Routers and Guiderails

[ADKMedic]

Hello!

I already own a TS55 and guide rail.  The first time I used the TS55 I cut/trimmed the splinterguard so it is a true representation of the cut line (just like the directions tell you to).

My question has to do with using a router with the guide rail...  Is the splinterguard tool-specific???  In other words, is the cut that is on the splinterguard also be the routing line if I were to use a router with the guide rail?  Or would I need to keep guide rails for the TS55 separate from a guide rail for the router???

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Andy

 

[VictorL]

you just have to keep router bits away from splinterguard. Splinterguard is just for TS saws only. All other tools use rail just as straight guide.

Good luck!
VictorL

 

[FestFan]

Andy,

You can use the same guide rail for your TS 55 for any Festool router. You'll need to have a guide to go along with it though. I have an OF 1010 and use this guide for it. Don't know about the OF 1400 and 2200. I'd also recommend a fine adjustment with this. It is not necessary, but quite handy.

You're not supposed to use the splinter guard (it is even sawblade specific toyour TS 55) with a router.

 

[fdengel]

While the idea of the router lining up the cut to the splinterguard is certainly appealing, it is also highly impractical, considering the various widths and profiles of router bits -- no way for a router to adjust to all the different possibilities and precisely line up to that edge...

 

[mouppe]

You can use the guide rail with a router- in fact there are specific attachments to enable you to do just that. But you want to keep the router well away from the guard. It is only useful in conjunction with the TS55 or TS75.

The guide rail attachment for the OF1400 for example, enables the router to be moved closer and further from the guide rail, until it is in the place you want it. Then you run it along the guide rail as with the saws.

I would check out youtube of festool usa for some good videos, or here on the FOG of course!

 

[tbellemare]

I have an OF 1010 and use this guide for it. Don't know about the OF 1400 and 2200. I'd also recommend a fine adjustment with this. It is not necessary, but quite handy.

The Guide Stop for the OF 1400 and OF 2200 come with the fine adjustment.

You set the distance from the Guide Rail coarsely by sliding the router down the rods, which are attached to the Guide Stop and Router. Then you use the micro-adjustment wheel to fine tune that distance.

Tom

[attachimg=#1]

 

[ADKMedic]

OK...  I'm confused...  [unsure]

It appears that I have a different (inaccurate???) understanding of what the guide rail can do for me with a router...  Is it used only as a "straightedge"?  Can I use the guide rail to line up my rout "line"... 

In other words, let's say I was building a shelf and wanted to rout some dados.  How would you line things up so that the router is cutting exactly where you want?

Thanks in advance for helping this poor newbie.  [scared]

Andy

 

[peter halle]

The routers have a centerline mark on all 4 sides of the bases.  If you line these up with the centerline of your cuts, your will find it to  be more accurate that to the edge of the cut.

Peter

 

[Bob Marino]

OK...  I'm confused...  [unsure]

It appears that I have a different (inaccurate???) understanding of what the guide rail can do for me with a router...  Is it used only as a "straightedge"?  Can I use the guide rail to line up my rout "line"... 

In other words, let's say I was building a shelf and wanted to rout some dados.  How would you line things up so that the router is cutting exactly where you want?

Thanks in advance for helping this poor newbie.   [scared]

Andy

The router, when attached to the guide rail - with the "guide stop", allows you to  make a totally straight and supported cut/rout, without having to worry about the router trying to veer off.
On the front base of the router you will see a "line/indentation" - that is what you use to establish the center of your cut. So, for example, say you were making a 1/2" wide dado, using the router's line/indentation, measuring 1/4" to each side of the indentation will show you the (1/2") width of your dado.

Bob

 

[tbellemare]

You would have to set the guide rail offset from and parallel to your intended dado. Set the router up with the Guide Stop and use the coarse adjustment, sliding along the rods, to get the mark Bob and Peter talked about close to the center of your desired dado. Then use the micro-adjuster (green knob in image above) to get it dialed in exactly where you want it.

Tom

 

[Jesse Cloud]

If you are building a cabinet or bookcase with a shelf, and are routing dadoes for the shelf, use a cool Jerry Work trick:

Put the two shelves together, back-to-back, and the guide rail on top.  Be sure the rail is parallel to the bottom/top of the sides and then route both shelves at the same time.

An easy way to be sure the dadoes are exactly the same on both sides.

Another 'best practice' is to use a pair of limit stops to control the start and stop of the router movement - that way, all your dadoes will be the same length.

 

[Sparktrician]

If you are building a cabinet or bookcase with a shelf, and are routing dadoes for the shelf, use a cool Jerry Work trick:

Put the two shelves together, back-to-back, and the guide rail on top.  Be sure the rail is parallel to the bottom/top of the sides and then route both shelves at the same time.

An easy way to be sure the dadoes are exactly the same on both sides.

Another 'best practice' is to use a pair of limit stops to control the start and stop of the router movement - that way, all your dadoes will be the same length.

Jesse,  didn't you mean "sides"? 

[eek]

 

[John Stevens]

It appears that I have a different (inaccurate???) understanding of what the guide rail can do for me with a router...  Is it used only as a "straightedge"?  Can I use the guide rail to line up my rout "line"...

Hi, Andy.  I sometimes line up the inside edge of the cutter with the splinter guard.  It's not hard to put it within 0.5mm and still have it not eat away at the splinter guard.  That way you know exactly where to put the guide for your groove or dado.  Another cool tip I read (way back when this forum was a Yahoo group!) is to clamp a piece of scrap (same thickness as the work piece) to the MFT at each end of the router's travel on the rail.  You'll rout into the scrap at each end, and the groove you leave in your scrap shows you where to line up the next piece.

As for the tip by Jerry Work (he calls it "mirroring" or some such), it works as long as the dadoes are perpendicular to the edges, but make sure you line up the pieces precisely, because any deviation from perpendicular will be doubled across the diagonals when you assemble your carcase.

Finally, there are some of us here who think that the rail just doesn't work well compared to more traditional dado jigs that support the router on both sides:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-router-jig/msg60466/#msg60466

Regards,

John