Router tables

Janmara1

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2014
Messages
97
Is there any recommendations as to a router table that can be used with the 1010 or 1400.  Frankly the festool table is extremely expensive and while I am certain the best it's way beyond my budget
Therefore I am looking at the possibility of using a basic table or one that I can make or adapt to these routers
 
I bought the Kreg table and fence and like them very much. My package deal from Woodcraft included a Porter Cable motor and a router lift. I wanted to save my 1400 for free hand work.

I would guess that the 1400 could be mounted on the phenolic plate that comes with the router table. You might have to drill the mounting holes and find the correct threaded screws, but that should not be a big problem.

Woodcraft had a neat dust collection box that fits around whatever router you mount under the table. I had already built a dust collection system for my setup so I didn't buy the Woodcraft box. If I were to start over, I'd have bought the Woodcraft box.

Whatever you decide to do, plan well for the dust collection system. Routers throw off huge amounts of debris.
 
Most tables can be re drilled to accept any router base plate. Or you could make your own table with a router plate insert and again drill the holes to match the required router.  [smile]
 
If you don't want to spend the money to buy the CMS buy just the lift mechanism and handle as spare parts and they are easy to fit to any router table.
 
I made a router table out of a 16 in I-joist.  I do a lot of longer routing jobs.  I made it 8ft long, added a bench dog fence and router plate.  I like haveing 4ft of infeed and outfeed.  Router tables are really easy to make.  You can make  any size you want and theres a lot of aftermarket  company's  that offer parts to make your own thats awesome for a good price.
 
Tyler Ernsberger said:
I made a router table out of a 16 in I-joist.  I do a lot of longer routing jobs.  I made it 8ft long, added a bench dog fence and router plate.  I like haveing 4ft of infeed and outfeed.  Router tables are really easy to make.  You can make  any size you want and theres a lot of aftermarket  company's  that offer parts to make your own thats awesome for a good price.

Wow!
Are you originally from Texas?
 
As you already noticed the Festool CMS is designed for the Festool routers.  Other router tables and inserts will require drilling for the mounting and then any lift functions will have to be customized.

If you look for other tables make sure that you take into account all the bits and pieces.  You might find that the costs are greater than you initially thought and the CMS might come closer in comparison.

Peter
 
There are numerous options on the market, either for a top, or complete with stand, etc.  Kreg, Rockler, Incra, and so on all make tops that you can easily couple with your customer build table or cabinet. 

I built my first router cabinet many, many years ago, it was a Nick Engler "Lifting Table Top" design that allowed the table top to be lifted on front to have easy access to the router.  Fast forward a number of years, the table became an enclosed cabinet making dust/chip extraction outstanding.  New router plates and routers allowed for above table adjustments and router bit changes, did that.  At one time, the router table/cabinet was one of the first builds people did for their shops.  If you want to build your own router cabinet, many have copied/used the plans from Norm of the New Yankee Workshop.

I also purchased an Incra router system.  Love it.  Between my two router tables, I'm pretty much covered, and dust extraction on both or great (I use both my 4" dust collection for the cabinet and 2-1/2" shop vac connection on the fence).

Unless you need portability, I think building your own cabinet/table and getting something like the Incra top and fence hard to beat.  To me, it was more cost effective and offered more precision than I would have found with the Festool offer.

I would agree with what many stated above, buy or build you own, use some of the extra money to buy an outstanding fence along with the PC718 or 890 router, and keep your 1400 available for hand use.

Gary
 
If you decide to build your own router table, I'd suggest starting off buying the top and drop in phenolic plate rather than building that part. The test of the router table isn't as touchy to build. My top has built in tracks and I find them very useful. Buying an excellent fence with a micro and macro adjustment is a good idea.

I have 3 power switches on my router table. One on the router. One on the table. And, a foot operated switch. If something goes wrong, I can jump back and the power to the router is cut.

I like a number of features on the CMS. If I had to have a mobile router table, I'd buy the CMS. I really like the sliding table and the dust collection on the CMS. I prefer the large table surface, solidness, and sophisticated fence on my table.
 
How religious are you about the Festool branding?

A router table is a remarkably simple device that, as long as certain functional criteria are met, could just as well be made from am old washing machine motor and a plank or two. Okay, the additional requirements, few as they may be, are quite stringent. A collet with effectively zero play, some sort of height adjustment, speed control and an adjustable fence.

The CMS solution is certainly elegant and quite easy to use - the height adjustment is superb, for example, and it has that lickable tool-porn shiny-shiny sexiness that Festool does SO well, but if you're on a budget, you can get astonishing bangs for your bucks if you're willing to think outside the box.

I picked up one of these -
41xLOVB51UL._SX425_.jpg


from Toolsave in West Bromwich actually but it's just a different badge - as an everyday jobber machine for occasions when beating a path to the Incra rig is too much trouble.

