Rotex for End Grain Cutting Boards

[Casm]

hi all,

As the topic suggests, I have 4 or 5 end grain cutting boards to make. Previously I have rented time at the local woodworking shop for the projects, including paying extra for the drum sander time to flatten them. This is getting very expensive and a pain to drive out there each time.

I can now do everything I need in my home shop except for flattening them easily. My standard RO sander with coarse grit just gave up on me trying to flatten the first one.

Would the rotex be up to the job of easily flattening them?  I also have a deck to refinish, but then the rest of the projects I have lined up for a while are smaller lighter projects. Would the rotex also be light enough to sand veneered ply as well?

Thanks!

 

[FM_SC]

Rotex would be great for everything you listed perhaps with the exception of sanding plywood.  I use the ETS 150 or ETA 125 for those tasks.

 

[mike_aa]

Welcome to the FOG!

The RO150 is a great sander.  I haven't sanded end grain with mine, but I have sanded a rough cut slab and it had no trouble taking off the saw marks and smoothing it to achieve a nice flat surface. 

If you don't already have a dust extractor, I highly recommend using it with the sander.  I found that keeping the dust off the surface as you work allows you to better see what you are sanding and the paper lasts longer by staying cooler and cleaner.  Festool offers 10 percent off of the DE when it's purchased with a sander.

Good luck!

Mike A.

 

[Klamp]

I'd also recommend looking at the RS2E.

I had the exact same problem a few months ago making end grain cutting boards as gifts.  I started with an ETS 150/5, then got a RO 90, and finally ended up getting an RS2E sander.  I went from about an hour using my ETS 150/5 and not even getting them completely flat, to about 15 minutes with the RS2 with much better results.  I also tried my RO 90, but it dished and was entirely too small for the task.  I think if I had the RO 150 it would have been a lot easier. 

I think in terms of aggressiveness, I'd rate the RO at the top, RS2 in the middle, and ETS at the bottom.  I chose the RS2 because I also have a butcher block countertop that I plan to refinish and it should be a lot easier to keep it flat and get into the corners compared to the RO 150.  Plus, RS2E is $395 vs $565.  But if you can find a good deal on the RO 150, hands down get it.

I never realized how many different sanders I would need for such a simple project.  [tongue]  I plan to get a RO 150 down the road and hopefully that will cover all of my needs.

 

[Casm]

Thanks for the input.  I have the TS55 and dust collector already, along with the 27 and 36 hoses, so I should be good in that regard.

 

[mouppe]

The problem with sanding end grain is that some spots are harder than others and if you sand a large area, there will inevitably be some dished spots. The blue hard pad for the rotex will help somewhat but a cutting tool such as a planer or hand plane will work better than a sander. It will also accept an oil finish without the need to sand it back.

You can also chamfer the edges after you sand the surface so as to remove any rounding-over that may occur with the rotex.

Personally, I would use a toothed plane in a low angle jack plane to level the surface and then smooth it with a hand plane.

 

[unityroad]

Hi, Just type  youtube/mtmwood  maybe you will see how this guy from Russia makes end grain tops. Good luck, WELCOME. Tim

 

[Ed Bray]

Just a thought, but wouldn't a router with a mortising bit, on a sled with rails be better at flattening the surface much like you would do the top of a workbench, especially with more than one to do it may be worth the effort of making a jig.

 

[hcoyote]

Would the rotex be up to the job of easily flattening them?  I also have a deck to refinish, but then the rest of the projects I have lined up for a while are smaller lighter projects. Would the rotex also be light enough to sand veneered ply as well?

Not end-grain cutting boards, but I made three of these last year, using my RO125 to do all the sanding.  I had a few spots where the boards shifted during glue up and I didn't notice, leaving areas that were 2-3mm proud of the surface.    The RO125 made quick work of it when in the aggressive mode.

These were made with hard maple, black walnut, purpleheart, goncalo alves, and makore.  I used Rubin 2, starting from 80 grit and working up to 220.  Worked great.

 

[smbobby]

I make allot of end grain cutting boards. I do use a drum sander to get them flat, but then I use my Rotex 150. I start with 40 grit and go through all the progressions to 320. I probably could stop @ 180 because the end grain is very smooth at that point, but I put that little extra in. I have a Rotex 90 but its too small the 150 gives you the surface area to stay true.

 

[petrosil]

Well it always comes down to the right tool for the job and here it's the drum sander. Like someone else said you'll end up with dished spots trying to flatten it with a ROS.

Doesn't solve your problem of replacing your ROS but the drum sander does sound like it would earn its keep in your shop. I have the ETS150/3 ROS and it does a great job for my smoothing and finish jobs.

Having just bit the bullet with the Kapex I now look at the price of drum sanders and think they are reasonable for what they provide.

Drum sander and a 150/3 would be an awesome addition to your shop and make you incredibly more efficient; you'll still be smiling long after the bill is paid.

 

[HowardH]

I'm also a big fan of the drum sander.  I make a lot of end grained cutting boards and struggled for a long time trying to flatten with an RO 150. Not going to happen.  End grain is hard as a rock, especially on hard maple and purple heart. I invested in a Supermax 19-38 and never looked back.  However, if I had the room and the money, I'd get a 20" planer and glue up sacrificial boards at each end to protect the end grain at the ends.  Two passes on that and it would be done vs multiple passes with the Supermax.  I don't do them for a living so the time isn't that important.  You can also do a wide board in a couple of sections and run them through a 12" planer and then do one careful glue up to join the two sections together but the Supermax rendered that moot.

[attachimg=1]

 

[JeromeM]

The thicknesser (bilingual: US planer) is the perfect tool, but you have to be very careful and take very small amounts off at a time

 

[mouppe]

I've seen what happens when a board explodes in the planer. I'd quit woodworking before I did that again.

I completely agree with you. A drum sander is fine, but never a thickness planer.

 

[petrosil]

I'm also a big fan of the drum sander.  I make a lot of end grained cutting boards and struggled for a long time trying to flatten with an RO 150. Not going to happen.  End grain is hard as a rock, especially on hard maple and purple heart. I invested in a Supermax 19-38 and never looked back.  However, if I had the room and the money, I'd get a 20" planer and glue up sacrificial boards at each end to protect the end grain at the ends.  Two passes on that and it would be done vs multiple passes with the Supermax.  I don't do them for a living so the time isn't that important.  You can also do a wide board in a couple of sections and run them through a 12" planer and then do one careful glue up to join the two sections together but the Supermax rendered that moot.

[attachimg=1]

Wow that is a very cool looking cutting board, gives quite the optical illusion.