Router table

[VW mick]

Hi keeping up the project posts

This is a router table I have been building

Not finished yet .A few things to do [attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4][attachimg=5][attachimg=6]

I have to make a fence
Fit the lift
Fit the drawers
Sort out the extraction

The two drawers in the last photo are for the router bits and accessorys one for 1/4 and one for 1/2 (there is a little space for 8mm I don't know the imperial for that)

Mick

 

[Svar]

What are those green sheets? MDF?

 

[VW mick]

Yes mate that's Moisture resistant MDF

this type is made by medite in the U.K.

Mick

 

[Roseland]

Very nice.

If you haven’t already got the lift, get yourself a Triton Router and save the cost.  They have through the table height adjustment and the spindle locks when you raise the Router to change the bit.

I made a similar cabinet with two small changes:

I made the bottom of box the router sits in sloped to a V and have extraction from the bottom.  The suction keeps the door on the front shut.

The other change was to put two drawer runners under the top, front to back.  My fence connects to them, and it keeps the fence always parallel to the T track on the top.

Andrew

 

[ear3]

+1 on the Triton if you're still deciding on which router.

Question -- when you set the MFS to the exact size of the router plate, did you end up just working with a bottom bearing flush trim bit to excavate the place where the panel will sit?  No worries about inadvertent contact b/w the router cutters and the extrusion?  I've always used a template for safety and have never tried to work with the bearing directly on the extrusions, but maybe it's not as risky as I imagine?

 

[VW mick]

I already have a porter cable 7518 ready to go in

I've got all the parts to make my own lift
so we will see how it works out

I could buy one but I've an idea

I will keep you posted

Mick

 

[VW mick]

Also I haven't sorted out the extraction inside the cabinet but there will be funnel of some sot at the bottom

Also [member=37411]ear3[/member]

I did use the MFS as pictured with a top bearing router cutter but it really was a pain to try and set the depth and mis the slot in the rail. Also you could easily damage the rail

For the second cut I used the 30mm guide bush which is a lot better with no chance of catching the rail

I had only used the MFS twice when I did that

Mick

 

[ear3]

I see.  Thanks.

Also I haven't sorted out the extraction inside the cabinet but there will be funnel of some sot at the bottom

Also [member=37411]ear3[/member]

I did use the MFS as pictured with a top bearing router cutter but it really was a pain to try and set the depth and mis the slot in the rail. Also you could easily damage the rail

For the second cut I used the 30mm guide bush which is a lot better with no chance of catching the rail

I had only used the MFS twice when I did that

Mick

 

[rst]

I've been using a 7518 for the last 20+ years mounted in a Bench Dog iron lift.  Coupled with the Keen Router Table Dust collection kit and Incra wonder fence works perfectly...minimal dust and chips below the table.  woodworkingshop.com/product/kp10001

 

[Holmz]

I've been using a 7518 for the last 20+ years mounted in a Bench Dog iron lift.  Coupled with the Keen Router Table Dust collection kit and Incra wonder fence works perfectly...minimal dust and chips below the table.  woodworkingshop.com/product/kp10001

Good luck with that, it surely will not last more than 50 years.  [big grin]

 

[Cheese]

For the second cut I used the 30mm guide bush which is a lot better with no chance of catching the rail

I also use guide bushings exclusively when using the MFS. That's particularly important now, as the MFS is no longer available.

 

[Getmaverick]

Strange having the green tone. Here in the states we have Medex, which is moisture resistant MDF that has no formaldehyde.
It still looks like MDF though.