Router bit for cabinet door rails & stiles
- Thread starter MacMitch
- Start date
Ken Nagrod
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I have Sommerfeld's Easy Set Jig. It only works with their router bits to match up the shape and bit height plus it won't work on wood thickness less than 23/32".
Interesting information, thanks to all the posters...
Are the Sommerfeld's router Bits of similar quality as the Whiteside, Amana or CMT's?
The rubber grommet sounds like a good idea for keeping the bits at a consistent distance from the bottom of the collet. I wonder if it is possible to get the grommet in crooked though? How easy/difficult is it to remove the grommet? The grommets must wear out, but how fast, does heat melt burn them...?
It would be nice to just do one set up. Does the Sommerfeld Height Matched Bit Sets mean that were I to buy the Shaker set that I would only have to do one height set up to use the three bits?
I have had the Hitachi M12VC router suggested to me as being the quietest, 10-12 db less than the similar Milwaukee router I was thinking about and the price is very good. I understand it is very popular for CNC use. Would this suggest it could handle the Shaker Raised Pannel Cutter? I was not considering "raised pannel" bits but this one seems to be simple, Shaker style, and not too large a cut. I believe I can get just the stile and rail cutters too.
Is Sketchup a computer program? Guess I will Google it next.
Found Sketchup on Google, downloaded it just now and will be playing with it. Thanks for the suggestion.
Are the Sommerfeld's router Bits of similar quality as the Whiteside, Amana or CMT's?
The rubber grommet sounds like a good idea for keeping the bits at a consistent distance from the bottom of the collet. I wonder if it is possible to get the grommet in crooked though? How easy/difficult is it to remove the grommet? The grommets must wear out, but how fast, does heat melt burn them...?
It would be nice to just do one set up. Does the Sommerfeld Height Matched Bit Sets mean that were I to buy the Shaker set that I would only have to do one height set up to use the three bits?
I have had the Hitachi M12VC router suggested to me as being the quietest, 10-12 db less than the similar Milwaukee router I was thinking about and the price is very good. I understand it is very popular for CNC use. Would this suggest it could handle the Shaker Raised Pannel Cutter? I was not considering "raised pannel" bits but this one seems to be simple, Shaker style, and not too large a cut. I believe I can get just the stile and rail cutters too.
Is Sketchup a computer program? Guess I will Google it next.
Found Sketchup on Google, downloaded it just now and will be playing with it. Thanks for the suggestion.
nickao
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- Feb 24, 2008
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- 4,617
For a raised panel bit I always use a 3 to 3.5 HP unit. I would go with a Milwaukee in a table:
Milwaukee 5625-20 15 Amp 3-1/2-Horsepower - PM me for a link
The Hitachi is a quiet model for sure. With my db meter in my shop it is the most quiet by a substantial margin. In my experience it is just simpler and one gets better results much more quickly using the larger router for panel making, especially if you intend on knocking out several doors as opposed to one.
Now if you had money to burn a Festool OF2200 in a table would be awesome for panel raising. Though I would keep mine for hand work, the power in this router would be great. A few here do panel raising from the top with no table, you can talk that out with them. I do not suggest it for a newbie and I just don't like it at all for myself either.
I often thought of getting an older model Festool OF 2000 and putting it permanently in a table as well. You can still get them brand new some places, for a fairly inexpensive price.(I think about 340.00?)
Milwaukee 5625-20 15 Amp 3-1/2-Horsepower - PM me for a link
The Hitachi is a quiet model for sure. With my db meter in my shop it is the most quiet by a substantial margin. In my experience it is just simpler and one gets better results much more quickly using the larger router for panel making, especially if you intend on knocking out several doors as opposed to one.
Now if you had money to burn a Festool OF2200 in a table would be awesome for panel raising. Though I would keep mine for hand work, the power in this router would be great. A few here do panel raising from the top with no table, you can talk that out with them. I do not suggest it for a newbie and I just don't like it at all for myself either.
