Router w/ plate in MFT?

[clutzer]

Hello everyone, brand new member here and to the festool community all together.

I did some light searching of this forum for threads on mounting a router plate into the MFT (I have the MFT/3).  There doesn't seem to be anything readily popping up.  So, I threw together a quick concept of what I'd like to do in SketchUp (image attached).  Is there anything that immediately jumps out at people?

Note 1: I'm simultaneously considering the plate on the opposite side of the table from the track-saw rail so it doesn't interfere with the router--the caveat is that the Incra fence would have to be removed to do cross cuts as opposed to just lowering the router bit.

Note 2: The kerf line might be a little close to the miter rail, but I haven't dimensioned this out on my table yet--this is just a rough concept I'd like to get opinions on--mostly why this doesn't seem to be a popular mod for the MFT/3.

 

[Bohdan]

Mine is a MFT1080 with an Incra LS17 mounted on a base which is on dogs so that the Incra can be easily removed and relocated.

I mounted my router near the middle but I think a better location would have been on the left away from the saw cut. Also arrange the router cutter to be in line with the fence mounting hardware to give you maximum rigidity.

The dog mounted fence lifts off easily and can be located on any side of the router which makes the arrangement very versatile.

Not sure if the Tee slot is practical as you would have to remove most of the table material to fit it and I think this will weaken the table a lot.

 

[SMJoinery]

Hi

I considered a similar project but decided to go the CMS way.
My main points of concern were deflection in the table with router mounted, constant removal to use mft for breaking down sheets and accuracy and repeatability of cuts due to fence.
I guess my system of work caused me to decide on a separate router system due to the above.
Have you considered the VL?

 

[Bohdan]

I forgot to mention that I also had to reinforce the table to get rid of the sag.

I used a pair of 40mm RHS under the table with adjustable bolts to trim the sag caused by the weight of the router.

 

[clutzer]

Mine is a MFT1080 with an Incra LS17 mounted on a base which is on dogs so that the Incra can be easily removed and relocated.

This is a great idea!  I took a close look at the LS17 and it seems like Qwas rail dogs would slide right into the T-track on the bottom of the LS17 housing.  Would you agree?

I mounted my router near the middle but I think a better location would have been on the left away from the saw cut. Also arrange the router cutter to be in line with the fence mounting hardware to give you maximum rigidity.

The dog mounted fence lifts off easily and can be located on any side of the router which makes the arrangement very versatile.

Not sure if the Tee slot is practical as you would have to remove most of the table material to fit it and I think this will weaken the table a lot.

Agreed.  The table is 19mm thick and the miter channel is 1/2" (~13mm) so I would definitely need some under-table reinforcement.  My intention was to create my own MFT top using the LR-32 technique so I don't mess up my brand new one, and subsequently put some reinforcing strips on the bottom.  Perhaps some L-channel aluminum or steel?

 

[clutzer]

Hi

I considered a similar project but decided to go the CMS way.
My main points of concern were deflection in the table with router mounted, constant removal to use mft for breaking down sheets and accuracy and repeatability of cuts due to fence.
I guess my system of work caused me to decide on a separate router system due to the above.
Have you considered the VL?

Thanks for the feedback.  I have considered the VL, but with a plunge router that drops out of the way (OF 1400) it seems to me to be fairly efficient to have it in the MFT field as opposed to outside of it.  With Bohdan's idea of a dog-mounted-fence it seems extremely quick to pull the fence, drop the router, then you're back to a flat field suitable for TS cutting.

 

[roblg3]

The reason I made a removable add-on to the side similar to the hang off cms is that putting a router in the mft reduces some of the functionality of the mft itself.  There would be many situations that I would want to use the holes that are now occupied by the router.

 

[Bohdan]

Mine is a MFT1080 with an Incra LS17 mounted on a base which is on dogs so that the Incra can be easily removed and relocated.

This is a great idea!  I took a close look at the LS17 and it seems like Qwas rail dogs would slide right into the T-track on the bottom of the LS17 housing.  Would you agree?

I mounted my router near the middle but I think a better location would have been on the left away from the saw cut. Also arrange the router cutter to be in line with the fence mounting hardware to give you maximum rigidity.

The dog mounted fence lifts off easily and can be located on any side of the router which makes the arrangement very versatile.

Not sure if the Tee slot is practical as you would have to remove most of the table material to fit it and I think this will weaken the table a lot.

Agreed.  The table is 19mm thick and the miter channel is 1/2" (~13mm) so I would definitely need some under-table reinforcement.  My intention was to create my own MFT top using the LR-32 technique so I don't mess up my brand new one, and subsequently put some reinforcing strips on the bottom.  Perhaps some L-channel aluminum or steel?

That's exactly how I did it except that I machined my own dogs using 20mm aluminium round bar.

I am also using the LR32 to make an 8' x 4' holey bench. Picked up the ply today.

With the full LS17 you may not need the slot as you can slide along the top of the fence and if you want to use finger boards you clamp with dogs.

 

[Bohdan]

The reason I made a removable add-on to the side similar to the hang off cms is that putting a router in the mft reduces some of the functionality of the mft itself.  There would be many situations that I would want to use the holes that are now occupied by the router.

