Routing channels on 2x4's

Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Messages
57
Hi all,

I'm in the middle of a workbench build(Asa Christian's basic bench from fww). And it called out for making a 3/8" deep channel on two sides of the 2x4". I used the of1400 with the edge guide and I claimed down the material using 2 quick release clamps. I also used the mft3 for a straight edge and festool bench dogs. This to sounded like a good way to keep the piece from moving.

Well, the edge guide couldn't go all the way to the top of the piece with the clamp and the edge guide also couldn't go over the bench dog. I ended up clamping one side at a time while i worked down the piece, pausing when I reached the end and unclamping one side and clamping the other in order to finish.

I "learned" a lot today. Mostly that clamping low profile material and using the edge guide is really hard. My channels are nowhere near being a straight line but they are functional and thankfully they will face the inside of the bench so noe one needs to know.(just whoever reads this and me.  [big grin]

Is there a better way to have done this?  Sorry for the lack of pics.
 
I've seen people use a second edge guide on the other side of the guide rails, so the piece gets sandwiched between the two edge guides. This looks a great way of keeping the bit center on the work. At some point I want to get another edge guide to try it.
 
You can see above technique in Guido Henn's video on building the Roubo workbench. Can't lookup the link on my mobile, but it was active a couple of weeks ago. Also there was the point of using an undersized router bit and routing in two passes to get centering of the slot (I think).

In the comments of that thread Guido also gives you pointers where to acquire the longer than normal fence rods.
 
I would have used the table saw with a dado blade. I personally only use the router for anything a table saw will not do. And then I prefer it in a router table. I have a nice table saw though and I do not have a 2200.

I think you have done just fine. There are many ways to accomplish the same task. It really just depends on what tools you have and also what you are comfortable doing. Sometimes there is a joy when you can accomplish a task with the things you have. Hope your bench goes well.

Kevin
 
I once did this by drilling a hole into a piece of wood on a 30 degree angle and tapping a chisel into the hole with a rubber mallet to create a router plane. If you take off 1/16" at a time you can get very nice grooves and have a pleasurable experience.
 
Route the channel in a longer 2x4 and cut to length after, now there will be plenty of room for the clamps
 
Use a non-slip mat or rubberized shelf liner or 2 under the stock to hold it still.

Use additional 2x4s on edges and clamp or screw together to hold router base level. 

Or use 2x8 and clamp rail to the 2x8.
 
These are all good suggestions.  As I'm Just starting out(its in the name) my types of tools are limited, that's why i didn't use a router table or a table saw(i have neither).  I thought about doing the one large 2x4 but i had already cut the 2x4's after that epiphany.  I was stoked to be using the ts55 to really think it through i guess.  I also ended up using two boards to keep the router level.  The non slip mat is something I should have thought of.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
just realized i had said i was using the of2200 actually i was using the 1400.  sorry(dreaming about new festools)
.
 
juststartingout said:
just realized i had said i was using the of2200 actually i was using the 1400.  sorry(dreaming about new festools)
.

Hi,

Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

    You could also make that channel with the TS55 in several passes.

Seth
 
juststartingout said:
These are all good suggestions.  As I'm Just starting out(its in the name) my types of tools are limited, that's why i didn't use a router table or a table saw(i have neither).  I thought about doing the one large 2x4 but i had already cut the 2x4's after that epiphany.  I was stoked to be using the ts55 to really think it through i guess.  I also ended up using two boards to keep the router level.  The non slip mat is something I should have thought of.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Live and learn. That is the name of the game. Welcome aboard the FOG and take all of your "whoops" moments as learning experiences. We have all been there!

1400 with an edge guide should be fine since it is all you have (no CMS or table). I would have also suggested the longer 2x4 then cut after routing. I also would route it out in multiple depths. 2 or 3 passes depending on depth of cut needed.
 
+1 for using two edge guides and multiple shallow passes as it gives greater control especially as you are effectively climb cutting on edge whenever you route a rebate
 
I use my table saw and my Forrest Dado stack to cut those slots in less than a minute.

Jack
 
The Clamping Elements are a low profile way to grip the 2x4 from the sides and hold them fast to the MFT top, rather than using the vertical clamps.  The edge guide should pass over them.
 
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