Roof rack system for carrying Plywood

krudawg

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Oct 21, 2016
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I've got a new Toyota Highlander with roof rack.  I'm not too sure about putting a couple sheets of plywood on it.  I've been looking a Yakima for something I can add to make carrying wood, Plywood and other lumber. safer/easier  Anybody using a Yakima rack for carrying wood who would like to point me in the right direction.
 
Both Yakima and Thule sell cross bars that are wider than 48". If you can find the correct feet or clamp for your Highlander, then it'll work. The clamps will be different depending on if you have factory installed side rails or a bare roof. Also be aware of the weight limits for the specific clamps.

I used to have a Tacoma with a Leer shell that had rack tracks preinstalled on the roof. I had 60" Thule cross bars and I was comfortable strapping 3-4 sheets of plywood to the racks. I think the weight limit was somewhere in the 150 pound range.

I no longer have the Tacoma and now drive a wagon with factory racks. They work but I don't trust a full-width sheet up there. I think they're only about 36-40" wide. Now when I buy plywood, I have the yard cut the plywood down to around 24 - 30 inches wide so the boards fit within the clamps.
 
Dan Pattison has a good video on simple roof rack mod for carrying plywood.
I made one for our previous wagon, and I can confirm that it works well, and it's much easier than strapping 3 or four sides of the plywood to make sure it says in place. It also makes it easier to load.


When I'm going to carry sheet goods, I usually buy a few 2x4's as well to go on top so that the straps add better vertical pressure on the plywood.
 
When I had a Mazda3 with a Thule rack or a Pilot with the regular manufacturer rack, at least 3/4" sheets were rigid enough that I could just put a couple on top of the cross bars, and then use one ratchet strap in front and one in back, looped around each side of the cross bar and it was pretty solid.
 
I've carried plywood this way more than once, usually on stock SUV roof racks. Be aware that there is a massive amount of force (lift) if you are running along at highway speeds, trying to rip the material off. Use quality ratchet straps or 1/2" rope and know your truckers knot.

And never follow someone else hauling this way...

RMW
 
Richard/RMW said:
I've carried plywood this way more than once, usually on stock SUV roof racks. Be aware that there is a massive amount of force (lift) if you are running along at highway speeds, trying to rip the material off. Use quality ratchet straps or 1/2" rope and know your truckers knot.

And never follow someone else hauling this way...

RMW

  You mean I can't just hold it on with my hand out the window and a buddy doing the same on the passenger side?  [huh]

      I actually saw this happen at a HD years ago. They got as far as making the turn from the parking lot row onto the main parking lot drive. I think they managed to hit maybe 10mph. At least they lost it in the parking lot.  [blink]
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  Almost got two sheets of drywall on my windshield one time. Truck with cap in front of me at a traffic light. Must have just left a worksite. I noticed the sheets seemed to be moving around a bit while stopped at the light. I don't think it was tied down at all. They probably forgot but ........................... Truck hits the gas when the light turned green, I didn't. Drywall cartwheeled into the air and smashed on the pavement right in front of my car.

Seth
 
Swimming pool noodles sliced open lengthwise will protect the plywood from damage.  Simply snap it onto the crossbars and then load the lumber. 

You want to find the hollow ones.  Walmart and Homedepot sell them for about $4.00 to $6.00 each.  With a sharp kitchen carving knife it slices like butter.  I tried with a utility knife, but the blade was not long enough. 
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mino said:
Go slow. 30MPH (tops) slow. Strap as if your child was sitting on it. Stop gradually.

One sheet is about 100 pounds. Most roofs can handle 100-200 pounds. So about 2 sheets is max. That is not much.

All things considered, it is MUCH, MUCH better to just get or rent a trailer. Or cut to size at the yard so it fits in the trunk.