I often thought of getting an older model Festool OF 2000 and putting it permanently in a table as well. You can still get them brand new some places, for a fairly inexpensive price.(I think about 340.00?)
Wow that was fast Nick,
Thanks for the follow up. I just sent a link to the wife with the Shaker bits. The simple "Shaker" raised pannel does look nice so I will be thinking about going with the larger table mounted router. The raised panel bit in that "Shaker" set does appear to be smaller than many of the raised panel bits though.
I have the Festool 1400 router which I was planing to reserve for use on the MFT table and any work on the surface of cabinets. I thought the Festool routers were designed to be used right side up, of course, I guess this could be said of many of the routers we use in router tables.
I guess an alternative is to clamp cabinet door frame boards to a Festool MFT table and use the 1400 on them. I just thought cutting narrow end grain pieces might be a problem. I'm sure some sort of jig could be made to make this work. I just thought that with a larger number of cabinet doors planed a router table with Mite-R-Slide for running the smaller boards over the router would make much more sense.
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/stile-and-rail-bits-hw-8-mm-shank/p/491129/
I see in Sommerfeld's clearance area versions of some of the same Sommerfeld bits/sets with CMT and Sommerfeld on the label. This might lead one to believe that the present Sommerfeld bits are made by CMT for Sommerfeld.
Thanks for the follow up. I just sent a link to the wife with the Shaker bits. The simple "Shaker" raised pannel does look nice so I will be thinking about going with the larger table mounted router. The raised panel bit in that "Shaker" set does appear to be smaller than many of the raised panel bits though.
I have the Festool 1400 router which I was planing to reserve for use on the MFT table and any work on the surface of cabinets. I thought the Festool routers were designed to be used right side up, of course, I guess this could be said of many of the routers we use in router tables.
I guess an alternative is to clamp cabinet door frame boards to a Festool MFT table and use the 1400 on them. I just thought cutting narrow end grain pieces might be a problem. I'm sure some sort of jig could be made to make this work. I just thought that with a larger number of cabinet doors planed a router table with Mite-R-Slide for running the smaller boards over the router would make much more sense.
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/stile-and-rail-bits-hw-8-mm-shank/p/491129/
I see in Sommerfeld's clearance area versions of some of the same Sommerfeld bits/sets with CMT and Sommerfeld on the label. This might lead one to believe that the present Sommerfeld bits are made by CMT for Sommerfeld.
Nice link Steve-CO,
So you used that bit on 1/2" panels creating maybe a 1/4" raised area leaving a 1/4" "tongue" to run in a groove in the stiles & rails?
Maybe the Sommerfeld Shaker Pattern/Cope Cutters could be used to put some detail in the stiles & rails while cutting a groove?
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Shaker-Pattern_Cope-Cutters/productinfo/02002/
These bits are giving me challenges regarding JessEm Router Table Packages as the Rout-R version I have been looking at apparently does not work with 3-3 1/2 HP routers. I would need to order a much more expensive Package or purchase individual parts so I could get the Mast-R version of the lift which accepts the larger routers. A 2 1/2HP router might have less trouble with the Lee Valley bit than some of the larger raised panel bits?
So you used that bit on 1/2" panels creating maybe a 1/4" raised area leaving a 1/4" "tongue" to run in a groove in the stiles & rails?
Maybe the Sommerfeld Shaker Pattern/Cope Cutters could be used to put some detail in the stiles & rails while cutting a groove?
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Shaker-Pattern_Cope-Cutters/productinfo/02002/
These bits are giving me challenges regarding JessEm Router Table Packages as the Rout-R version I have been looking at apparently does not work with 3-3 1/2 HP routers. I would need to order a much more expensive Package or purchase individual parts so I could get the Mast-R version of the lift which accepts the larger routers. A 2 1/2HP router might have less trouble with the Lee Valley bit than some of the larger raised panel bits?
tiralie
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- Jan 26, 2010
- Messages
- 3,617
MacMitch said:
I have to agree with Nickado here. You really need variable speed and power on your router.
