Router Question

[Hubiquitous]

Hi All,

I am restoring some double-hung windows on my heritage property.  The local carpentry shop is gonna charge me an arm (not the leg) to recreate some brick moulding that I need.  The cost about justifies an OF1400 so I am going shopping.

My question is can I pull off the profile in the picture with an OF1400 and maybe the 492636 Parallel Edge Guide? I suspect it'll be two passes, but any thoughts or tips from more skilled woodworkers would be appreciated.

[attachimg=#]

Thanks,
David

 

[tiralie]

Yes you could recreate this with router and a bead bit.
Make sure you have a adequate support so the router base doesn't tip and you are good to go.
How many linear feet are you making?

 

[semenza]

Hi David,

 Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

 If you get an edge beading bit with a bearing you won't need the edge guide.  Set things up for stability and so the work piece doesn't move and just run along the edge.  Make your pieces a little longer than needed or  a length of multiple pieces. That way if things get a little off at the beginning or end of the routing passes you will have some extra to that can be cut off.

Seth

 

[Daver]

Hi David,

 Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

 If you get an edge beading bit with a bearing you won't need the edge guide.  Set things up for stability

Seth

I'm with Seth on this one (all of his comments, but highlighted the above).

If your brick mold stock is all of a consistent dimension and flat, you could lay out multiple pieces parallel to each other and use the stock's dimension to give yourself a nice stable, flat base from which to rout.

The 1400 is a fantastic router that will not only handle this project with ease but open the door for you towards all kinds of future capabilities and projects.
I've used a lot of tools/a lot of brands over the years and found Festool to be outstanding, precision, high-performance equipment.
Allow yourself time (and test cuts on scrap material if you like) to familiarize yourself with it and to build the confidence that when you've completed a pass you will be one step closer to your project goals.
'Walk into it' as they say (take your time), work safe, and make sure your refrigerator is in optimal condition for preparing that celebratory post-work beverage!

Best of luck and  [welcome]
Dave

 

[wow]

First,  [welcome] to the FOG!

Seth is a great resource and I generally agree with him, but in this case I am gonna differ for one reason - I think his skill level far exceeds mine!!!

When I use a bearing guide bit on something like this - especially on soft woods - I always seem to find at least one soft spot that causes a 'divot' in the profile. For this reason I would do this on a router table, or at least use an edge guide. Either one would prevent the divot mentioned above.

Otherwise, I agree with everything that has been said. The OF1400 is the most versatile of the Festool routers, since it handles 1/4" 8mm and 1/2" bits.

Whatever you decide to do, post LOTS of pictures!!

 

[PaulMarcel]

Anybody know of a beading bit with that same profile?  Sure there are many with that bead, but it looks to have half a V-groove on the other side.  Not sure if you could run a V-groove then run the bead and get a clean bead.

 

[ishmerc]

From the look of the picture ,it look like the two side look like it sit lower than the middle .I'm no expert when it come to woodworking ,but it would seem easier if this was done on a router table .I would run the two edge side face against the fence ,then with the V shape bit face against the router table top .Any 1 3/4 hp router will have enough power to handle the job .If your question is whether or not the OF1400 have enough power to handle the job ,the answer is yes  .

 

[Daver]

Anybody know of a beading bit with that same profile?  Sure there are many with that bead, but it looks to have half a V-groove on the other side.  Not sure if you could run a V-groove then run the bead and get a clean bead.

Paul-Marcel, you hit the nail on the head.

Bit selection is the key if this profile is to be reproduced exactly.

The absence of a trench between the bead and chamfer rules out the use of a table saw to cut the chamfer and it makes the choice of beading bit tougher. It would be a cinch to reproduce this profile on a custom ground set of shaper knives, but you can't run those on a Festool router.  [big grin]

I did some searching and the closest I came (in profile, not necessarily in scale) was "shutter bead router bit".
http://www.rockler.com/shutter-bead-router-bit

Dave

 

[PaulMarcel]

That bit is perfect if it is the correct size.  Excellent find! 

 

[Stephen B]

[size=12pt]

Or if I have interpreted the previous posts correctly this from CMT

http://www.carbatec.com.au/wainscotpaneling-construction-bit_c21723

 

[tiralie]

Anybody know of a beading bit with that same profile? 

We would need the radius of that bead to help...maybe David could measure it.
Tim

 

[wow]

[size=12pt]

Or if I have interpreted the previous posts correctly this from CMT

http://www.carbatec.com.au/wainscotpaneling-construction-bit_c21723

That's certainly the right profile! Now the only question is whether it's the right size?

 

[semenza]

I think its just an edge beading bit.  Most of the bit companies have then in various sizes.

http://www.routerbitworld.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=edge+beading

Seth

 

[semenza]

    Edge guide would certainly be OK, too. I just find them awkward sometimes compared to a bearing guide. Get a bit with a bearing and it can be used with or without the edge (parallel) guide.    And a router table would be great but I made an assumption that David didn't have a table set up.

Seth

 

[Hubiquitous]

Wow, so many replies so fast.  Thanks everyone.

I am doing about 70 linear feet of Douglas Fir.  My local supplier found it in the back of the shop after a couple years so it's good and and dry!

I'll measure the depth and radius tonight, but it doesn't need to be exact.  I am replacing everything so it only needs to be close enough to match the neighbours.  I think the shutter bead that Daver found might do the trick in one pass, otherwise I was expecting to do two with a v-bit and a beading bit.

Seth is correct, a router table is a bit out of my reach at this point.  I have caught the Festool bug and nothing but the CMS will do.  I do have enough stock that I can clamp together as Daver suggested though.  I guess I have an excuse to buy the SYS-MFT now.

 

[wow]

I guess I have an excuse to buy the SYS-MFT now.

Yep - you're infected.

[big grin]

 

[sancho57]

Wow, so many replies so fast.  Thanks everyone.

I am doing about 70 linear feet of Douglas Fir.  My local supplier found it in the back of the shop after a couple years so it's good and and dry!

I'll measure the depth and radius tonight, but it doesn't need to be exact.  I am replacing everything so it only needs to be close enough to match the neighbours.  I think the shutter bead that Daver found might do the trick in one pass, otherwise I was expecting to do two with a v-bit and a beading bit.

Seth is correct, a router table is a bit out of my reach at this point.  I have caught the Festool bug and nothing but the CMS will do.  I do have enough stock that I can clamp together as Daver suggested though.  I guess I have an excuse to buy the SYS-MFT now.

Of course you'll need the kit with the out feed and sliding table