grin]
 
Cliff, I just don't see your point to using, used 220 grit to keep the length of the piece intact.  You had to remove a certain amount of material that had the defects in it.  What does it matter if you start with a courser grit and finish with a finer grit to get the same end result, but in less time?  3 minutes for sanding the end of a board just seems like a big waste of time.  I'm going to have to charge you for watching an extra 2 minutes of sanding IMO, at a rate of $40/hr. works out to you owe me $1.33 plus the added electricity required by my CPU and GPU to watch a video plus a boredom fee comes to a total of $614.82.  I accept Paypal.  [big grin]
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Cliff, I just don't see your point to using, used 220 grit to keep the length of the piece intact.  You had to remove a certain amount of material that had the defects in it.  What does it matter if you start with a courser grit and finish with a finer grit to get the same end result, but in less time?  3 minutes for sanding the end of a board just seems like a big waste of time.  I'm going to have to charge you for watching an extra 2 minutes of sanding IMO, at a rate of $40/hr. works out to you owe me $1.33 plus the added electricity required by my CPU and GPU to watch a video plus a boredom fee comes to a total of $614.82.  I accept Paypal.  [big grin]
Click to expand...

I'm cheaper than Ken, you only owe me $585, Paypal works for me too. [tongue]
 
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