Other than the Festool 2200 which is an unbelievable machine to use, the Milwaukee 3.5 horse machine works great in a table and Festool doesn't sell a table mount for the 2200 on this side of the pond. While I am somewhat dubious of Milwakee's 3.5 horse rating (20 amps and 120 volts in single phase @ 100% efficiency = 3.21 horses) it still is a very powerful tool and you can adjust the speed to suit the bit diameter.
I have a Jessem table with the Milwaukee motor and it works flawlessly. Jessem's marketing, customer service and distribution is a bit wacky but I think they make a well designed and solid product.
If you do go with a smaller horsepower motor you will have to take more passes to make clean cuts but it should be Ok just remember to get one with variable speed.
If I didn't get the Milwaukee I would have gotten the PC, but I am not a big fan of Porter Cable routers (I have 2) as they seem to have much more run-out than the Festool routers.
There are a lot of good tutorials (youtube) and online resources (thisiscarpentry, Finewoodworking forum) to help you with Sketchup but it can be frustrating at first.
Good luck.
Tim
I guess I have unintentionally confused the issue here. I originally had no intention of using "large" router bits. I was thinking about making simple, plain stiles and rails. I was planing to match the plain boards used for trim in my Dutch Colonial home, a copy of a very old actual home. While exploring router bits to use in this post, bits were mentioned that I think would be considered large, like for raised panels. I'm not sure what would be considered large though and I'm sure there must be some gray area somewhere. I am trying to get a handle on the whole size thing actually, as in my research of various routers I read of quite a few people saying they use 2 1/2 HP routers to do "raised panels" with no problems. Which is not to argue with any of what I am sure is my fellow posters honest opinions. I'm just not sure whether or not I need or want to make raised panels or use "large" bits so I am trying to define what the larger routers and bits need to function properly so I can weigh the cost of that equipment against the capabilities they would provide.
Maybe part of the problem is this whole thing gets into some sort of fringe place where Festool routers may or may not offer solutions. I am confused about the Festool routers as I don't think they use a rating system that directly correlates with the HP ratings other routers use. I have a Festool 1400 router which I had sort of eliminated as a candidate for a router table, but then I see a post where someone says they use theirs in a table and another one mentioning using a Festool router in an upright position to make raised panels. I thought Festool routers were not designed for tables but upright use? I was afraid that I might cause rapid wear to my Festool router by placing it in a table. I also thought that making these kinds of cuts on small boards like stiles and rails was another area where a table router has very clear advantages over an upright?
Am I missing options for doing this work with my Festool 1400 EQ router? Maybe people do not want to make comments that could be construed as derogatory about Festool routers? My Festool T 15+3 drill is equivalent to a regular 18volt drill in terms of "power". Is my 1400 router the equivalent of a mid size 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 HP regular router? I do not see Festool routers listed as being compatible with most router table lifts. I assumed this was because they were not designed to be hung in tables but maybe it is simply because there are not a large enough # of people with Festool routers wanting to place them in tables?
Maybe part of the problem is this whole thing gets into some sort of fringe place where Festool routers may or may not offer solutions. I am confused about the Festool routers as I don't think they use a rating system that directly correlates with the HP ratings other routers use. I have a Festool 1400 router which I had sort of eliminated as a candidate for a router table, but then I see a post where someone says they use theirs in a table and another one mentioning using a Festool router in an upright position to make raised panels. I thought Festool routers were not designed for tables but upright use? I was afraid that I might cause rapid wear to my Festool router by placing it in a table. I also thought that making these kinds of cuts on small boards like stiles and rails was another area where a table router has very clear advantages over an upright?
Am I missing options for doing this work with my Festool 1400 EQ router? Maybe people do not want to make comments that could be construed as derogatory about Festool routers? My Festool T 15+3 drill is equivalent to a regular 18volt drill in terms of "power". Is my 1400 router the equivalent of a mid size 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 HP regular router? I do not see Festool routers listed as being compatible with most router table lifts. I assumed this was because they were not designed to be hung in tables but maybe it is simply because there are not a large enough # of people with Festool routers wanting to place them in tables?
