Router Question

[ajm32]

Hello FOG and newbie alert. I hope this is the appropriate place to post this. If it isn’t, apologies in advance.

I recently inherited a DF500 in very good condition and this kind of reignited a very basic skill woodworking bug that has been dormant for a few years because of life. Now that I have a bit more time,  I've managed to complete a couple of things for family that are pretty decent and with some actual straight lines. Slowly I've replaced old and tired tools with better ones and after playing around with the DF500, I am a Festool convert with an AGC18, TS55, CT15 (wife calming device) and an ETS EC 150. Now I'm toying with the idea of getting a router but am somewhat unsure what's the best option to consider. I was looking at the OF1010 or the MFK700.

Honestly, all I intend to use it for is the following:

1.  cutting slots to fit supports in
2.  bevelling edges
3.  cutting chamfers on edges

I am pretty sure the 1010 would do this but the truth is, I have no idea what copying ring works best with 1/4" bits and if I need a different base plate to run the router along the edge of a table or edge of a surface to cut a bevel or chamfer.

Like I said, newbie with limited knowledge but big dreams so please excuse me if these questions are overly basic.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and advice would be eagerly accepted.

Thank you!

 

[squall_line]

If you haven't watched any of the Festool Live episodes on the routers, that would be a great place to start.

Honestly, items 2 and 3 on your list say "MFK 700" to me, but the slots would depend on if they're through dadoes (one end of the piece to the other) or stopped dadoes (plunge needed).  OF 1010 is a pretty excellent router for all of the items you described.

That said, if most of your work is item 2 and 3, and most of the beveling and chamfering is using the same two bits/setups, you may be better off with a pair of less expensive Makita or other cordless trim router each with a bit set up the way you want it.

 

[woodferret]

"My first router" choice I would go with the Dewalt trim router kit that has both fixed base and plunge base.  I eventually ended up with a OF1010, but still use the DW611 for quick roundovers/chamfers like squall_line suggested.  The Dewalt plunge base has a lot of the same depth adjust features of the OF1010 (only missing microadjust) so you can get accustomed to plunge routers.  The OF1010 has slightly better ergonomics for me with its trigger, but it's not a dealbreaker.

 

[luvmytoolz]

+1 for the cheap trimmers for value and convenience. I have a bunch of Makita trimmers permanently set up with round over and chamfer bits, saves so much time and is incredibly convenient. I would recommend the OF1400 as your larger router, which will also allow you to use 1/2" cutters, but if you positively, never see yourself using larger cutters, the OF1010 is a bit more dexterous being slightly smaller and lighter, with a better handle grip which makes one handed use very easy.

I love the OF1400, it is a truly sensational router, but I think the handle design could have been improved to make it easier to grip and manoeuvre.

 

[ajm32]

Thanks for all the replies so far. The main reason I was considering the 1010EQB was I can get a very slightly used one for about $380 as the owner wants to upgrade to a 1400. The MFK700 would be new and here, it will cost the same as the used 1010.

Apologies, I should have mentioned this earlier.

I will also do as suggested and check out the cheaper options  but I am wondering if on a cost basis, I'd be missing out not getting that 1010.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Absolutely buy the 1010, that's a good price for a great router! You won't be disappointed with it.

 

[Cheese]

I'd not consider the 1400 to be an upgrade...it's just a different tool needed for a different application. Similar to a DF 500 vs DF 700, sometimes you just need both.

The 1010 is my favorite and I'd sell the 1400 before I'd sell the 1010. The 700 is a different animal completely and it's a niche product and not really mainstream for most router applications.

The 1010 will satisfy all 3 of those requirements while the 700 will satisfy 2 of those requirements.

 

[ChuckM]

Another vote for the 1010. Decent size, and excellent price (based on the figure you revealed). If you don't want it, please pass the seller's contact info. to me.

Just kidding. I have enough routers.

 

[luvmytoolz]

The only issue I see with the OF1010 is that it doesn't take 1/2" shank cutters. So if the OP only plans on buying one router ever, the OF1400 IMHO would be the better choice, unless he's also sure he'll never want to do panels, etc with larger cutters.

Although as stated before,the handling with the 1010 is better than the 1400 due to the weight and design.

I have the original OF900, and it's insanely useful being able to use it one handed, extremely comfortable handle grip. More difficult to do that with the 1400.

 

[squall_line]

Now that I see you have an offer for an OF 1010, at that price, please pull the trigger.  And if it includes a bunch of accessories (the 1010 is one of the most-accessorized tools in Festool's lineup), then please pull it even faster.

