RO90 for polishing auto paint?

Dan Clark

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Joined
Jul 30, 2009
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540
Has anyone used an RO90 for spot polishing or compounding auto paint?  By polishing, I mean using a polish like Menzerna polishes, not applying sealants, waxes, or AIO's.  Does the Rotex mode have enough power to work the polish?  What was your experience?

Thanks,

Dan.

p.s. I have a PC, RO150, and Flex 3401 for bigger panels.
 
Dan, the RO 90 (as I understand it) was actually developed specifically for automotive. Of course, it's great for wood too. It has a 400 watt motor, 80% of the power of the RO 125, and only half of the surface area. So, power per square inch, it's more powerful than the RO 125. And, 55% the power of the RO 150, with 33% of the surface area. So, again more powerful per square inch of pad.

Hope that helps. Maybe one of the forum members has used it for that purpose and can share their experiences.

Shane
 
I use my RO90 as well as my RO125 to polish the oxidation and general road wear off of polycarbonate headlight lenses using Platin 500 through 4000. 

[smile]
 
It works well as a little polisher and I find is easier to control in tight areas than a PC with a small pad. It does tend to get hot without the vac attached.
 
Sparktrician said:
I use my RO90 as well as my RO125 to polish the oxidation and general road wear off of polycarbonate headlight lenses using Platin 500 through 4000. 

[smile]

I did the same with my RO90 using the Platen 500 to 4000, I now have new looking headlight covers.
 
I used my RO90 along with LC pads and Megs 105/205 to buff out the rockers on the wife's car which were shaped such that it was the only appropriate tool I had.  I also have the PC and Flex, but the pads were just a bit too big for where I was working.  It definitely has the power- work with it more like the Flex than you PC for sure.
 
Gentlemen,

Thanks. Good information.  I'm ordering LC 3" & 4" pads to try out with my RO90.

Regards,

Dan.
 
I used my ro90 to polish the face of my aluminum 'vet wheels. It worked Alot better than my mother's powerball that I commonly use. It had plenty of grunt but as others said it gets very warm after only a few minutes

 
Alright so I tried the 90 last night on a spare body panel I had as a test dummy and I was actually surprised at how well it worked. I primed up a 4" Uber orange pad with some menz power finish and had at it. I spread the product at speed 3 then ramped up to 6 to break the polish down. At first the rotex seemed a little jumpy and wanted to pull away but after trying a little less pressure and quicker movement I soon got the hang of it. I hit it with power finish twice then gave it a iso alcohol wipe and check my progress. Most of the major defects were gone but there was some hazing and pigtails that would need to be finished down. Next step was menz super finish on a 4" LC white pad, broke the polish down at speed 5.5 moving about 3-4 faster than I would with a pc. After multiple alcohol wipes to ensure no fillers were left behind here are the results under a brinkman dual xenon

421e97a4-f64c-2423.jpg
 
Good thing I already have an RO90, otherwise this thread would probably make me go spend even MORE green on the green cool-aid!  Nice work BBuild.
 
Anyone use one as a scrubber, I keep thinking with a green brillo type pad it would be a great tile/grout/scum remover
 
BBuild said:
I used my ro90 to polish the face of my aluminum 'vet wheels. It worked Alot better than my mother's powerball that I commonly use. It had plenty of grunt but as others said it gets very warm after only a few minutes

I'm looking to repair some corrosion and curb rash on my forged aluminum wheels (they are not painted, but rather polished aluminum with a clear coat finish).  Would this be something my RO90 would be suited for?  If so, which abrasives would I use to get rid of the corrosion?

Thanks,
Brian
 
greenMonster said:
Anyone use one as a scrubber, I keep thinking with a green brillo type pad it would be a great tile/grout/scum remover
It cleaned the rust off my jointer and polished it up nice.
 
For polishes, if I'm using an RO sander I use Griots, it is designed to break down with an RO;

http://www.griotsgarage.com

If I using an orbital is use Zanio's it's designed to break down under an orbital;

http://www.zainostore.com

If your paint is not clear coated Zaino has a polish just for the softer finish.

If the vehicle paint has been neglected I highly recommend clay bar the surface first. You will also need to seal/wax the paint after polish.

Brian,

Abrasives would depend on how deep the pitting is. Not seeing it----start with 220, make a decision to go up or down in grit for first pass. Once you know what your first grit is work your way up the grits until you get to 1500. After that it will be pads then polish. I'm not a big fan of clear coated wheels, once water gets in it can't get out and it's down hill from there.

Tom
 
Paul G said:
Tom, another Zaino user here, amazing stuff.

Just don't let their Flash Cure sit mixed to long. Not good for the mixing bottle  [eek].

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Paul G said:
Tom, another Zaino user here, amazing stuff.

Just don't let their Flash Cure sit mixed to long. Not good for the mixing bottle  [eek].

Tom

I think just about every user of flash cure discovers this the 'hard' way. I stopped using it after that little flash cure bottle cured itself as well. I've been fine without it, just a little extra patience
 
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