Rotex RO 125

[Tom D]

Hi,
I have been surfing this site since last winter and finally registered last June. I have not posted much but have found that the information I can get is invaluable. I figured that I would start asking questions sooner than later as I have found out that it is a very long slippery slope. Yes I have been sucked in.
I am looking for some advice, I have a cabinet refinishing job coming up and was thinking of purchasing the Rotex 125.
I need to sand the 40 year old clear finish off the cherry cabinets and apply new clear finish. I have the ETS 125 but feel that it isn't the tool for the job.
The sides are plywood so I assume that I need to be careful on a veneer.

My questions are: Is this one of the intended applications for this tool?
                            Does the aggressive mode leave a lot of swirl marks?
                            Is the random orbit setting similar to the ETS 125?

Sometimes I would like to sand a surface down faster than with the 125 but don't want to spend the time saved removing swirl marks.

Thanks

 

[paul_david_thomas]

I had the same issue as you... I thought the smaller would be better, until I got my hands on the 150..... I was sold on the latter...

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

See now, I love my RO125.  I have used it for stripping paint on doors, trim and exterior siding, it is the perfect size and weight to hold in any position.

 

[fidelfs]

I also have the RO 125 but I got tired of it.  (I mean for large areas is to small and heavy, and hard to control some times).

I decided to go with the RS 2E but instead went to the bosch 1293D.  It is half the price and that is the reason why I bought it.
They performed the same but the caveat is that this is my hobby.  Somebody stated that they prefer Festool because they know what part are available and they will fit all the time.  I can wait for a part, sand paper or what not when this is not available because I don't have a deadline.  With the RS 2E, you know that a pad will fit correctly and what sand paper to buy, etc.  There are so many dealers and they have enough stock so you won't have a down time.

Well, let me tell you that today my first choice of sander is the 1293D.  It is easier in your hands and with sandpaper such 80 or 100 grit is very aggressive.  I stained some wood, but I didn't like the final finish. I applied the stain, and 3 coats of poly.  I used the 1293D and 80 grit and in no time I had raw wood.

I still use the RO125 but for smaller areas.  Cabinets have large flat areas, and the RS2E or any other half sheet sander will work great and you won't end up all tired.

Give it a try.  They work more than fine.

 

[Tom D]

The reason I am looking at the RO125 is because I have a whole systainer full of 5" discs and don't want have another one full of 6" ones.

 

[mike1967]

Regarding your question about swirl marks:  I use a RO 150 but I suspect that the situation is similar to the RO 125.

My experience is that you will get a lot of swirl marks if you are sloppy with the sander.  If you let the sander do the work, keep it very level, and do not lean on it you will be fine.  There is a learning curve to the RO 150 though and I would not suggest experimenting on a nice piece of wood.    I have found that it is very important to have good sanding disks: as soon as a disk loses its edge there is a temptation to lean on the sander and that is bad.  So, I probably go through more disks than necessary but this saves time later.

As for comparing the random orbit mode of the RO 150 to the ETS I have no idea.  The only Festool sander I have is the RO 150. 

Mike

 

[bruegf]

I have the RO125 but would be afraid to use it on veneered surfaces in orbital mode.    It is very aggresive and it would be very easy to cut through the veneer.    I have used it strip paint and it does work very well.  Swirl marks are manageable, mostly comes down to technique in my opinion,  just be careful.

Fred

 

[CharlesWilson]

I have, (only once, though) cut through the surface veneer of some plywood with the RO125. Be careful!

 

[AlexThePalex]

The ETS 125 will do the job just fine, it'll only take you a bit longer than when you use the RO 125.

Clear finish isn't that hard or thick as opaque paint and in my experience very easy to remove. Also, because it is clear, it isn't necessary to remove every last bit like you have to with normal pant. It mostly suffices to just roughen it up a bit, not much power needed.

I got the RO 150 and I never have any problems with swirl marks, not even with 40 grit paper. I admit I am used to using random orbital sanders for many years already so this might be more difficult for somebody who just started working with them. Just remember to never apply too much pressure on them and always keep the machine level, and you should be fine.

By the way, it's not the aggressive mode where you have to worry about swirl marks because in that - rotary - mode you have the disc spinning in a constant rotation, no swirling. It's the random orbital mode where you have to take care, because it both rotates and swirls with a lateral 3.6 mm offset (for the RO 125). 

Anyway, you can always turn the speed of the machine down so it becomes more docile and less agressive. Also, don't use too low grits on clear finish. Start with 120 or even 180 if you're not sure, just to check it out. I wouldn't recommend the rotary mode for this job either, the random orbit mode should be more than adequate.

Only downside of the Rotex I can think of is the incredible loud and nasty noise it makes.