Router Table CMS-GE vs CMS-VL

[WFCjr]

Looking to buy a router table. I know that both the CMS-GE and CMS-VL have been discontinued and both not easy to find.
Already have the MFT for a VL hook-up.

Is there a big difference between the quality and utility of the stand-alone GE vs the VL that requires attaching to an MFT table?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[peter halle]

One of the issue that drove me and other go the GE route versus the VL was for flexibility workflow. to remove your router table to quickly make a cut and then put it back on was a big consideration. I'd venture a guess that the GE outsold the VL by a large margin. Now that you are in the market, remember that you will need a Festool router from pre-2017 to work hassle free. To test, take your router without a bit and lay it on the floor. turn and lock it on. Unplug it. After it stops, plug it back in. If it runs it is good. If it doesn't start up it isn't what you want controlled by a switch on a router table.

Peter

 

[Cheese]

I also chose the GE for flexibility. It's its own nice collapsable/portable package. If I want to work outside I just pick up the GE and move it...no extra MFT that also has to be moved, besides I don't even own a Festool MFT.

 

[bwehman]

Gonna throw a wrench into your decision making - I had a GE for a couple years and it was definitely useful, but at the end of the day I just didn't find myself using router tables in general compared to the ease of bringing the router to the workpiece. I finally sold it this year and replaced it with TSO's MFT router table extension and it's been the ideal setup. I only needed a router table for small things a router couldn't ride on safely, so that perfectly fit the bill. I ended up getting a cordless DeWalt router to mount in it permanently, so the entire set up is flexible and all fits neatly in a SYS 5.

Oh one small thing to add - I could never get the sliding table to run square to the bit for whatever reason. You might have better luck, but that was kind of a niggly problem I kept having with it, to the point where I just removed that whole apparatus, which is a bummer because it's such a great feature.

 

[WFCjr]

One of the issue that drove me and other go the GE route versus the VL was for flexibility workflow. to remove your router table to quickly make a cut and then put it back on was a big consideration. I'd venture a guess that the GE outsold the VL by a large margin. Now that you are in the market, remember that you will need a Festool router from pre-2017 to work hassle free. To test, take your router without a bit and lay it on the floor. turn and lock it on. Unplug it. After it stops, plug it back in. If it runs it is good. If it doesn't start up it isn't what you want controlled by a switch on a router table.

Peter

Thanks for the tip. Just checked it and it starts right up after power interruption when locked on. Also checked serial # and date of manufacture looks to be 2015.

 

[peter halle]

Thanks for the tip. Just checked it and it starts right up after power interruption when locked on. Also checked serial # and date of manufacture looks to be 2015.

Great! Would hate to see you looking for a used router to boot.

Peter

 

[WastinTime]

Hey W, bwehman makes a great point. Identify what the usage is before buying something which will sit in a corner covered with sawdust and woodscraps. A portable unit may suffice.

 

[WFCjr]

Gonna throw a wrench into your decision making - I had a GE for a couple years and it was definitely useful, but at the end of the day I just didn't find myself using router tables in general compared to the ease of bringing the router to the workpiece. I finally sold it this year and replaced it with TSO's MFT router table extension and it's been the ideal setup. I only needed a router table for small things a router couldn't ride on safely, so that perfectly fit the bill. I ended up getting a cordless DeWalt router to mount in it permanently, so the entire set up is flexible and all fits neatly in a SYS 5.

Oh one small thing to add - I could never get the sliding table to run square to the bit for whatever reason. You might have better luck, but that was kind of a niggly problem I keep having with it, to the point where I just removed that whole apparatus, which is a bummer because it's such a great feature.

Thanks for the response... but I am a bit confused...
The TSO MFT router table extension is designed to fit the Festool MFT, but TSO's list of compatible routers does not list the Festool router.
What am I missing?

 

[peter halle]

It is only sized for trim routers.

 

[WFCjr]

It is only sized for trim routers.

thanks,.., any idea if it fits most trim routers, or only the 6 listed on the TSO site?

 

[Coen]

The CMS-VL requires setting up the MFT/3 to use it. So no small stand alone router table. It's increased depth can be useful. I have the GE. If I had unlimited money and space I would have both. Or maybe neither

Oh one small thing to add - I could never get the sliding table to run square to the bit for whatever reason. You might have better luck, but that was kind of a niggly problem I keep having with it, to the point where I just removed that whole apparatus, which is a bummer because it's such a great feature.

Yeah mine ends up giving arches too depending on how I press it during the cut. But for thin stock that doesn't matter. And when using something as parallel guide it doesn't matter either.

 

[bwehman]

Thanks for the response... but I am a bit confused...
The TSO MFT router table extension is designed to fit the Festool MFT, but TSO's list of compatible routers does not list the Festool router.
What am I missing?

Right, just trim routers. So I already had a couple dewalt batteries, so ended up getting this to just dedicate to the role. It’s just a 1/4” collet but that’s more than enough for the small things I find a router table useful for.

 

[PaulMarcel]

When I got the CMS-GE, I had plans of making other inserts. It's just an aluminum plate and you can copy the geometry from the router plate for the tabs and rounded corners. That was back then before Origin. With Origin, it would be pretty easy to make a pattern to make a blank and cut it with carbide bits. Before Origin, more effort, which I didn't go through.

As an example, the first plate I intended to make was for the oscillating spindle/belt sander (the Ridgid one). Remove its table, countersink holes in the template to match those on the table and cut out the oblong shape for the belt. Would have excellent dust collection and the miter gauge/slider would be helpful.

As for which router, I used it with the OF-2200. It's just an aluminum plate with an opening for insert rings. You could take most any router and mount it in there. For example, my Bosch 1617 that's in my table saw extension router table could easily go in the CMS. It attaches to the router plate using the holes in the 'fixed base' of the router. Drill and countersink those holes centered on the insert and you can leave the router there permanently. Bit changes would be above table with some offset wrenches.

 

[WillettBarrel]

Gonna throw a wrench into your decision making - I had a GE for a couple years and it was definitely useful, but at the end of the day I just didn't find myself using router tables in general compared to the ease of bringing the router to the workpiece. I finally sold it this year and replaced it with TSO's MFT router table extension and it's been the ideal setup. I only needed a router table for small things a router couldn't ride on safely, so that perfectly fit the bill. I ended up getting a cordless DeWalt router to mount in it permanently, so the entire set up is flexible and all fits neatly in a SYS 5.

Oh one small thing to add - I could never get the sliding table to run square to the bit for whatever reason. You might have better luck, but that was kind of a niggly problem I kept having with it, to the point where I just removed that whole apparatus, which is a bummer because it's such a great feature.

I've not noticed anything out of square/parrallel when I've had my slider set up. Doesn't mean it's not happening! Only that I haven't thought to check. What are you seeing as the cause? Is it getting the thumb screws on with even pressure?