Router question.

[Lbob131]

Does  anyone  know a  good  method  with  a  router  to  raise  the  grooving  cutter  from  the  work  piece  at a set  angle/slope  to  exit  the  surface?
I seen  Gary  Katz  do  this  on one  of  his utube  videos  when  he  was  fluting  a stair  newal post  but  cannot  find  it now. [sad]

 

[Bob D.]

How much of an angle are you thinking, 1:1 or something more gradual maybe?

Fixed base router I assume.

I can envision a complicated jig that could do this with repetition and precision but probably not worth building for a one time project.

 

[Cheese]

For a gradual taper (think juice trough on a cutting board) I’d use the MFS, cut a spacer to get you the angle you want, clamp the MFS and use a template bushing for straight router guidance.

 

[semenza]

I have done this by attaching wood shims to the surface and running the router on the shims. Such as the tapered end of the single vertical groove on this piece.

[attachimg=1]

Seth

 

[FestitaMakool]

Seth beat me to it..

This spring/summer I’ll do this with front door trim/casing.
I’ve been looking at it and as long as I can use a parallel guide I’ll put the tapered wedge on the top of my material making the router exit in a slope supporting the whole width of the router base.

 

[Lbob131]

Thanks  all.
Shims  had  crossed  my  mind.

 

[Packard]

stick on a "ramp" for the router to climb. Or make a jig similar to a flattening sled/jig for the router and angle it up.

There are lots of tutorials on this here's one: https://www.theaccentpiece.com/router-flattening-sled/

 

[Bob D.]

stick on a "ramp" for the router to climb. Or make a jig similar to a flattening sled/jig for the router and angle it up.

There are lots of tutorials on this here's one: https://www.theaccentpiece.com/router-flattening-sled/

This is along the lines of what I was thinking when I said make a jig. But I was thinking  of one that would use profile templates that would let you create varying depth of cut as you moved the work under the router on a sled. The sled would hold the work and the profile template. Sort of a parallelogram setup as used for copying but a straight line setup.

 

[peter halle]

I have done this by attaching wood shims to the surface and running the router on the shims. Such as the tapered end of the single vertical groove on this piece.

[attachimg=1]

Seth

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] ,  very nice tasteful detail!  Far better your way!

Peter

 

[guybo]

Does  anyone  know a  good  method  with  a  router  to  raise  the  grooving  cutter  from  the  work  piece  at a set  angle/slope  to  exit  the  surface?
I seen  Gary  Katz  do  this  on one  of  his utube  videos  when  he  was  fluting  a stair  newal post  but  cannot  find  it now. [sad]

 

[FestitaMakool]

[member=58842]guybo[/member] - Yes, that’s exactly what I had envisioned [smile]

I”ll experiment with different jigs, but that one in the drawing looks very close to what I need for my project.

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] - Nice detail, bespoke and subtle.

 

[semenza]

A couple things to note if using shims for the ramp............................

      I said wood shims but I actually used composite shims for the uniformity. If using wood make sure you are using a pair that are very close to the same thickness. Wood shims can vary a bit especially at the thin end. 

      At the point the router base comes on / off the thin end of the shim you will get a step in the taper. It can be seen in the pictures. I experimented with ways to get rid of that step. Ultimately I ended up liking it better with the step which was one reason I went with the uniform thickness of the composite shims. That made the steps uniform. Just a small extra detail for interest.

    I used thin double sided carpet tape to stick the shims to the surface.

  Not looking to go OT and make this into a project post but here are a couple more pictures.

  [attachimg=1]

  [attachimg=2]

Seth

 

[guybo]

Nice work, bet they were happy.