In fact I was astonished at how good the thing was (is). It's an all-in unit, with the router motor built in so it keeps your OF**** free for other use. It has a built-in lift which has a little backlash of course but that simply means if you overshoot your height setting you simply need to back off and take another bite which is recommended with even the very best, expensive lifts anyway.. It's still infinitely better than the height adjustment of most routers bolted into an insert plate. Front adjusting wheel, too, so no need to crawl under anything.

Loads of up-plunge and the collet comes right up above the table for spannering. The spindle lock is underneath and is simply a feel-for-it pull-tab pressing which is very accessible and easy to use.

The fence is basic but sturdy, with movable/removable front faces. They lack the calibrated offset outfeed fence of the Festool and Incra for jointing, but it's a ten second job to shim the outfeed fence with a piece of card or similar to get exactly the same result. The plastic fence can be replaced with MDF so it can be closed up OVER the bit for true zero-clearance, if that's what you want.

It has feather-boards and a very Festool-like bit-enclosing guard system, all included. 1/4" and 1/2" collets as standard, amazingly and it's even got a reasonable miter gauge; not exactly a sliding table but hey, look at the price.

Dust clearing from the back of the fence is pretty good. I taped a Bosch adapter to the fence spigot and the Festool hose just plugs in. No under-table extraction but enclosing it and putting a port on it would be simple of you thought it necessary - lust remember to make a door to get to the spindle-lock.

The big Issue: Performance?

As good as anything else, really, for light to trade use.

The parts that need to be square ARE square, the adjustment is all there, the motor is adequate if a tad noisy - but not as noisy as my DC, so not an issue for me.

I dare say if it were being used constantly all day everyday in a production environment turning out endless gibbet spindles or whatever it might not be as good as a heavier-duty machine, but for most of us, particularly those of us who are more than Festool trophy collectors, it is perfectly, amazingly adequate.

I'm sure the same thing is available to the left of the pond, probably far more cheaply than over the old country side but over here it's findable for around  220 of your rebel colony's dollars.
Amazon UK item
The money you don't spend on the difference could go quite a way towards paying for some other green-badged kit where the extra Festoolianicity is more justifiable.

Just a thought.

Warning - while you were typing 3 new replies have been posted. You may wish to review your post.
Nah - I'll live dangerously.  ;) ;)
 
First off, I own all four of Festools routers. I love them, and they each have a niche for which they excel.

Unfortunately, a router table installation other than possibly the CMS is NOT one of them in my opinion.  The lifts and tables are simply not designed to make using the Festools really functional. And I say this as one of Festool's most avid fanboys! [embarassed]

If you want a dedicated router table other than the CMS, and don't want to build one from scratch....may I suggest the Incra tables which are on par with Festool quality, and can be purchased with the stand, or just separately. Follow on with a Jessum Mast-R-Lift II or the Jessum-made Incra lift, along with Incra's superb dust-collection under-table box and a router like the Porter Cable 7518, and you have a REAL router table system. Finally, add the Incra Wonder Fence system with the table and you will have an unparalled system that will handle everything except the largest shaper bits! [big grin]

A router table system is much easier to work with if you have a near-permanently mounted router in it. The Festool routers aren't designed to be removed from the incorporated plunge system, and make it extremely difficult to work with in a non-CMS table. My PC 7518 hasn't seen the daylight in five years, as it resides under my table, but it is powerful, and has never let me down.

Just my own  [2cents]

Cheers,
Frank
 
Ideally you want a way to raise the router and change the bit above the table, which you would not be able to do with the OF1400 mounted to the insert on another system.

I opted to get the Triton router for my Kreg table -- not only is it a beast, and relatively affordable for what you get, it also has above the table adjustment capability, thus no need for an expensive router lift.  I think Bosch makes one with above the table adjustment as well.
 
I also have the Triton mounted in my Woodpeckers table. Very happy with this combo. I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Incra if given the chance.
 
Do a search of u tube or holtzwerken TV under the name of Guido Henn and he shows a home made router table with a 2200 mounted.

Be aware that it's in German but easy to follow
 
I did lots of looking and decided to build my own table. The router, fence system and the dovetail jig came from Craigslist and cost about $400 the materials for the cabinet were about $250.

Top is 34 1/2 x 48 and should work well for Jointech or Incra systems. My dovetail jig will be attached to the T Track on the back end. Router is a Porter able 7539 with a Router Raizer and a quick change chuck. Next up is building the drawers and the dust collector fittings.

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barnumb said:
I did lots of looking and decided to build my own table. The router, fence system and the dovetail jig came from Craigslist and cost about $400 the materials for the cabinet were about $250.

Top is 34 1/2 x 48 and should work well for Jointech or Incra systems. My dovetail jig will be attached to the T Track on the back end. Router is a Porter able 7539 with a Router Raizer and a quick change chuck. Next up is building the drawers and the dust collector fittings.

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Nice Uni. I have a '52.
 
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