 

[ChuckM]

Get the 1010 as it's what is needed in most routing jobs. In the cases where a 1/2 router bit needs to be used, get a much cheaper non-Festool router for that. Truth be told, I don't know of any woodworker who doesn't have more than 2 routers.  [big grin]

P.S. I have a Bosch plunge router, but seldom use it with any 1/2 bits. Most routing is done with the trim router and Craftsman router that accept only the 1/4 bits.

 

[Cheese]

I used to be of the mind set that because I only owned 1/2" diameter router bits, I needed a router that accepted 1/2" router bits. That was 20+ years ago, when Milwaukee offered 3/8" collets (remember those odd balls?) and their routers did not offer plunge bases.

Well time moves ever forward and with the recent move towards solid carbide helical ground cutters, there are now better router bit offerings available than the old straight flute, braised, carbide segmented bits. They were the best offerings at the time but time has moved on. Besides, trying to see around one of those 1/2" router bits was usually a challenge.

Embrace the new 1/4" and 8 mm offerings and rely on the 1/2" router bits for what they're really needed for such as panel bits.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

None of the three applications you describe need a copy ring - these rings are only ever needed to guide the router around a template or similar. For chamfering or bevelling edges, all you need is a suitable bearing-guided chamfering bit like this;

[attachimg=1]

The bearing guides the router along the edge of the workpiece and the size/depth of bevel/chamfer is determined by how deep your plunge depth is set. Like this;

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

You can also use bearing-guided bits to mould all sorts of fancy edges along the workpiece. Slots are best cut using a 2-flute straight bit. To make sure your slots are at 90 degrees to the front edge of your workpiece, I’d strongly recommend that you also invest in a TSO GRS-16 guide rail square - an absolutely invaluable accessory for your rails. Use the device to clamp your rail at 90 degrees to the front edge of your workpiece, and then run your router along the rail. You’ll also find this square invaluable for use with your TS55 when breaking down sheet goods. Perfect square cuts every time.

The used 1010 will do everything you need - nothing else is necessary. Enjoy fulfilling those big dreams  [smile]

Kevin

 

[ajm32]

Hi squall_line, woodferret, luvmytoolz, ChuckS, Cheese and woodbutcherbower.

Thank you all for your replies, suggestions and helpful information. Very greatly appreciated!  Looks like the 1010 is going to be coming home with me very shortly and I’m looking forward to playing around with it and learning it's capabilities and my limitations. Thank goodness for FOG and its community.

Have a great weekend everyone and I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[Packard]

I use it to make templates or finished curves directly on the part.

First reported by Steve Rowe in 2007 (Other Tool Reviews):  Rowe’s review is more complete than mine.  Linked below.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tool-reviews/cmt-flexible-template-review/


It allows me to make one-off curved pieces, or to make templates for repeated curved pieces.

It works exactly as advertised.  You first draw the curve.  Then rough cut to within 1/4” to 1/8” of the line with a jig saw.  Then make the final trim with your router with a guided trim bit.

If most of the lines in your builds are straight and square, then an occasional curve softens the look a bit.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=79600]ajm32[/member] an excellent resource for router use would be the late Pat Warner. I would suggest the ROUTER BOOK as a starter course.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/Pat-W...ramIntegrated=true&shoppingPortalEnabled=true

Ron

 

[Michael Kellough]

Festool makes metric copy rings for the OF 1100. I have most of them but they almost never get used.

 

[NiteWalkerGR]

[member=79600]ajm32[/member] an excellent resource for router use would be the late Pat Warner. I would suggest the ROUTER BOOK as a starter course.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/Pat-W...ramIntegrated=true&shoppingPortalEnabled=true

Ron

+1 on Pat Warner's router book, with a few others I considered invaluable when learning: Woodworking with the Router and Router Magic by Bill Hylton, and The New Router Handbook by Pat Spielman.

 

[Packard]

I would add:

Routers are one of the safer machine tools in the shop.  Using a router in a router table is more dangerous. 

But alway treat routers with respect.  Though the spinning bits are largely inaccessible to your soft tissue parts, they can be dangerous.

I always allow the bit to stop spinning before lifting the router off the work piece.  Plunge routers are safer in that regard, but still, the bits stop spinning fairly quick, so I wait for that.

 

[ChuckM]

Do you have PBS programming?

This dad-son team has done lots of router projects:https://www.pbs.org/routerworkshop/index-2.html

They offer these tips on their own website:https://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html

I think along with Norm Abram's NYW, it got me to watch TV every Saturday morning.