Rotex 150 Scratching

ztifpatrick

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Joined
Jul 29, 2007
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10
I just got my Rotex 150 & was anding some walnut with the hard pad & 80 grit using the aggressive mode. I'm impressed with the sander but it seemed to leave bad scratches on some of the walnut. I sanded all the pieces with 80, then switched to the soft pad using 120 grit. It was then I saw the scratches, so I dusted of the workbench & each individual piece in case there were 80 grit particles on there. I got most of them out, but not 100%. Sanding is not new to me, I've owned the Bosch 1270 for years & never saw this problem. I like the sander & I'm hoping there is a fix for this. Any feedback?
 
The aggressive mode w/ an 80 grit will remove material very quickly.  You might try (on a scrap) using the fine mode with the 80 grit, or skipping directly to the higher grits.  I have the 125, not the 150, but in the aggressive mode, it takes off wood in a hurry compared to the fine mode (in any grit).

Unless I have some uneven surfaces, I usually start at 120g, (Rubin) now.
 
With the Rotex try going down a grit more than normal. I sand Walnut all day and have no problems at all.

Some would say back off the vacuum suction if you can, many claim this immediately solves the problem.

This is why I suggest a 150/3 for fine finishing. The Rotex is for blasting off material to me. I bet after using the sander for a few months you will not get the scratches. This sander does not work like any other sander I have had so experience sanding did not help me at all and once I go the hang of the Rotex  I leave glass smooth surfaces.
 
Try going to the next abrasive disc (100 or 120).  Make a pass with the aggressive mode, and then switch to the fine mode, keeping the same pad and disc.
 
After I posted I thought maybe switching from aggressive to fine mode while keeping the same paper might help. I'll try this next time. What about the hard pad? I bought that as i thought this stuff is coming off the planer, it's flat and the hard pad would keep it that way. I only switched back to the soft pad because the instructions indicated that it should be used for non aggressive work. As for backing off the suction, I could try that. Is there a control on the Ct33? Have not looked for it before. I hear people rave about the 15/3 but I really don't want to buy another sander, and deep scratches are something any sander coming behind is going to have problems with , true?
 
You should not be getting deep scratches I thought you were referring to pigtails.

Just turn the dial toward the left to slow down the suction.

I always use the hard pad and never the soft pad and I always use the rotex in the regular mode after a rough sanding. Once the surface is nice and flat I never go back to the rotex mode.

I use the rotex mode to get the work flat, then use the same grit in non rotex and then all the other grits in non rotex.

Using the 150/3 is going to give you a finer finish and will remove any remaining pigtails because the stroke is much smaller therefore the scratches are smaller, so small you can not see them, usually.

I only use the 150/3 for furniture or on woods I see pigtails on(which is not much)and use the Rotex for everything else.
 
I'd just add that if you are not already, try just letting the sander do the work rather than forcing it on to the workpiece.
 
I have the hard pad, but very rarely use it.  The standard pad works well in most circumstances.  

The CT33 has suction control (rabbit and tortoise symbols).  When sanding, you can cut the suction on the vac down.  It will help keep the sander moving freely.  I don't have this problem with the Rotex, but it can be an issue with the DTS, RTS, etc.  

I have the ETS150/3, and it is a great compliment to the Rotex.  I wouldn't consider it a "have to buy", but the results are incredible.  I view the ETS less as another sander, and more as an extension of the capabilities of the Rotex.  The results you get with the combination are truly amazing.  
 
I have to clarify my previous post:

You know I do sometimes use Rotex mode all the way through the sanding grits and NEVER go to regular mode.

Once I use the regular mode I never go back to the rotex mode though, it tend to undue what you have just done.

I use the hard pad because I constantly sand soft woods like Walnut that are directly next to super hard wood like ipe. If you use the soft pad you will get valleys where the soft wood is or what feels like high spots on the hard woods. The hard pad eliminates this hill and valley effect.

I think when using woods of the same hardness or all one type of wood the hard pad may make the surface flat faster.

Mostly the hard pad was developed for sanding narrow strips less than the width of the pad. With the soft pad it tends to round the edges of say a 2" rail.
 
Thx for all the feedback, I feel better. I'll try turning the suction down & staying with the same paper from agressive mode to regular before moving onto a finer grit. I really like the rotex, hard to imagine buying the 150/3, but you never know!
 
I had a quick look at the ETS 150/3, price is not going to break the bank. It looks like it does not hook up to the vacuum? Is this true? I see it shown with a bag attached.
 
Yes it hooks up to the vac, every Festool does. That is the entire premise of the Festool system, dust collection.
 
The 150/3 does hook up to dust collectors.  In fact, I have never used the little bag.

BTW, thanks for asking the original question; this has been an incredibly informative thread.  I've learned a lot from it. (And, thanks for all the answers.)
 
Richard,

Just wondering what you have been doing with yourself since you left Family Feud.

:)

Neill
 
Neill,

Learning a lot about woodworking from guys like you.

Richard

PS:  And don't forget about Hogan's Heroes.
 
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