If I'm hauling sheet goods, regardless of weight, they go inside my '15 Expedition EL with the back door solidly closed, and ratchet-strapped to the underpinnings of the second row seats that have been folded down.  Lumber up to 10' can go inside in low quantities.  Longer materials (trim, lumber up to 16', plumbing, conduit) all go on the Yakima JetStream bars on top of the Expedition.  That said, all will be shrink-wrapped at the front end with a short length of duct tape securing the shrink wrap to avoid wind separation and destruction of the materials, especially trim.  I watched some bozo totally destroy a load of shoe molding because he didn't tie the front ends together to resist the wind.  I also watched another clown spread a load of sheetrock on the highway because he apparently didn't strap it down inside a shorter-length Expedition, and didn't tie down the back door. 
 
Both HD and Lowes have pretty good deals on renting their trucks for a couple hours.

Just because you rent the truck from one of them doesn't mean you have to haul anything from their store home.

HD is $19 for the first 75 minutes as an example.
Lowes is $19 for 90 minutes and another $5 for every 15 minutes over 90.

Is it worth $20 not to lose a load or damage your car?

U-Haul too of course is an option.
 
Two things watch for when transporting sheet goods on the roof top are:

1.  Air lift.  Air gets under the front of the plywood and the lifting pressure can be immense.

2.  Hard stop inertia.  A hard stop will toss the sheet goods forward will gusto.  A sheet of plywood 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ weighs about 60 pounds; pressure treated, about 90 pounds.  A hard stop and the sheet can fly off and decapitate someone.
 
" A hard stop and the sheet can fly off and decapitate someone."

They can fly out of a p/u truck bed too, as has happened more than once.
So tie-downs are needed there too if your bed is not covered.
 
Packard said:
Two things watch for when transporting sheet goods on the roof top are:

1.  Air lift.  Air gets under the front of the plywood and the lifting pressure can be immense.

2.  Hard stop inertia.  A hard stop will toss the sheet goods forward will gusto.  A sheet of plywood 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ weighs about 60 pounds; pressure treated, about 90 pounds.  A hard stop and the sheet can fly off and decapitate someone.

Good Point.  Does anybody make a roof rack with an air deflector on the front - that would eliminate  "air lift hazard"
 
I think you can make a clamp-on piece of hardboard to eliminate the gap under the plywood and thus eliminate the uplift hazard.  I never tried to do so, but it seems doable. 
 
pixelated said:
Dan Pattison has a good video on simple roof rack mod for carrying plywood.
I made one for our previous wagon, and I can confirm that it works well, and it's much easier than strapping 3 or four sides of the plywood to make sure it says in place. It also makes it easier to load.


When I'm going to carry sheet goods, I usually buy a few 2x4's as well to go on top so that the straps add better vertical pressure on the plywood.


Use some strong G clamps instead of straps and the ply won't be going anywhere. Strapping as shown in the video is next to useless as the straps need to be run over the top of the ply, back under the ply then over the top again and then tensioned. It is called belly roping in my neck of the woods, others my have other names for it.
 
Most of my roof-rack plywood hauling was done on fairing equipped racks. The fairing reduces the wind noise quite a lot whether you're hauling something or not, so, I find it a worthwhile addition.
That said, my current cars use the newer "aero" cross bar racks, and don't use the fairings.

I've not had a problem with uplift, glass sunroofs are great to help monitor the load while in transit  [smile]

 
I have never trusted roof rack mountings after seeing a roof top rack actually get torn from  the roof of a car. 

I use straps and I have always run the straps over the load and into the passenger compartment by running through with the doors closed. 

My Chrysler Pacifica comes with a convertible roof rack that be moved into place when required.  I have had no reason to use it and I don't know how to make the switch.

I just found this video and it looks pretty simple.  I don't know its capacity though.
 
Stow in place cross bars. That's a cool feature.

Seth
 
I just looked at the owners' manual.  The maximum weight on the crossbars of the Chrysler Pacifica's stow in place crossbars is 150 pounds distributed evenly over the rack.
 
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