I agree that the lose of the holes is occasionally frustrating, especially during assembly work. that is why I am now making a second collapsible holey bench.

 

[clutzer]

The reason I made a removable add-on to the side similar to the hang off cms is that putting a router in the mft reduces some of the functionality of the mft itself.  There would be many situations that I would want to use the holes that are now occupied by the router.

I agree that the lose of the holes is occasionally frustrating, especially during assembly work. that is why I am now making a second collapsible holey bench.

Hmmm, this is why I placed the plate where I did: under the cross cut rail so that the loss of "effective holes" would be minimized--during a cutting situation anyway...

 

[weekendwarrior]

I have considered this several times since I already have a Triton router on an Incra plate w/ CleanSweep rings.  I'm leaning towards fabricating my own MFT extension wing for it.

The Precision Dogs Precision Plate is the easiest way to attach the LS positioner to the MFT.

Also, FYI, Incra also offers a gold combination miter/t-slot channel as an option... but you only get it if you ask on the phone.  [wink]

Nice Sketchup, Clutzer!

 

[weekendwarrior]

And a belated [welcome] to the FOG!

 

[Grasshopper]

I'd either spring for the vl, or simply make a purpose-built router table that is independant of the MFT.

You'd be diminishing the use of the MFT and a lot of work to do so in my opinion. Apply that effort with building your own VL solution to the side of the MFT And gain a slick outfeed table is what I say.

 

[NEW2FES]

I had simply drilled a 2 1/2? hole in between 4 holes in the MFT and mounted my router directly to the table. I had a Bosch with above adjustment and due to the thickness I used an extension with some of the bits but of you used a Triton you would be good to go. I also simply made a fence that went right on the MFT angle fence so it moved fore and aft.

I built 3 kitchens and about 5 vanities with that set up without an issue. I have never had any sag or other issues. Lower the router put in a plug and you never even know it is there. I have never seen the need for all the high dollar ultra trick fences.

Good luck

 

[Gary in Texas]

I would consider either the add on side piece as roblg3 did, or make a separate top/stand.  I wouldn't want to lose the holes and the capability they offer as part of the MFT/3, among other reasons.... 

I didn't notice you mentioning where you planned to use this MFT/router combo?  Will it be on site, or will you mainly be in your workshop/garage.  If the latter, I suggest you consider making your on router stand and top, or purchase one of the readily available tops on the market.

 

[roblg3]

Heres a photo of what I did.  I cut a rabbet in the router table so it could butt against the MFT surface and screwed a 2X2 to the bottom which I drilled to put  T bolts and a clamping knob on the other side to tighten the table up to the rails of the mft.  Then added a telescoping leg to the bottom (left hand side) to be able to plane the phelonic router top with the mft.  I'm actually using an OF2000 router in it now.  I didn't like the fence on the cms.  I can use the incra positioner with wonder fence as a box/dovetail joint jig.  Its also a repeatable easy set up table saw fence with a drop in for a saw instead of the router.  The positioner is on  a precision plate so it's less than 5 minute set up to put the positioner and router/table saw set up in place.  This isn't an original idea.  There's several threads showing several other very similar set ups on this board.  Maybe this helps? 

 

[Francis_Beland]

I had simply drilled a 2 1/2? hole in between 4 holes in the MFT and mounted my router directly to the table. I had a Bosch with above adjustment and due to the thickness I used an extension with some of the bits but of you used a Triton you would be good to go. I also simply made a fence that went right on the MFT angle fence so it moved fore and aft.

I built 3 kitchens and about 5 vanities with that set up without an issue. I have never had any sag or other issues. Lower the router put in a plug and you never even know it is there. I have never seen the need for all the high dollar ultra trick fences.

Good luck

Can you post a picture of your setup please? I'm interested to do the same thing. I currently have a plate mounted on my current bench but if I can put it on my future diy MFT, I would be able to get rid of my old one.

Thank you

Francis

 

[weekendwarrior]

Mine is a MFT1080 with an Incra LS17 mounted on a base which is on dogs so that the Incra can be easily removed and relocated.

I mounted my router near the middle but I think a better location would have been on the left away from the saw cut. Also arrange the router cutter to be in line with the fence mounting hardware to give you maximum rigidity.

The dog mounted fence lifts off easily and can be located on any side of the router which makes the arrangement very versatile.

Not sure if the Tee slot is practical as you would have to remove most of the table material to fit it and I think this will weaken the table a lot.

I was thinking the opposite: would installation of the t-slot strengthen the table?

 

[clutzer]

And a belated [welcome] to the FOG!

Thanks and thanks.

 

[clutzer]

To all: thank you for the great feedback and comments.  I have to say already that this is one excellent forum.  It reminds me of the Hummer Mailing List (HML) forum: really great people with a lot of interesting things to say.

Anyway, I think I'm now leaning towards an extension to the MFT into which I'll mount my router.  Which has me now looking at extruded aluminum from 80/20 and Misumi.  I've seen a lot of great projects using 8020 on this site so this should keep me busy for quite a few nights planning out a build.